Day 109- Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compestela - 20 kms - Wed 10/9
A nice early start for the final leg of my journey. I leave at 7 without breakfast but I know it is available not far down the track. I walk with a girl from Denmark and there are other pilgrims ahead and behind as we come to the forest. Which way to go? 3 paths & no signs but I have done this before so we have a laugh and follow a very pale indistinct yellow arrow along a forest track. Head torches creating dancing lights as we tramp, tramp, tramp beneath the eucalypts. Down and alongside a road then thru a tunnel and into the bright courtyard of the hotel at Amenal. Breakfast of toast, coffee & fresh OJ. Then it's up the hill, more eucalypts, past the airport runway where we drop down under the landing lights before climbing again to San Payo. It is a misty morning and we get a few spits of rain coming into Lavacolla, where I get a coffee. In years past this was the traditional washing place for pilgrims to get clean before entering Samtiago. Then a few more ups & downs as the long stream of pilgrims march on to their destination. From Monte de Gozo it is said you can see the steeple of the cathedral but I have yet to see that. The trees have grown & the landscape has changed. At Monte de Gozo a new pilgrim refuge was built a few years ago. It sleeps 500 pilgrims!!! Then through the outskirts, across a major road and the old city is in sight. Coming this way we enter through the Porte de Camino, following the brass scallop shells in the cobblestones. Up past old buildings then down the steps, turn left into Plaza Obradoiro. The cathedral is right there, shrouded in scaffolding as it undergoes restoration. I have mixed emotions being here in this special place. The numbers speak for themselves but it is still hard to comprehend that I actually walked 2543 kilometres in 109 days with only 4 rest days in that time. My next step is to visit the Pilgrim Office where I join a queue and half an hour later I am explaining to an Irish volunteer the reasons for my journey. I have 2 pilgrim credentials with a stamp for every day I walked. There is no empty place for Santiago but that's ok. She puts it on the map on the back. The final stamp of the Cathedral of Santiago. This year there is also another Certificate of Distance that I can get, apart from my Compostela so now I have 2. I spend some time then with the Dutch Friends of the Camino who have a welcome room right nearby. Now it's time to take the boots off and 'pilgrim watch'. We sit around watching other pilgrims arrive. Big hugs & smiles and calls of congratulations as familiar faces we have seen along the way complete their journey also.
My walking is completed but for many women in Ethiopia they are just starting their walk in the hope of being healed. If you have not already done so please make your donation now.
hamlinfistulafundraising.com/NolaVulling
Friday, 12 September 2014
Tuesday, 9 September 2014
Thankyou
I would like to say a very big thankyou to the many people who have been so generous in making a donation to the Catherine Hamlin hospital and midwife training centre in Ethiopia. If you have enjoyed reading this blog and would like to make a huge difference to some of the most marginalised women in the world please make your donation now.
Several pilgrims I have met along the way have made donations including 2 of my Irish mates I met in the last few days.
To those who have made donations on line recently many thanks for your generosity. Every dollar makes a difference.
www.hamlinfistulafundraising.com/NolaVulling
Several pilgrims I have met along the way have made donations including 2 of my Irish mates I met in the last few days.
To those who have made donations on line recently many thanks for your generosity. Every dollar makes a difference.
www.hamlinfistulafundraising.com/NolaVulling
Day 107-108 La Coruna
Day 107- Palas de Rei - Arzua 29.4km
Another awesome day with perfect walking weather. Cool start, then sunshine later. Past numerous horreos, rectangular buildings built above ground on pillars, usually stone ends & ventilated sides, used for storing grain/corn/ produce, free from vermin. Very typical for this area. Some are several metres long & very old. Rural Spain, maize/corn, hops, vegetable gardens. Then forests of oak, pine, chestnut & eucalypt. Aaah the smell of home. So appropriate for these last few days. Like being welcomed. Lots of pilgrims from many countries. Coffee stops are frequent now as little bars pop up every few kms. Past stone crosses, in the centre of a village, at a crossroad, or on top of a fence. Lots of ups & downs but nothing too strenuous. I couldn't get a bed where I had planned to stay at Ribadiso so another 3km brought me to Arzua. Here I catch up with the Irish guys I have seen a few times, as well as Tara from NY and Deb from Toronto. A great day. Only 2 women in our albergue tonight with about 16-18 men. But happy to say no snoring & no early risers.
Day 108- Arzua to O'Pedrouzo 20km Tue 9/9
Breakfast at the bar next door then off into the early morning mist. Dripping from the trees but no rain. Lots of pilgrims, tap tapping with their walking poles, lots of Spanish chatter, people striding by, heads down. We all have the same destination -Santiago. Most will not get there until tomorrow but many are determined to do it today so are very focused on their goal. Lots of ups & downs. We start with a climb of almost an hour, between stone walls, through eucalypt forests, across bridges & small streams. I have coffee at A Calle where 2 small puppies are running around between the tables & chairs. They are so cute. More eucalypts, more ups & downs then alongside a busy road into Pedrouzo. Not much of a town but plenty of places to eat. And now it's dinner time. Until tomorrow.
Another awesome day with perfect walking weather. Cool start, then sunshine later. Past numerous horreos, rectangular buildings built above ground on pillars, usually stone ends & ventilated sides, used for storing grain/corn/ produce, free from vermin. Very typical for this area. Some are several metres long & very old. Rural Spain, maize/corn, hops, vegetable gardens. Then forests of oak, pine, chestnut & eucalypt. Aaah the smell of home. So appropriate for these last few days. Like being welcomed. Lots of pilgrims from many countries. Coffee stops are frequent now as little bars pop up every few kms. Past stone crosses, in the centre of a village, at a crossroad, or on top of a fence. Lots of ups & downs but nothing too strenuous. I couldn't get a bed where I had planned to stay at Ribadiso so another 3km brought me to Arzua. Here I catch up with the Irish guys I have seen a few times, as well as Tara from NY and Deb from Toronto. A great day. Only 2 women in our albergue tonight with about 16-18 men. But happy to say no snoring & no early risers.
Day 108- Arzua to O'Pedrouzo 20km Tue 9/9
Breakfast at the bar next door then off into the early morning mist. Dripping from the trees but no rain. Lots of pilgrims, tap tapping with their walking poles, lots of Spanish chatter, people striding by, heads down. We all have the same destination -Santiago. Most will not get there until tomorrow but many are determined to do it today so are very focused on their goal. Lots of ups & downs. We start with a climb of almost an hour, between stone walls, through eucalypt forests, across bridges & small streams. I have coffee at A Calle where 2 small puppies are running around between the tables & chairs. They are so cute. More eucalypts, more ups & downs then alongside a busy road into Pedrouzo. Not much of a town but plenty of places to eat. And now it's dinner time. Until tomorrow.
Sunday, 7 September 2014
Day 106- Portomarin to Palas de Rei in the rain
Day 106- Portomarin to Palas de Rei - 26 km Sun 7/9
Last night I moved to a bunk as far from the door as possible & had a great sleep. I was the first one up at 10 to 7. A passing shower meant I tested my new rain poncho this morning. Slung over my backpack but open at the front as the climb soon warms me up after crossing the bridge. Through the dark forest to Gonzar for coffee & toast. Here I chat with a couple of young Sth African accountants from Johannesburg. We exchange email addresses and go on our way. At 10.30 it starts to rain. At first I seek shelter but it is not stopping so keep on. Then I share a barn with some cows and chat with the farmer who tells me "welcome to rainy Galicia". We laugh and I move on. This is absolutely ridiculous, hilarious & crazy. All these pilgrims walking in the rain. All sorts of people in their multicoloured rain gear and some with no protection at all. The rain does not let up for the rest of the day. At least the terrain is good for walking and not dangerous for this pilgrim with her unroadworthy boots. My feet are wet but my walking poles give me good grip and stability, even when I lend one to another pilgrim to negotiate what is now a stream of muddy water running over rocks in a narrow gully between a rock wall and grassy stuff on the other side. I use 1 pole and hold onto the rocks with the other hand as we straddle the stream of water. At the bottom I take a photo of the line of pilgrims following. It makes me laugh out loud. We look so silly. Grown up people walking in the rain, sloshing around in the mud. Hilarious. Finally it's into Palas de Rei. My new poncho which I bought in Burgos has served me well. Apart from my feet I and my backpack are warm and dry. I check into a new Albergue- Castro where I can have a bed in an 8 bed room, sharing with three other pilgrims. Great. For the first time when I tried to get into the new albergue San Marcos, opposite the church, I was told no go because they only had a room for 4 not 1. An interesting way of doing things. I guess they are only catering for groups.
Last night I moved to a bunk as far from the door as possible & had a great sleep. I was the first one up at 10 to 7. A passing shower meant I tested my new rain poncho this morning. Slung over my backpack but open at the front as the climb soon warms me up after crossing the bridge. Through the dark forest to Gonzar for coffee & toast. Here I chat with a couple of young Sth African accountants from Johannesburg. We exchange email addresses and go on our way. At 10.30 it starts to rain. At first I seek shelter but it is not stopping so keep on. Then I share a barn with some cows and chat with the farmer who tells me "welcome to rainy Galicia". We laugh and I move on. This is absolutely ridiculous, hilarious & crazy. All these pilgrims walking in the rain. All sorts of people in their multicoloured rain gear and some with no protection at all. The rain does not let up for the rest of the day. At least the terrain is good for walking and not dangerous for this pilgrim with her unroadworthy boots. My feet are wet but my walking poles give me good grip and stability, even when I lend one to another pilgrim to negotiate what is now a stream of muddy water running over rocks in a narrow gully between a rock wall and grassy stuff on the other side. I use 1 pole and hold onto the rocks with the other hand as we straddle the stream of water. At the bottom I take a photo of the line of pilgrims following. It makes me laugh out loud. We look so silly. Grown up people walking in the rain, sloshing around in the mud. Hilarious. Finally it's into Palas de Rei. My new poncho which I bought in Burgos has served me well. Apart from my feet I and my backpack are warm and dry. I check into a new Albergue- Castro where I can have a bed in an 8 bed room, sharing with three other pilgrims. Great. For the first time when I tried to get into the new albergue San Marcos, opposite the church, I was told no go because they only had a room for 4 not 1. An interesting way of doing things. I guess they are only catering for groups.
Day 103-105 Santiago beckons
Day 103- Trabadelo to Triacastela - 39km Thur 4/9
Two pilgrims get up at 4.30 which sort of determines my day. A cool start in the Valcarce valley as the route criss crosses the rio Valcarce several times. The Hotel Valcarce is lit up like a Christmas tree and shines like a beacon in the pre dawn darkness. I stop at Ambasmetas for breakfast, toast with Vegemite. Yum. Here in the valley a highway has been built on pylons probably 50m up above the small villages. So now instead of heavy transports going thru the village you can here them high above. In Herrerias a big friendly bull looks me in the eye then wanders off for his day in the meadow with his cows. Along the road for a bit before heading left gently down then up, climbing up & up to La Faba where I stop for a cold drink. Upwards for the next hour or so. Fabulous views across the valleys and the mountains shrouded in mist. Then the welcome wall of O'Cebreiro at 1330m, I've climbed 700 metres since starting this morning. The path goes up and then down again before rising to Alto San Roque at 1270m. Past wild dianthus, pretty in pink amongst the other wild flowers. Now the old km markers start counting down to Santiago. No longer accurate but an indication that the end of the walking is approaching. A pity they have been spoiled by graffiti. I give the albergue at Hospital de la Condesa a miss when I see the 4.30am risers waiting there. At Alto do Poio the wind is strong & cold so I continue until making Triacastela. Here I can get a single room in a pension. Oh bliss. A towel & sheets. Yay. A really great day.
Day 104- Triacastela to Sarria 19km
A nice short day is planned and it works out well. A start in the early morning mist hanging around the valley, but not cold. Thru San Xil where the small chapel is now an art space, open @ 8 in the morning. Through the middle of another farmyard at Montan, with liquid cow pats on the path & chickens scratching, roosters crowing, & a dog sleeping amongst the pilgrim traffic. More misty mountains, the scallop dominated fountain, stone fences, ancient trees & slate roofs on stone buildings. Trees are already starting to lose their leaves which flutter down around our feet. The way is up & down, sometimes more difficult than others. Church bells ring out through the mist, echoing around the valley as I descend into Sarria, past the 112km post. It is from here that many pilgrims start their journey to Santiago as in order to get a Compostela, pilgrims must prove they have walked 100kms. Later I meet a couple from Holland who were dropped off by their bus at 103km. In Sarria I check in to Pension Matias. A lovely single room tucked up amongst the slate roofs of the adjoining buildings in the old town.
Day 105- Sarria to Portomarin 23km
After a great buffet breakfast at Matias the way is up, past the market, setting up for the day. Great views over sleepy Sarria in the valley below. Then a very steep descent to cross a small stone medieval bridge, alongside then across the railway line on the rocky path, through forests it climbs steeply between the centuries old oak trees, gnarled, broad & shady. As the sun rises behind me it is clear this will be another beautiful day. After 2 hours a coffee stop where the farmer moves her cows alongside then across the road. Climbing between moss covered stone fences/walls, another stone cross, old stone buildings with slate roofs, some tumbling down. Out of the woods, thru Ferrerios, down the hill to Mirallis where another farming couple are moving their cows, straight down the middle of the road. It stops the traffics but not some rather silly pilgrims who just walk thru the middle of the herd. It's another long steep down to cross the rio Mino on the high bridge into Portomarin. Then up the steep stone steps on the other side and under the archway I turn left where I check in to Albergue Ferramenteiro. This albergue has beds for 130 pilgrims in one long room divided by curtains. It is immaculate and everything works. Here all the bunks are made up with their disposable bottom sheet & pillowcase. It almost looks like a hospital except they are bunk beds. The staff even wear long white tops. The view over the dammed river is just beautiful. A great meal at the Mirador restaurant later tops off another great day.
Two pilgrims get up at 4.30 which sort of determines my day. A cool start in the Valcarce valley as the route criss crosses the rio Valcarce several times. The Hotel Valcarce is lit up like a Christmas tree and shines like a beacon in the pre dawn darkness. I stop at Ambasmetas for breakfast, toast with Vegemite. Yum. Here in the valley a highway has been built on pylons probably 50m up above the small villages. So now instead of heavy transports going thru the village you can here them high above. In Herrerias a big friendly bull looks me in the eye then wanders off for his day in the meadow with his cows. Along the road for a bit before heading left gently down then up, climbing up & up to La Faba where I stop for a cold drink. Upwards for the next hour or so. Fabulous views across the valleys and the mountains shrouded in mist. Then the welcome wall of O'Cebreiro at 1330m, I've climbed 700 metres since starting this morning. The path goes up and then down again before rising to Alto San Roque at 1270m. Past wild dianthus, pretty in pink amongst the other wild flowers. Now the old km markers start counting down to Santiago. No longer accurate but an indication that the end of the walking is approaching. A pity they have been spoiled by graffiti. I give the albergue at Hospital de la Condesa a miss when I see the 4.30am risers waiting there. At Alto do Poio the wind is strong & cold so I continue until making Triacastela. Here I can get a single room in a pension. Oh bliss. A towel & sheets. Yay. A really great day.
Day 104- Triacastela to Sarria 19km
A nice short day is planned and it works out well. A start in the early morning mist hanging around the valley, but not cold. Thru San Xil where the small chapel is now an art space, open @ 8 in the morning. Through the middle of another farmyard at Montan, with liquid cow pats on the path & chickens scratching, roosters crowing, & a dog sleeping amongst the pilgrim traffic. More misty mountains, the scallop dominated fountain, stone fences, ancient trees & slate roofs on stone buildings. Trees are already starting to lose their leaves which flutter down around our feet. The way is up & down, sometimes more difficult than others. Church bells ring out through the mist, echoing around the valley as I descend into Sarria, past the 112km post. It is from here that many pilgrims start their journey to Santiago as in order to get a Compostela, pilgrims must prove they have walked 100kms. Later I meet a couple from Holland who were dropped off by their bus at 103km. In Sarria I check in to Pension Matias. A lovely single room tucked up amongst the slate roofs of the adjoining buildings in the old town.
Day 105- Sarria to Portomarin 23km
After a great buffet breakfast at Matias the way is up, past the market, setting up for the day. Great views over sleepy Sarria in the valley below. Then a very steep descent to cross a small stone medieval bridge, alongside then across the railway line on the rocky path, through forests it climbs steeply between the centuries old oak trees, gnarled, broad & shady. As the sun rises behind me it is clear this will be another beautiful day. After 2 hours a coffee stop where the farmer moves her cows alongside then across the road. Climbing between moss covered stone fences/walls, another stone cross, old stone buildings with slate roofs, some tumbling down. Out of the woods, thru Ferrerios, down the hill to Mirallis where another farming couple are moving their cows, straight down the middle of the road. It stops the traffics but not some rather silly pilgrims who just walk thru the middle of the herd. It's another long steep down to cross the rio Mino on the high bridge into Portomarin. Then up the steep stone steps on the other side and under the archway I turn left where I check in to Albergue Ferramenteiro. This albergue has beds for 130 pilgrims in one long room divided by curtains. It is immaculate and everything works. Here all the bunks are made up with their disposable bottom sheet & pillowcase. It almost looks like a hospital except they are bunk beds. The staff even wear long white tops. The view over the dammed river is just beautiful. A great meal at the Mirador restaurant later tops off another great day.
Friday, 5 September 2014
Day 100-102
Day 100- that's exciting. Murias de Rechivaldo to Foncebadon 22km
Today I climb into the Irago mountains which I have seen for a few days ahead of me. Initial walking is a little like the Flinders Ranges/outback SA. Lots of jet streams in the sky. Mostly on gravel paths alongside the road and beside stone walls. Coffee in El Ganso then back on the dusty path, below the power lines sizzling overhead then lots of uphill amongst the heather and loose stone. Sheep bells ring as they move up the hillsides. I choose the Druid Place to stay but eat at Monte Irago, opposite. Delicious paella served from a huge shallow pan. Yum
Day 101- Foncebadon to Ponferrada 26 km
First up to the tiny iron cross which is affixed to a tall wooden pole. Here pilgrims traditionally leave a stone or other memento from home. Early morning brings beautiful sunrise views over the mountains. The route today is difficult with lots of rock to cross as it goes down for a long way. Warm & sunny into Ponferrada where the albergue is huge. Not the best place to stay and definitely not somewhere I would recommend. Put it on the miss list. Play tourist & visit some churches and the Knights Templar castle.
Day 102- Ponferrada to Trabadelo. 33 km
A rather early wake up call when the girl on the bunk above takes a phone call at 5am. At least I get an early start. Thru the silent city which has very poor way marking. I walk a lot of today with Alex from Melbourne. Past numerous stone crosses, along dirt tracks, very dusty, thru vineyards, often stoney, ups & downs. The way climbs up after Cacabelos where all we have to walk on is the very edge of the road. After Pieros we can walk through vineyards which is much better & safer. Stunning views all round, up & down until we reach Villafranca de Bierzo. Straight thru, although actually it's anything but straight or flat. Across the little stone bridge then alongside the road again as Alex & I track on thru Pereje & into Trabadelo. That's it for me but Alex goes on. A long hot day & I'm glad to finish. There is a hot wind blowing and the temp is in the 30s even though we are deep in the Valcarce valley.
Today I climb into the Irago mountains which I have seen for a few days ahead of me. Initial walking is a little like the Flinders Ranges/outback SA. Lots of jet streams in the sky. Mostly on gravel paths alongside the road and beside stone walls. Coffee in El Ganso then back on the dusty path, below the power lines sizzling overhead then lots of uphill amongst the heather and loose stone. Sheep bells ring as they move up the hillsides. I choose the Druid Place to stay but eat at Monte Irago, opposite. Delicious paella served from a huge shallow pan. Yum
Day 101- Foncebadon to Ponferrada 26 km
First up to the tiny iron cross which is affixed to a tall wooden pole. Here pilgrims traditionally leave a stone or other memento from home. Early morning brings beautiful sunrise views over the mountains. The route today is difficult with lots of rock to cross as it goes down for a long way. Warm & sunny into Ponferrada where the albergue is huge. Not the best place to stay and definitely not somewhere I would recommend. Put it on the miss list. Play tourist & visit some churches and the Knights Templar castle.
Day 102- Ponferrada to Trabadelo. 33 km
A rather early wake up call when the girl on the bunk above takes a phone call at 5am. At least I get an early start. Thru the silent city which has very poor way marking. I walk a lot of today with Alex from Melbourne. Past numerous stone crosses, along dirt tracks, very dusty, thru vineyards, often stoney, ups & downs. The way climbs up after Cacabelos where all we have to walk on is the very edge of the road. After Pieros we can walk through vineyards which is much better & safer. Stunning views all round, up & down until we reach Villafranca de Bierzo. Straight thru, although actually it's anything but straight or flat. Across the little stone bridge then alongside the road again as Alex & I track on thru Pereje & into Trabadelo. That's it for me but Alex goes on. A long hot day & I'm glad to finish. There is a hot wind blowing and the temp is in the 30s even though we are deep in the Valcarce valley.
Sunday, 31 August 2014
Days 95-99 Across the meseta & beyond
I 'm going to combine a few days here to get up to date.
Day 95- Terradillos to El Burgo Ranero 31 km
Day 96- El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas 19.1km
Day 97- Mansilla to Leon 18.6 km
Day 98- Leon to San Martin del Camino 27km
Day 99- San Martin del Camino to Murias de Rechivaldo 29.3km
Lots of early mornings, walking in the dark then as the sun rises behind me the most beautiful colours in the sky, all around. The usual routine is to walk a few kms then stop for breakfast. Fresh OJ, coffee & toast or pastry. I have my tube of Vegemite so usually choose toast on which I can spread it. The weather has been warm & sunny but also often high cloud and light breezes. Good walking temps. Along the way there are many chapels, churches, often with storks' nests on the bell towers, stone bridges and concrete, above ground small v shaped irrigation channel with lots of leaks. I meet an American author and we chat for a while, then later a couple of Aussie women. We are all heading west to Santiago. The first couple of days were fairly straight but now there are more hills. Much has also been alongside roads. Trees have been planted alongside the path and provide very welcome shade from the afternoon sun. Both Mansilla & Leon have old city walls, much of which is still intact, up to 14m high and 3m thick. Very sturdy. In Leon I stay at the Hotel Isidoro which is behind the old city wall, part of the Pantheon building complex. Streets are paved with large river pebbles although I wonder if perhaps this part of Spain was once under water because those same rounded river pebbles are all over the pilgrim path as well as in the fields. Today I crossed one of the prettiest and longest arched bridges on the Camino, in Hospital de Orbigo with more than 20 arches. It has a lot of romantic history about knights jousting and unrequited love. After Hospital the way becomes more hilly. In the distance can be seen the Cantabrian mountains which draw closer every day. Tomorrow will be the first serious climb for some time. Santiago is now only a couple of weeks away. The days are changing as Autumn arrives.
Day 95- Terradillos to El Burgo Ranero 31 km
Day 96- El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas 19.1km
Day 97- Mansilla to Leon 18.6 km
Day 98- Leon to San Martin del Camino 27km
Day 99- San Martin del Camino to Murias de Rechivaldo 29.3km
Lots of early mornings, walking in the dark then as the sun rises behind me the most beautiful colours in the sky, all around. The usual routine is to walk a few kms then stop for breakfast. Fresh OJ, coffee & toast or pastry. I have my tube of Vegemite so usually choose toast on which I can spread it. The weather has been warm & sunny but also often high cloud and light breezes. Good walking temps. Along the way there are many chapels, churches, often with storks' nests on the bell towers, stone bridges and concrete, above ground small v shaped irrigation channel with lots of leaks. I meet an American author and we chat for a while, then later a couple of Aussie women. We are all heading west to Santiago. The first couple of days were fairly straight but now there are more hills. Much has also been alongside roads. Trees have been planted alongside the path and provide very welcome shade from the afternoon sun. Both Mansilla & Leon have old city walls, much of which is still intact, up to 14m high and 3m thick. Very sturdy. In Leon I stay at the Hotel Isidoro which is behind the old city wall, part of the Pantheon building complex. Streets are paved with large river pebbles although I wonder if perhaps this part of Spain was once under water because those same rounded river pebbles are all over the pilgrim path as well as in the fields. Today I crossed one of the prettiest and longest arched bridges on the Camino, in Hospital de Orbigo with more than 20 arches. It has a lot of romantic history about knights jousting and unrequited love. After Hospital the way becomes more hilly. In the distance can be seen the Cantabrian mountains which draw closer every day. Tomorrow will be the first serious climb for some time. Santiago is now only a couple of weeks away. The days are changing as Autumn arrives.
Tuesday, 26 August 2014
Day 94 - Along the Roman Road
Day 94- Tue 26/8- Carrion de Los Condes to Terradillos de Los Templarios 27km
Another glorious day for walking early in the dawn as we leave Carrion after it's night of fiesta when the music, which was several blocks away, went on until 4am. After crossing the rio Carrion on an ancient stone Roman bridge the route is on the road for a while, with pilgrims strung out along a couple of kilometres all heading west. The way soon veers left onto an old Roman road which you wouldn't know except that the guide book tells me & there is a sign on a rock off to one side. It goes straight for many kms thru open fields and the occasional hill. Gravel to start then later rocky. It is 17.5 km to the first village where we stop for a coffee & something to eat. Today I am walking with an American & an Italian who I met a few days ago. It was nice to be able to leave town in the dark with someone although there seem to be many more pilgrims on this section than a few days ago. A long slow climb brings us to Ledigos for another short stop then it's straight on into Hornillos de Los Templarios which has connections to the Knights Templar. Weather is warm and sometimes sunny. Quite a bit of cloud cover today and a head wind all the way. Walking is done by 1pm do then it's time for siesta and journalling.
Another glorious day for walking early in the dawn as we leave Carrion after it's night of fiesta when the music, which was several blocks away, went on until 4am. After crossing the rio Carrion on an ancient stone Roman bridge the route is on the road for a while, with pilgrims strung out along a couple of kilometres all heading west. The way soon veers left onto an old Roman road which you wouldn't know except that the guide book tells me & there is a sign on a rock off to one side. It goes straight for many kms thru open fields and the occasional hill. Gravel to start then later rocky. It is 17.5 km to the first village where we stop for a coffee & something to eat. Today I am walking with an American & an Italian who I met a few days ago. It was nice to be able to leave town in the dark with someone although there seem to be many more pilgrims on this section than a few days ago. A long slow climb brings us to Ledigos for another short stop then it's straight on into Hornillos de Los Templarios which has connections to the Knights Templar. Weather is warm and sometimes sunny. Quite a bit of cloud cover today and a head wind all the way. Walking is done by 1pm do then it's time for siesta and journalling.
Monday, 25 August 2014
Day 92-93 The meseta in Northern Spain
Day 92- Sun 24/8 - Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino 29km
A nice early start westward into the dawn. The sun rises behind me as the route takes me around the hillside on a small track, past ruins then down to the paved road which passes through the archway of the remnants of Convento de San Anton. I could have stayed at the Albergue here but I need to recharge my phone every night and there is no electricity. Soon into Castrojeriz which has the ruins of a castle standing guard atop the mountain behind it. A very long Main Street but signs of improved economic conditions which is good for the local people. The Camino means a lot to these small towns which were rapidly dying until the resurgence of pilgrimage and the subsequent demands for infrastructure. In the middle of town is a small private oasis where the door is always open to all comers, Hospital de Alma. A real place of quiet and rest. After Castrojeriz there is a steep climb to Alto de Mostalares followed by a steeper descent to the meseta which is stretched out ahead like a canvas of parchment. Quite a caravan of pilgrims are visible trekking their way westward. Past Saint Nicholas chapel and on into the province of Palencia. Now in the midday sun the road is glary but a gentle breeze keeps conditions reasonable. Across the Canal Pisuerga as the road, now broad and stoney climbs gradually to a peak where my destination of Boadilla is visible 4kms away. There I check in to one of 4 albergues and chill out. Another great day. Here I meet Alex, an Australian girl from Camberwell. Small world.
Day 93- Boadilla to Carrion de Los Condes - 26.5km
Another early morning start which I love. Most of the other 30+ pilgrims have already gone before 7am. The way takes a left turn after leaving the village past elevated irrigation channels leaking water, past tumbling haystacks and soon alongside the Canal de Castilla which I follow until crossing it and heading into Fromista. Time for a fresh OJ and croissant then out of town, across the highway and high speed train tracks before hitting the Senda de Peregrinos- a footpath built specially for pilgrims which runs beside the road. Straight but hilly and basically a good walking surface. After passing several old stone crosses and a couple of smaller villages I take a break at Villarmentero de Campos where 2 donkeys, several geese, chickens & a turkey wander amongst the tables and chairs while I drink my coffee. From here on its straight almost all the way, gently undulating, warm & sunny with enough breeze again to keep the temp reasonable for walking. I track on into Carrion de Los Condes in time for lunch. But first it's check in with the nuns at Esperitu Santo, do the washing then relax. Another great day in the open air. Here I meet another Aussie girl from Cairns.
A nice early start westward into the dawn. The sun rises behind me as the route takes me around the hillside on a small track, past ruins then down to the paved road which passes through the archway of the remnants of Convento de San Anton. I could have stayed at the Albergue here but I need to recharge my phone every night and there is no electricity. Soon into Castrojeriz which has the ruins of a castle standing guard atop the mountain behind it. A very long Main Street but signs of improved economic conditions which is good for the local people. The Camino means a lot to these small towns which were rapidly dying until the resurgence of pilgrimage and the subsequent demands for infrastructure. In the middle of town is a small private oasis where the door is always open to all comers, Hospital de Alma. A real place of quiet and rest. After Castrojeriz there is a steep climb to Alto de Mostalares followed by a steeper descent to the meseta which is stretched out ahead like a canvas of parchment. Quite a caravan of pilgrims are visible trekking their way westward. Past Saint Nicholas chapel and on into the province of Palencia. Now in the midday sun the road is glary but a gentle breeze keeps conditions reasonable. Across the Canal Pisuerga as the road, now broad and stoney climbs gradually to a peak where my destination of Boadilla is visible 4kms away. There I check in to one of 4 albergues and chill out. Another great day. Here I meet Alex, an Australian girl from Camberwell. Small world.
Day 93- Boadilla to Carrion de Los Condes - 26.5km
Another early morning start which I love. Most of the other 30+ pilgrims have already gone before 7am. The way takes a left turn after leaving the village past elevated irrigation channels leaking water, past tumbling haystacks and soon alongside the Canal de Castilla which I follow until crossing it and heading into Fromista. Time for a fresh OJ and croissant then out of town, across the highway and high speed train tracks before hitting the Senda de Peregrinos- a footpath built specially for pilgrims which runs beside the road. Straight but hilly and basically a good walking surface. After passing several old stone crosses and a couple of smaller villages I take a break at Villarmentero de Campos where 2 donkeys, several geese, chickens & a turkey wander amongst the tables and chairs while I drink my coffee. From here on its straight almost all the way, gently undulating, warm & sunny with enough breeze again to keep the temp reasonable for walking. I track on into Carrion de Los Condes in time for lunch. But first it's check in with the nuns at Esperitu Santo, do the washing then relax. Another great day in the open air. Here I meet another Aussie girl from Cairns.
Saturday, 23 August 2014
Day 91 - A hot day on the meseta
Day 91- West of Burgos to Hontanas - 27km
After a night of luxury in a hotel I hit the road before 7am. The route has changed here due to the fast rail line & ongoing road works. A local lady Maria, shows me how to avoid the detour. It's Saturday so I can walk straight thru the middle of the roadworks, under the freeway across a bridge alongside the road to Tardajos where I stop for breakfast. Then it's on farm tracks and very stoney paths for the rest of the day. Up and down, some steep and others long and gradual. Through Rabe, and then Hornillos del Camino where it's time for a break and a cool drink. The weather is warming up with a cloudless blue sky above and the occasional cool breeze. Lots of wind turbines on the skyline and stones, stones & more stones. They are heaped up either side of the track and in the recently turned soil you wonder how this land can be farmed for grain. There are few trees but wild roses, blackberries and brush form a hedgerow like windbreak beside the track. Quite a few other pilgrims pass by. The sign tells me Hontanas is only 500m away yet all around there is nothing to see. Then a turn of the road and there below tucked into a small valley is the village of Hontanas. I get a bed for the night at Albergue Santa Brigida. Clean sheet and pillowcase and spacious rooms. Only 16 beds in 3 rooms. Here I can have dinner as well and the speciality of the house is Paella. There is even a small fountain in the courtyard where we can soak our tired feet. Great dinner and good company. Only 10 pilgrims in total. Hope it will be a quiet night. No fiesta anyway.
After a night of luxury in a hotel I hit the road before 7am. The route has changed here due to the fast rail line & ongoing road works. A local lady Maria, shows me how to avoid the detour. It's Saturday so I can walk straight thru the middle of the roadworks, under the freeway across a bridge alongside the road to Tardajos where I stop for breakfast. Then it's on farm tracks and very stoney paths for the rest of the day. Up and down, some steep and others long and gradual. Through Rabe, and then Hornillos del Camino where it's time for a break and a cool drink. The weather is warming up with a cloudless blue sky above and the occasional cool breeze. Lots of wind turbines on the skyline and stones, stones & more stones. They are heaped up either side of the track and in the recently turned soil you wonder how this land can be farmed for grain. There are few trees but wild roses, blackberries and brush form a hedgerow like windbreak beside the track. Quite a few other pilgrims pass by. The sign tells me Hontanas is only 500m away yet all around there is nothing to see. Then a turn of the road and there below tucked into a small valley is the village of Hontanas. I get a bed for the night at Albergue Santa Brigida. Clean sheet and pillowcase and spacious rooms. Only 16 beds in 3 rooms. Here I can have dinner as well and the speciality of the house is Paella. There is even a small fountain in the courtyard where we can soak our tired feet. Great dinner and good company. Only 10 pilgrims in total. Hope it will be a quiet night. No fiesta anyway.
Day 90- Onward ever westward
Day 90- Ages to west Burgos - 24km
A noisy night in Ages- yes Fiesta. One of the guys obviously had trouble sleeping as he moved to 2 different bunks, including the one above me in the early hours. As the beds have rubber casings and we were issued with disposable sheets he would have been rather uncomfortable as he didn't take his bedding with him. At one stage he took my sleeping bag off my feet and lay on that but I soon retrieved it from under his inert body. No breakfast before leaving - bar is closed- fiesta. The route takes the road for the first few kms to Atapuerca where there has been a significant fossil find of early man. Here we have breakfast at the little tienda. Now the way diverges from the road, past sheep with black noses, ears & feet. Up a very rocky path that looks like it was once molten lava except its white not black. The way rises steadily past barbed wire fences and then at the top a tall cross in a pile of stones. It is raining lightly and the breeze makes it cool walking. We track on through Orbaneja with its old stone buildings. Then it's over a freeway and the main Madrid Hendaye railway line, past the airport and into Villafria for a coffee stop before heading through the industrial area along the main road into the city of Burgos. At the albergue behind the cathedral I say farewell to my walking companion of more than 2 months, Jean-Pierre. He will now be free to enjoy the sights and experiences of the Camino at his own pace, in his own time and in his own way. The Camino is a personal experience and you cannot truly appreciate it when walking to someone else's agenda. I wish him Buen Camino and expect to catch up again in Santiago where all things come together. I head on out of town to find somewhere to stay. Another wet but good day of walking.
A noisy night in Ages- yes Fiesta. One of the guys obviously had trouble sleeping as he moved to 2 different bunks, including the one above me in the early hours. As the beds have rubber casings and we were issued with disposable sheets he would have been rather uncomfortable as he didn't take his bedding with him. At one stage he took my sleeping bag off my feet and lay on that but I soon retrieved it from under his inert body. No breakfast before leaving - bar is closed- fiesta. The route takes the road for the first few kms to Atapuerca where there has been a significant fossil find of early man. Here we have breakfast at the little tienda. Now the way diverges from the road, past sheep with black noses, ears & feet. Up a very rocky path that looks like it was once molten lava except its white not black. The way rises steadily past barbed wire fences and then at the top a tall cross in a pile of stones. It is raining lightly and the breeze makes it cool walking. We track on through Orbaneja with its old stone buildings. Then it's over a freeway and the main Madrid Hendaye railway line, past the airport and into Villafria for a coffee stop before heading through the industrial area along the main road into the city of Burgos. At the albergue behind the cathedral I say farewell to my walking companion of more than 2 months, Jean-Pierre. He will now be free to enjoy the sights and experiences of the Camino at his own pace, in his own time and in his own way. The Camino is a personal experience and you cannot truly appreciate it when walking to someone else's agenda. I wish him Buen Camino and expect to catch up again in Santiago where all things come together. I head on out of town to find somewhere to stay. Another wet but good day of walking.
Thursday, 21 August 2014
Day 89-Passed the 2000km mark
Day 89-Thur 21/8- Belorado to Ages
Perfect weather for walking with high cloud later clearing to a warm & sunny afternoon. From Belorado it was basically up all day. The way is mostly gravel roads that go round the contours of the hills, through the small villages of Tosantos, Villambista, Epinosa del Camino then Villafranca Montes de Oca, which highway N120 cuts in two. We are quite close to it as we walk thru fields if stubble & sunflowers. When we can't see it we can always hear the trucks as they go up the hills. After Villafranca it is straight up to a monument before diving down then up very steeply to the pine & oak forests where in times past pilgrims were often set upon by bandits. The way here is broad and dusty and there are quite a lot of other pilgrims visible. At St Juan de Ortega the church complex is undergoing significant renovation. This project has been going a long time. After lunch at the bar it is a fairly level trek into Ages, the stop for tonight. Clicked over the 2000kms today with a little more than 500 to go depending on what map or mile post you look at.
Perfect weather for walking with high cloud later clearing to a warm & sunny afternoon. From Belorado it was basically up all day. The way is mostly gravel roads that go round the contours of the hills, through the small villages of Tosantos, Villambista, Epinosa del Camino then Villafranca Montes de Oca, which highway N120 cuts in two. We are quite close to it as we walk thru fields if stubble & sunflowers. When we can't see it we can always hear the trucks as they go up the hills. After Villafranca it is straight up to a monument before diving down then up very steeply to the pine & oak forests where in times past pilgrims were often set upon by bandits. The way here is broad and dusty and there are quite a lot of other pilgrims visible. At St Juan de Ortega the church complex is undergoing significant renovation. This project has been going a long time. After lunch at the bar it is a fairly level trek into Ages, the stop for tonight. Clicked over the 2000kms today with a little more than 500 to go depending on what map or mile post you look at.
Wednesday, 20 August 2014
Day 88- Into Castilla y Leon
Day 88- Ciruena to Belorado 29kms
Another great day for walking. Start off past hops growing tall on vines, then sugar beet, green and lush in the ground. All around is grain stubble. A quick few kms brings us to Santo Domingo de la Calzada where there is a legend about a pilgrim coming back from the dead. A rooster & chickens live in a special cage high up in the cathedral. I didn't visit this time but Jean Pierre did and was most disappointed to find no rooster or hens, just an empty cage. At €3 to go in he was not happy. Headed off across the hills, every shade of cream, gold and brown as far as the eye can see. Past the fat opium poppy seed pods, there for the taking. Winding our way through small villages, up and down. Lots off it alongside the busy N120 with trucks rushing by. High cloud & overcast most of the day made it quite humid at times. Were planning to stop after 23km but refuge did not open until 2pm so walked on thru. Changes happening all the way with more commerce and more places to stay. Not very busy pilgrim wise which surprises me somewhat as it is not a hot summer. We passed a pig farm which we could smell but not see then later a flock of sheep moving across the way. Path generally just broad gravel with the occasional bits of bitumen. We have now gravitated into the autonomous region of Castilla y Leon which is one of the largest in Spain and in which we will be until Galicia. Almost 2000 kms done with less than 600 to go. Signage is all over the place. Earlier today we passed a new official market saying 567km to Santiago and then at the end of the day another saying 576km to go?? So I will just keep in counting as best I can each day and total it up as I go.
Another great day for walking. Start off past hops growing tall on vines, then sugar beet, green and lush in the ground. All around is grain stubble. A quick few kms brings us to Santo Domingo de la Calzada where there is a legend about a pilgrim coming back from the dead. A rooster & chickens live in a special cage high up in the cathedral. I didn't visit this time but Jean Pierre did and was most disappointed to find no rooster or hens, just an empty cage. At €3 to go in he was not happy. Headed off across the hills, every shade of cream, gold and brown as far as the eye can see. Past the fat opium poppy seed pods, there for the taking. Winding our way through small villages, up and down. Lots off it alongside the busy N120 with trucks rushing by. High cloud & overcast most of the day made it quite humid at times. Were planning to stop after 23km but refuge did not open until 2pm so walked on thru. Changes happening all the way with more commerce and more places to stay. Not very busy pilgrim wise which surprises me somewhat as it is not a hot summer. We passed a pig farm which we could smell but not see then later a flock of sheep moving across the way. Path generally just broad gravel with the occasional bits of bitumen. We have now gravitated into the autonomous region of Castilla y Leon which is one of the largest in Spain and in which we will be until Galicia. Almost 2000 kms done with less than 600 to go. Signage is all over the place. Earlier today we passed a new official market saying 567km to Santiago and then at the end of the day another saying 576km to go?? So I will just keep in counting as best I can each day and total it up as I go.
Tuesday, 19 August 2014
Day 87- thru the vineyards of Rioja
Day 87- Navarette to Ciruena - 32 kms
Started bright & early as the first alarm went off at 5am. It was still dark when we left Navarette following other pilgrims up and out of town along the broad stony dusty farm track winding its way through the vines. A short down to the highway which we followed alongside on a gradual climb before deviating to the left and climbing into Ventosa where we had a good breakfast. Off along the track again, more vines & stubble left from the grain & haystacks. After climbing to Alto de San Anton we descend past a gravel pit, across a small stream then track on into Najera through the industrial area. Najera old town is tucked up against red sandstone cliffs alongside the Rio Najarilla. After a coffee break we wend our way thru the narrow streets amongst the traffic as footpaths are only about 40cm wide. We climb up the steep path out of Najera, up and over then through more farmland. Lots of new vines have been planted here and everything, apart from the soil, looks very green- irrigation from v shaped above ground channels. In Azofra we have lunch then move on. Again it's up and down before climbing steeply to the Rioja Alto Golf Club development. Hundreds if unoccupied homes but at least this time there was quite a bit of activity and people. It has taken many years. We go on into the old town of Ciruena then along the road to Casa de Victoria. A new albergue this year. Just lovely and we can have dinner here too. A great very satisfying day. Perfect weather.
Started bright & early as the first alarm went off at 5am. It was still dark when we left Navarette following other pilgrims up and out of town along the broad stony dusty farm track winding its way through the vines. A short down to the highway which we followed alongside on a gradual climb before deviating to the left and climbing into Ventosa where we had a good breakfast. Off along the track again, more vines & stubble left from the grain & haystacks. After climbing to Alto de San Anton we descend past a gravel pit, across a small stream then track on into Najera through the industrial area. Najera old town is tucked up against red sandstone cliffs alongside the Rio Najarilla. After a coffee break we wend our way thru the narrow streets amongst the traffic as footpaths are only about 40cm wide. We climb up the steep path out of Najera, up and over then through more farmland. Lots of new vines have been planted here and everything, apart from the soil, looks very green- irrigation from v shaped above ground channels. In Azofra we have lunch then move on. Again it's up and down before climbing steeply to the Rioja Alto Golf Club development. Hundreds if unoccupied homes but at least this time there was quite a bit of activity and people. It has taken many years. We go on into the old town of Ciruena then along the road to Casa de Victoria. A new albergue this year. Just lovely and we can have dinner here too. A great very satisfying day. Perfect weather.
Monday, 18 August 2014
Day 86 - From Navarra to La Rioja (wine)
Day 86- Viana to Navarette- 22kms Mon 18/8
A snoring night from the Spaniards in the next bunk. No breakfast here so we hit the road after a quick dispensing machine coffee and head to Logroni for breakfast. Down from the town then along a track and later bitumen, descending into the valley. Coming into Logrono we pass Felisa's Table- figs, water & love- a landmark of the Camino for many years. Today it has changed with small souvenirs rather than figs & water. Shortly after though I get to eat some wild figs from the tree near the bridge. We track on into Logrono with its unique Camino symbol of a stylised scallop shell & yellow arrow to point the way. Walking thru the park between the cypress trees I find a rose bush in flower, the Camino de Santiago Rose. Very pretty. Up the steps and across the bridge into the city of Logrono. Breakfast of coffee OJ & toast gives me a chance to eat some Vegemite. We pass the Iglesias de Santiago with its huge statue if Santiago Matamoros. St James the moorslayer. We leave Logrono via the green grassy park, mind the sprinklers, through an underpass with a pilgrim mural before continuing upwards past and around a lake. More uphill climbing. Bitumen now all the way thru vines & alongside the busy highway but high above it as it goes thru a cutting then down past the big black El Toro on the skyline. Across the highway then past a poplar plantation before climbing steeply into the old town if Navarette. By 12.30 we are settled in to Hostal El Cantaro where I have stayed before. It is fiesta here- Saints day- and the kids are playing under a foam making machine, great fun with loads if suds & foam. Everything closes at lunch time. There is a bull ring set up and in the evening there is bull teasing where men try to catch the attention of a young bull then run away when it comes near. All restaurants are closed so it's tapas for dinner. We have now left the region of Navarra and are in wine country La Rioja.
A snoring night from the Spaniards in the next bunk. No breakfast here so we hit the road after a quick dispensing machine coffee and head to Logroni for breakfast. Down from the town then along a track and later bitumen, descending into the valley. Coming into Logrono we pass Felisa's Table- figs, water & love- a landmark of the Camino for many years. Today it has changed with small souvenirs rather than figs & water. Shortly after though I get to eat some wild figs from the tree near the bridge. We track on into Logrono with its unique Camino symbol of a stylised scallop shell & yellow arrow to point the way. Walking thru the park between the cypress trees I find a rose bush in flower, the Camino de Santiago Rose. Very pretty. Up the steps and across the bridge into the city of Logrono. Breakfast of coffee OJ & toast gives me a chance to eat some Vegemite. We pass the Iglesias de Santiago with its huge statue if Santiago Matamoros. St James the moorslayer. We leave Logrono via the green grassy park, mind the sprinklers, through an underpass with a pilgrim mural before continuing upwards past and around a lake. More uphill climbing. Bitumen now all the way thru vines & alongside the busy highway but high above it as it goes thru a cutting then down past the big black El Toro on the skyline. Across the highway then past a poplar plantation before climbing steeply into the old town if Navarette. By 12.30 we are settled in to Hostal El Cantaro where I have stayed before. It is fiesta here- Saints day- and the kids are playing under a foam making machine, great fun with loads if suds & foam. Everything closes at lunch time. There is a bull ring set up and in the evening there is bull teasing where men try to catch the attention of a young bull then run away when it comes near. All restaurants are closed so it's tapas for dinner. We have now left the region of Navarra and are in wine country La Rioja.
Day 85
Day 85- Villamajor to Viana - 31 km
Great Dutch style breakfast before heading off on a beautiful morning. Down hill on broad gravelly paths, thru farmland. Cool start but it soon warms up. Undulating landscape then into Los Arcos where we meet the local band making sure last nights revellers are now awake. It's 10am & yesterday they had bull running thru the town. Many are still dressed in the red & white. Leaving Los Arcos we can soon see the next village of Sansol across on a hilltop. It takes an hour to reach it with the last steep climb in full sun. We pass mountains of stacked hay and pass thru vineyards. There are old gnarled olive trees above the path as well as almonds & blackberries which I help myself to on the way by. From Sansol we descend around the hill , across a steam then again climb steeply to the old stone buildings and Knights Templar church of Torres del Rio. We take our lunch before heading off along the hot and dusty trail, winding our way thru hills, past stone cairns, thru pine forests - up & down. Sometimes so steep we have switchbacks one after the other. Finally we reach the Borgia gate and enter Viana. Here we check into the municipal refuge and are assigned a bed. Later we string a line between 2 trees to get somewhere to hang the washing. Dinner is tapas with Shona from South Africa and Isabel from Germany.
Great Dutch style breakfast before heading off on a beautiful morning. Down hill on broad gravelly paths, thru farmland. Cool start but it soon warms up. Undulating landscape then into Los Arcos where we meet the local band making sure last nights revellers are now awake. It's 10am & yesterday they had bull running thru the town. Many are still dressed in the red & white. Leaving Los Arcos we can soon see the next village of Sansol across on a hilltop. It takes an hour to reach it with the last steep climb in full sun. We pass mountains of stacked hay and pass thru vineyards. There are old gnarled olive trees above the path as well as almonds & blackberries which I help myself to on the way by. From Sansol we descend around the hill , across a steam then again climb steeply to the old stone buildings and Knights Templar church of Torres del Rio. We take our lunch before heading off along the hot and dusty trail, winding our way thru hills, past stone cairns, thru pine forests - up & down. Sometimes so steep we have switchbacks one after the other. Finally we reach the Borgia gate and enter Viana. Here we check into the municipal refuge and are assigned a bed. Later we string a line between 2 trees to get somewhere to hang the washing. Dinner is tapas with Shona from South Africa and Isabel from Germany.
Day 83/84 Travelling West
Day 83- Cizur Menor to Cirauqui 27km
A noisy night but rise and shine is still at 6.30 with breakfast at the local bar. On across the plain in the early morning light. Most fields are ploughed or with drying sunflowers hanging their heads. The path us broad and stoney, cyclists struggle on even though they have a separate path they could take. Long shadows as we climb to Zariquiegui where we have a coffee break & visit the church. Upward and onwards towards the wind turbines and the metal statues that have become the symbol of the Camino, at Alto de Perdon. Over the top. & down the other side on what is one of the worst sections of the whole route with its large stony rubble that moves under every footstep. Definitely walking pole territory. Across fields of stubble , past the statue of the Virgin and into Uterga. The way continues along a ridge with almond trees & grape vines, thru Muruzabal, off the edge of the road on a steep path then another steep climb through Obanos with big brass scallop shells in the footpath to show the way. From here we track on through Puenta la Reina across its beautiful bridge and climb incredibly steeply up til we meet the highway. We pass thru Maneru before meandering through fields lightly undulating, through vineyards and finally climb the narrow streets of Cirauqui. We choose the private refuge Maralotx where we can have dinner downstairs in the Bodega. A very social night where the church bells ring every 1/4 hour right outside the window.
Day 84- Cirauqui to Villamayor de Monjardin - 24km Sat 16/8
A cool start with only a coffee to get us going. Down the Roman road before climbing to cross the highway then along farm tracks, twisting & turning, up & down, criss crossing under a highway and the canal high above as we head to Lorca 6kms away for breakfast. Here we can get fresh OJ, coffee and toast. The path is straight alongside the road, stoney & narrow between the tall weeds. High cloud, a flock of lammergeier soaring high on the thermals above us, then a herd of sheep contained by 2 sheep dogs & a shepherd at the edge of the path. We walk thru Villatuerta where everything g is quiet apart from a group if young revellers still up from the night before. The track is now narrow as we wind our way down and up then down again into Estella where we have lunch before again climbing upwards past the wine fountain at Irache, up the steep streets of Azqueta, then down to cross a stream and upwards on narrow paths to the broad farm road that brings us into Villamayor de Monjardin. Here we again choose the private Albergue which us run by Oasis Trails, a Dutch Christian organisation. It is hard to believe but within an hour another Australian arrives. A young woman from Echuca whose parents I know. Small small world. We have a great night with the best food and the possibility to join in a meditation time after dinner.
A noisy night but rise and shine is still at 6.30 with breakfast at the local bar. On across the plain in the early morning light. Most fields are ploughed or with drying sunflowers hanging their heads. The path us broad and stoney, cyclists struggle on even though they have a separate path they could take. Long shadows as we climb to Zariquiegui where we have a coffee break & visit the church. Upward and onwards towards the wind turbines and the metal statues that have become the symbol of the Camino, at Alto de Perdon. Over the top. & down the other side on what is one of the worst sections of the whole route with its large stony rubble that moves under every footstep. Definitely walking pole territory. Across fields of stubble , past the statue of the Virgin and into Uterga. The way continues along a ridge with almond trees & grape vines, thru Muruzabal, off the edge of the road on a steep path then another steep climb through Obanos with big brass scallop shells in the footpath to show the way. From here we track on through Puenta la Reina across its beautiful bridge and climb incredibly steeply up til we meet the highway. We pass thru Maneru before meandering through fields lightly undulating, through vineyards and finally climb the narrow streets of Cirauqui. We choose the private refuge Maralotx where we can have dinner downstairs in the Bodega. A very social night where the church bells ring every 1/4 hour right outside the window.
Day 84- Cirauqui to Villamayor de Monjardin - 24km Sat 16/8
A cool start with only a coffee to get us going. Down the Roman road before climbing to cross the highway then along farm tracks, twisting & turning, up & down, criss crossing under a highway and the canal high above as we head to Lorca 6kms away for breakfast. Here we can get fresh OJ, coffee and toast. The path is straight alongside the road, stoney & narrow between the tall weeds. High cloud, a flock of lammergeier soaring high on the thermals above us, then a herd of sheep contained by 2 sheep dogs & a shepherd at the edge of the path. We walk thru Villatuerta where everything g is quiet apart from a group if young revellers still up from the night before. The track is now narrow as we wind our way down and up then down again into Estella where we have lunch before again climbing upwards past the wine fountain at Irache, up the steep streets of Azqueta, then down to cross a stream and upwards on narrow paths to the broad farm road that brings us into Villamayor de Monjardin. Here we again choose the private Albergue which us run by Oasis Trails, a Dutch Christian organisation. It is hard to believe but within an hour another Australian arrives. A young woman from Echuca whose parents I know. Small small world. We have a great night with the best food and the possibility to join in a meditation time after dinner.
Sunday, 17 August 2014
Day 81-82 More of Spain.
Day 81-Roncesvalles to Zubiri - 22
Rained in the night and a cool start. Through woods & forests, across small waterways with stones stacked on top of each other to form a bridge. Steep up after Viskarette on corrugated exposed aggregate concrete to give grip on the slope. We meet a family with 2 children walking to Pamplona. Mossy stone walls, narrow pathways watching every step. Down the slippery stoney slope to Zubiri. The path is very rocky where sometimes the stone firms natural steps and at other places we walk on the edges or flat slabs. Across the Rio Arga on the Rabies Bridge. We get beds in the private albergue Zaldiko and later enjoy dinner at the bar run by the same family. It is cold and wet in the afternoon so are glad to have finished early.
Day 82- Zubiri to Cizur Menor thru Pamplona. 24.5km
We breakfast at a very modern Cafe de Camino before heading back across the bridge, turn right, and upward. Thru tiny hamlets but so different from France. Most of these have an operating bar or small shop (tienda). Along the narrow path between the rock walls, up and down around the contour of the hills. We stop at Zuriain for coffee right beside the river where we watch the local Parks service add fish by the net full to the river. From here we climb to Irotz, past the church then down to cross the Rio Arga again on the Puente de Iturgaiz, thru the village of Zabaldika before climbing again. Coming into Pamplona there are bright blue and yellow signs a meter square to show the way. Then up thru the old city gates to the cathedral where we get a stamp. Lunch and a look around before heading out past the university to Cizur Menor where we check in with the Knights of Malta who have as their symbol a white Maltese cross on a red background.
Rained in the night and a cool start. Through woods & forests, across small waterways with stones stacked on top of each other to form a bridge. Steep up after Viskarette on corrugated exposed aggregate concrete to give grip on the slope. We meet a family with 2 children walking to Pamplona. Mossy stone walls, narrow pathways watching every step. Down the slippery stoney slope to Zubiri. The path is very rocky where sometimes the stone firms natural steps and at other places we walk on the edges or flat slabs. Across the Rio Arga on the Rabies Bridge. We get beds in the private albergue Zaldiko and later enjoy dinner at the bar run by the same family. It is cold and wet in the afternoon so are glad to have finished early.
Day 82- Zubiri to Cizur Menor thru Pamplona. 24.5km
We breakfast at a very modern Cafe de Camino before heading back across the bridge, turn right, and upward. Thru tiny hamlets but so different from France. Most of these have an operating bar or small shop (tienda). Along the narrow path between the rock walls, up and down around the contour of the hills. We stop at Zuriain for coffee right beside the river where we watch the local Parks service add fish by the net full to the river. From here we climb to Irotz, past the church then down to cross the Rio Arga again on the Puente de Iturgaiz, thru the village of Zabaldika before climbing again. Coming into Pamplona there are bright blue and yellow signs a meter square to show the way. Then up thru the old city gates to the cathedral where we get a stamp. Lunch and a look around before heading out past the university to Cizur Menor where we check in with the Knights of Malta who have as their symbol a white Maltese cross on a red background.
Wednesday, 13 August 2014
Day 80-Spain
Day 80-St Jean Pied de Port - Roncesvalles-28km
How do I explain, the emotions, the feelings? Despite the bed bug bites, despite the rain, it is such an amazing feeling walking up, up, up, through the mist and magic woods across the very ordinary cattle grid into Spain. The last country of my walk across Europe. Lots of other pilgrims, bells clongling from the cows and sheep which can mostly only be heard and not seen. Silhouettes of pilgrims high on the ridge ahead tells us where the path lies. When the breeze blows the mist away there are spectacular views and wild horses high on the grassy mountains, visible against the now blue sky. Suddenly we are at the top 1450m and then it is downhill on a very steep rocky path, thru woods and forests. 3.6km straight down to Roncesvalles. We check in to the old abbey which is staffed by Dutch volunteers who look after the 183 pilgrims who sleep here. Lights go out at 10pm and will come on automatically at 6am. Another step along the final road to Santiago.
Thank you to those who have made a recent donation. As explained previously I cannot send individual thankyous until I get home. God bless each and everyone of you reading my blog. I continue to count my blessings and am thankful for this opportunity to make a difference.
How do I explain, the emotions, the feelings? Despite the bed bug bites, despite the rain, it is such an amazing feeling walking up, up, up, through the mist and magic woods across the very ordinary cattle grid into Spain. The last country of my walk across Europe. Lots of other pilgrims, bells clongling from the cows and sheep which can mostly only be heard and not seen. Silhouettes of pilgrims high on the ridge ahead tells us where the path lies. When the breeze blows the mist away there are spectacular views and wild horses high on the grassy mountains, visible against the now blue sky. Suddenly we are at the top 1450m and then it is downhill on a very steep rocky path, thru woods and forests. 3.6km straight down to Roncesvalles. We check in to the old abbey which is staffed by Dutch volunteers who look after the 183 pilgrims who sleep here. Lights go out at 10pm and will come on automatically at 6am. Another step along the final road to Santiago.
Thank you to those who have made a recent donation. As explained previously I cannot send individual thankyous until I get home. God bless each and everyone of you reading my blog. I continue to count my blessings and am thankful for this opportunity to make a difference.
Day 77-79 to St Jean Pied de Port
Day 77 - Orthez to Sauveterre de Bearn/Osserain 23km
Slept last night in the tower. A special experience with the rain falling on the terracotta roof tops outside the window. We are required to take the road today due to an off road event happening along the pilgrim route. We cross the old Pont de Vieux, heading south thru the suburbs before stopping at Hopital d'Orion. Lots of hilly ups and downs. Getting practice for the Pyrenees to come. Idyllic views, green landscape, blue mountains, white cattle grazing. We stop for lunch under an old oak tree. Have had to tape the back of my boots where the lining had worn. I wonder why??? Lost another lug off my left boot this time. Will tape it later with new tape. We descend into Sauveterre de Bearn where it is market day. Visit the church overlooking the very muddy river. Our wonderful host Pascal picks us up to take us to his home in Osserain. It has been in the family for generations. He cooks a delicious meal and we have a great evening.
Day 78- Osserain to Ostabat - 21km
Damp & humid start, along roads, through the never ending maize fields, long shadows, distant blue hills, beautiful views all around, ancient stones marking the entrance to the old kingdom of Navarre. White cows, irrigation sprinklers, stone crosses, old railway lines to walk on. We are now on Basque territory with names in both French & Basque. The path climbs steeply before descending, past Celtic signs, warm sunshine, 360degree views. More pilgrims on the way now making their way westward. Into Ostabat, uphill of course then through the village, another km to our farm stay. 34 guests here including a group of equestrians.
Day 79- Ostabat to St Jean Pied de Port 20km
A hot & noisy night, and would you believe it bed bugs. They love me. Rain overnight means wet walking today. Misty start, past a stone cross and thru the quiet streets of a small village. The path goes round the contour of the hill. Across the valley we can see a white church with tall steeple and hear the bell tolling 11am. We walk into St Jean Pied de Port after first climbing up to the base of the citadelle standing watch over the town, through the Porte Saint Jacques, and down to the Pilgrim Office where we register as pilgrims and get information on the way across Spain. Later we check in to our refuge for the night, Beilari, right across the street from the Pilgrim Office. We share a communal dinner in the refuge. Another milestone reached.
Slept last night in the tower. A special experience with the rain falling on the terracotta roof tops outside the window. We are required to take the road today due to an off road event happening along the pilgrim route. We cross the old Pont de Vieux, heading south thru the suburbs before stopping at Hopital d'Orion. Lots of hilly ups and downs. Getting practice for the Pyrenees to come. Idyllic views, green landscape, blue mountains, white cattle grazing. We stop for lunch under an old oak tree. Have had to tape the back of my boots where the lining had worn. I wonder why??? Lost another lug off my left boot this time. Will tape it later with new tape. We descend into Sauveterre de Bearn where it is market day. Visit the church overlooking the very muddy river. Our wonderful host Pascal picks us up to take us to his home in Osserain. It has been in the family for generations. He cooks a delicious meal and we have a great evening.
Day 78- Osserain to Ostabat - 21km
Damp & humid start, along roads, through the never ending maize fields, long shadows, distant blue hills, beautiful views all around, ancient stones marking the entrance to the old kingdom of Navarre. White cows, irrigation sprinklers, stone crosses, old railway lines to walk on. We are now on Basque territory with names in both French & Basque. The path climbs steeply before descending, past Celtic signs, warm sunshine, 360degree views. More pilgrims on the way now making their way westward. Into Ostabat, uphill of course then through the village, another km to our farm stay. 34 guests here including a group of equestrians.
Day 79- Ostabat to St Jean Pied de Port 20km
A hot & noisy night, and would you believe it bed bugs. They love me. Rain overnight means wet walking today. Misty start, past a stone cross and thru the quiet streets of a small village. The path goes round the contour of the hill. Across the valley we can see a white church with tall steeple and hear the bell tolling 11am. We walk into St Jean Pied de Port after first climbing up to the base of the citadelle standing watch over the town, through the Porte Saint Jacques, and down to the Pilgrim Office where we register as pilgrims and get information on the way across Spain. Later we check in to our refuge for the night, Beilari, right across the street from the Pilgrim Office. We share a communal dinner in the refuge. Another milestone reached.
Saturday, 9 August 2014
Day 75-76 St Sever to Orthez
Day 75-Thur 7/8- St Sever to Beyries 28kms
I start the day by making an omelette for breakfast. Good walking food. Out through the town, past an iron cross and, hanging on one door, a baguette tucked under the knocker. This mornings bread delivery? More fields of maize, about the only crop visible around here, down along the stream, turn left across the bridge past sunflowers which have lost their golden coulor and are hanging their heads. We pass a mill house with a clear stream of water & pretty flower filled garden. I have noticed the difference between this region and areas further north. Here communities seem more prosperous with more visible activity, life (people) and well kept farms, less tumbledown. More road walking. Gently undulating, under a railway bridge, past the man with his scythe over his shoulder and on into Hagetmau. Here we get supplies for tonight as there is nothing in the village we are staying in. After leaving Hagetmau we take a detour to stop at a restaurant for a hot meal. The workers are there having lunch and it is busy. We go with the menu of the day, cold seafood pasta, beef skewers swimming in a plate of peas then prune flan to finish. We reconnect with our pilgrim route down another road, past the white angel statue and into Labastide-Chalosse. Up a long hill then down and another long uphill. The bitumen is hot with little shade to give us some respite. The road rises and rises until Argelos. Then a sharp steep descent followed by an equivalent ascent then another steep down and up until finally we get to Beyries. Here we are staying in the community centre. Rather basic to say the least. I get an army stretcher which is actually quite comfortable. The shower consists of a shower rose situated on the wall just above and between 2 urinals. There is a plastic square grid to stand on with the drain hole in the floor half a metre away. Interesting but at least the water was hot. Just another experience on the pilgrim way across France.
Day 76- Beyries to Orthez 17 km
We start in the misty morning. Everything feels damp but no rain and for that we are thankful. Past more new housing developments, and old buildings being renovated. New signage for the way now. It changes from region to region although a general theme of yellow arrow and blue stylised scallop shell is the underlying design. Plenty of ups and downs as we go through hills and valleys, between the ever present fields of maize/corn. We stop in Sault de Navailles for breakfast. Plenty of today with home made fig conserve, orange juice & coffee. Across the river on an old stone bridge, views across the fields and then our first eucalypt trees. I have to pick some to carry along for the day. Smells of home. Along the way here a friends group has planted fruit trees for future pilgrims to enjoy. More forest paths, under the chestnut trees, then past the agricultural school and the goose farm with lots of goslings hissing gently altogether. We descend into the medieval centre of Orthez, past the high tower Moncade, through the narrow streets to the church square. Here we have a delicious lunch then at 2pm we can check into the Pilgrim Refuge at Hotel de Lune, an ancient tall tower where we climb the spiral staircase to the 2nd floor. Just like Rapunzel's tower, overlooking a neat little courtyard with herb gardens in raised beds. So blessed to experience all this.
I start the day by making an omelette for breakfast. Good walking food. Out through the town, past an iron cross and, hanging on one door, a baguette tucked under the knocker. This mornings bread delivery? More fields of maize, about the only crop visible around here, down along the stream, turn left across the bridge past sunflowers which have lost their golden coulor and are hanging their heads. We pass a mill house with a clear stream of water & pretty flower filled garden. I have noticed the difference between this region and areas further north. Here communities seem more prosperous with more visible activity, life (people) and well kept farms, less tumbledown. More road walking. Gently undulating, under a railway bridge, past the man with his scythe over his shoulder and on into Hagetmau. Here we get supplies for tonight as there is nothing in the village we are staying in. After leaving Hagetmau we take a detour to stop at a restaurant for a hot meal. The workers are there having lunch and it is busy. We go with the menu of the day, cold seafood pasta, beef skewers swimming in a plate of peas then prune flan to finish. We reconnect with our pilgrim route down another road, past the white angel statue and into Labastide-Chalosse. Up a long hill then down and another long uphill. The bitumen is hot with little shade to give us some respite. The road rises and rises until Argelos. Then a sharp steep descent followed by an equivalent ascent then another steep down and up until finally we get to Beyries. Here we are staying in the community centre. Rather basic to say the least. I get an army stretcher which is actually quite comfortable. The shower consists of a shower rose situated on the wall just above and between 2 urinals. There is a plastic square grid to stand on with the drain hole in the floor half a metre away. Interesting but at least the water was hot. Just another experience on the pilgrim way across France.
Day 76- Beyries to Orthez 17 km
We start in the misty morning. Everything feels damp but no rain and for that we are thankful. Past more new housing developments, and old buildings being renovated. New signage for the way now. It changes from region to region although a general theme of yellow arrow and blue stylised scallop shell is the underlying design. Plenty of ups and downs as we go through hills and valleys, between the ever present fields of maize/corn. We stop in Sault de Navailles for breakfast. Plenty of today with home made fig conserve, orange juice & coffee. Across the river on an old stone bridge, views across the fields and then our first eucalypt trees. I have to pick some to carry along for the day. Smells of home. Along the way here a friends group has planted fruit trees for future pilgrims to enjoy. More forest paths, under the chestnut trees, then past the agricultural school and the goose farm with lots of goslings hissing gently altogether. We descend into the medieval centre of Orthez, past the high tower Moncade, through the narrow streets to the church square. Here we have a delicious lunch then at 2pm we can check into the Pilgrim Refuge at Hotel de Lune, an ancient tall tower where we climb the spiral staircase to the 2nd floor. Just like Rapunzel's tower, overlooking a neat little courtyard with herb gardens in raised beds. So blessed to experience all this.
Days 72-74 on the road to Spain
Day 72- Mon 4/8-Captieux to Roquefort 34 kms
Back to the old railway line again which we follow for much of the day. Flat & straight, heathland, moors and pine forests. The ferns are tall under the pine trees, lots of sweet ripe blackberries to pick along the way. We stop in Bourriot for lunch but nothing is available at the bar/restaurant so we get a cold drink & some cheese which we devour with a croissant and potato chips we have with us. From here the path goes back to the railway track. The weather is warm, no shade straight & flat. Again we enter forest which winds right and left and right and left and finally make it into Roquefort at 4.30pm.
8and a half hours. A tough day but we soon refresh and recuperate at the refuge run by Friends of the Camino which has all modern facilities.
Day 73- Roquefort - Mont de Marsan -30kms
We plan a shorter day today to see how we go. We are soon walking off road which is very pleasant although sandy which kicks up into our boots requiring regular stops to tip it out. Pretty wild flowers. In the small hamlet of Bostens we come across a room attached to the church where pilgrims can take a break and make a coffee. A delightful oasis to enjoy. We walk on into Gailleries where we have a cd drink then head off again. Sparse tall pine trees all that's left of a former plantation. Clouds are really pretty today in the blue blue sky. 3 fighter jets scream overhead. There is a base nearby and we hear noisy take offs all night. In Bougue where we had planned to stay the bar has no bread or sandwiches or food to buy so we continue on to Mont de Marsan. Up the hill, turn left then right onto a paved bicycle track/ footpath. The old railway line again. We make it into Mont de Marsan at 4.30 and are quickly settled in to our refuge for the night. An old building with high ceilings but hot and noisy. There are 6 altogether. Another day closer to Spain.
Day 74- Mont de Marsan to St Sever - 20km
We start with coffee and pastries at the local boulangerie. It takes a while to get out of town but then we go through the middle of a ploughed paddock. Ploughed except for the track we are on. In Benquet there is a new housing development being built. Underground centralised waste disposal system installed with all the other services. Very smart. Through corn fields, along the bitumen road, then off road up the hill with sandy soil, grassy and deep tracks so we walk on the high ground in the middle. Back on bitumen which is now hot from the sun which has been shining since early morning. We track alongside a freeway then around the small village of St Eulallie before crossing the very muddy Adour river, turn left past the broken iron cross and take the last steep stony track to the historic centre of St Sever. Here we check in to our refuge at the Tourism Office then relax with a meal on the town square. Another great day in the south of France.
Back to the old railway line again which we follow for much of the day. Flat & straight, heathland, moors and pine forests. The ferns are tall under the pine trees, lots of sweet ripe blackberries to pick along the way. We stop in Bourriot for lunch but nothing is available at the bar/restaurant so we get a cold drink & some cheese which we devour with a croissant and potato chips we have with us. From here the path goes back to the railway track. The weather is warm, no shade straight & flat. Again we enter forest which winds right and left and right and left and finally make it into Roquefort at 4.30pm.
8and a half hours. A tough day but we soon refresh and recuperate at the refuge run by Friends of the Camino which has all modern facilities.
Day 73- Roquefort - Mont de Marsan -30kms
We plan a shorter day today to see how we go. We are soon walking off road which is very pleasant although sandy which kicks up into our boots requiring regular stops to tip it out. Pretty wild flowers. In the small hamlet of Bostens we come across a room attached to the church where pilgrims can take a break and make a coffee. A delightful oasis to enjoy. We walk on into Gailleries where we have a cd drink then head off again. Sparse tall pine trees all that's left of a former plantation. Clouds are really pretty today in the blue blue sky. 3 fighter jets scream overhead. There is a base nearby and we hear noisy take offs all night. In Bougue where we had planned to stay the bar has no bread or sandwiches or food to buy so we continue on to Mont de Marsan. Up the hill, turn left then right onto a paved bicycle track/ footpath. The old railway line again. We make it into Mont de Marsan at 4.30 and are quickly settled in to our refuge for the night. An old building with high ceilings but hot and noisy. There are 6 altogether. Another day closer to Spain.
Day 74- Mont de Marsan to St Sever - 20km
We start with coffee and pastries at the local boulangerie. It takes a while to get out of town but then we go through the middle of a ploughed paddock. Ploughed except for the track we are on. In Benquet there is a new housing development being built. Underground centralised waste disposal system installed with all the other services. Very smart. Through corn fields, along the bitumen road, then off road up the hill with sandy soil, grassy and deep tracks so we walk on the high ground in the middle. Back on bitumen which is now hot from the sun which has been shining since early morning. We track alongside a freeway then around the small village of St Eulallie before crossing the very muddy Adour river, turn left past the broken iron cross and take the last steep stony track to the historic centre of St Sever. Here we check in to our refuge at the Tourism Office then relax with a meal on the town square. Another great day in the south of France.
Day 69-71 Chemin de St Jacques Voie de Vezelay
Day 69- Saint Ferme-La Reole (Pondaurat) 20km
A light breakfast. I'm being kind here. We supplement it with croissants & pastries from the boulangerie. Up past the cemetery, along the road with tall maize/corn & grape vines growing in fields. Gentle ups and downs. Have noticed for some time what look like old grinding wheels from mills sitting like guard dogs at the entrance to farms or at gateways and even on corners. This is later confirmed by our hosts that the large stone wheels were indeed once used to grind grain, usually turned by a donkey or a horse. Up and over a rise and no more grapevines, but more sunflowers with their bright yellow faces turned towards the sun, past the donkeys and it's time to take a break at the cemetery in Roquebrune. Here Judi has a turn at winding the brass knob on the water fountain to produce lovely cold fresh drinking water. More bitumen, another grinding stone, and finally we leave the bitumen. For all of 6/7 minutes. Entering La Reole we pass the former residence of the Black Prince, turn left around the Hotel de Ville Ancien, where Richard the Lionheart lived at some stage. We sit nearby to have lunch and very bravely order a bottle of Artisan cider made in Brittany which we drink from pottery bowls. It smells like the farmyards we have been passing thru (very earthy) and although very dry was quite drinkable. Our host picks us up at the church and off we go to settle into the farmhouse at Pondaurat. But first we visit the church there which, at 4pm, has the bells ringing, in unison with all other churches across France in remembrance of 100 yrs since the start of World War 1. Part of history. We have an amazing evening with our hosts Nicole & Michel and their friends.
Day 70- Sat 2/8- Pondaurat to Bazas
Judi leaves us this morning to meet up with her Aussie friends to hike Mont Blanc. And then there were 2 pilgrims again. We set off across the stone medieval bridge, past the Chateau and on into Savignac where we buy provisions got the way. Off road for a while which is easier on the feet & less wearing on the boots. Through the forest where hunters are setting up their very extensive hides for the upcoming hunting season. The way takes us on an uphill climb for several kms past hazelnut trees under irrigation. In Brouqueyran we take a short detour to visit the 11thC church where we sit on a tombstone to eat our lunch and refill water bottles. The route here has recently changed and is much longer going round the chateau, down to the lake, around the lake then a steep climb up thru the forest of ancient oaks. Finally into Bazas where our host Elienne picks us up. A beautiful modern home with gorgeous garden. Gilbert & Elienne make us feel at home as we enjoy a delightful meal alfresco.
Day 71- Bazas to Captieux- 18km
We visit the boulangerie before heading off along the old railway line. Overcast and sunny in patches. Delightful walking, flat except where the original bridges are gone & we have to scramble down the back up again. The cicadas are noisy and when they go quiet we know it is on with the wet weather gear. Lots of thunder & lightning then down comes the rain. Nowhere to take shelter we go on. Drenched through in no time at all. Squelching/sloshing in our boots. We finally come on a farm shed where we take cover after navigating the pond in the yard. Here we hang ourselves out to dry and wait for more than an hour before walking the last 4kms into Captieux. We find our way to the Pilgrim Refuge where we are soon comfortable. After visiting the local corner shop I whip up dinner and relax with a bottle of wine. So blessed to have all our needs met.
A light breakfast. I'm being kind here. We supplement it with croissants & pastries from the boulangerie. Up past the cemetery, along the road with tall maize/corn & grape vines growing in fields. Gentle ups and downs. Have noticed for some time what look like old grinding wheels from mills sitting like guard dogs at the entrance to farms or at gateways and even on corners. This is later confirmed by our hosts that the large stone wheels were indeed once used to grind grain, usually turned by a donkey or a horse. Up and over a rise and no more grapevines, but more sunflowers with their bright yellow faces turned towards the sun, past the donkeys and it's time to take a break at the cemetery in Roquebrune. Here Judi has a turn at winding the brass knob on the water fountain to produce lovely cold fresh drinking water. More bitumen, another grinding stone, and finally we leave the bitumen. For all of 6/7 minutes. Entering La Reole we pass the former residence of the Black Prince, turn left around the Hotel de Ville Ancien, where Richard the Lionheart lived at some stage. We sit nearby to have lunch and very bravely order a bottle of Artisan cider made in Brittany which we drink from pottery bowls. It smells like the farmyards we have been passing thru (very earthy) and although very dry was quite drinkable. Our host picks us up at the church and off we go to settle into the farmhouse at Pondaurat. But first we visit the church there which, at 4pm, has the bells ringing, in unison with all other churches across France in remembrance of 100 yrs since the start of World War 1. Part of history. We have an amazing evening with our hosts Nicole & Michel and their friends.
Day 70- Sat 2/8- Pondaurat to Bazas
Judi leaves us this morning to meet up with her Aussie friends to hike Mont Blanc. And then there were 2 pilgrims again. We set off across the stone medieval bridge, past the Chateau and on into Savignac where we buy provisions got the way. Off road for a while which is easier on the feet & less wearing on the boots. Through the forest where hunters are setting up their very extensive hides for the upcoming hunting season. The way takes us on an uphill climb for several kms past hazelnut trees under irrigation. In Brouqueyran we take a short detour to visit the 11thC church where we sit on a tombstone to eat our lunch and refill water bottles. The route here has recently changed and is much longer going round the chateau, down to the lake, around the lake then a steep climb up thru the forest of ancient oaks. Finally into Bazas where our host Elienne picks us up. A beautiful modern home with gorgeous garden. Gilbert & Elienne make us feel at home as we enjoy a delightful meal alfresco.
Day 71- Bazas to Captieux- 18km
We visit the boulangerie before heading off along the old railway line. Overcast and sunny in patches. Delightful walking, flat except where the original bridges are gone & we have to scramble down the back up again. The cicadas are noisy and when they go quiet we know it is on with the wet weather gear. Lots of thunder & lightning then down comes the rain. Nowhere to take shelter we go on. Drenched through in no time at all. Squelching/sloshing in our boots. We finally come on a farm shed where we take cover after navigating the pond in the yard. Here we hang ourselves out to dry and wait for more than an hour before walking the last 4kms into Captieux. We find our way to the Pilgrim Refuge where we are soon comfortable. After visiting the local corner shop I whip up dinner and relax with a bottle of wine. So blessed to have all our needs met.
Thursday, 31 July 2014
Day 64-68 On the Voie de Vezelay in France
Day 64-Perigeux to St Astier - Sun 27/7. 27 kms
We start the day in style with a buffet breakfast. Yay!! Not just bread & jam. Despite the route bring recently changed route marking is not good. A few wrong turns are later corrected. Lots of ups and downs, stoney paths, a long stretch of bitumen thru the woods/forests. Warm and sunny. We take time to visit the abbey if Chancelade where we meet a local lady who shows us around. We sit on a small bridge dangling our legs to eat a snack. We pass through only a couple of small hamlets with no services. Walking route signs are most confusing. After 18km we get a cold drink at Gravelle then along the canal, past a stone cross. The way is very rough on the steep descent into St Astier. Our accommodation is right on the river and very comfortable.
Day 65- St Astier-Mussidan. 24+km
Breakfast table set beautifully on the terrace, under cover, overlooking the river. We try to make a booking for tonight but can get only 2 beds & there are 3 of us. A rocky path and forest tracks. We start in drizzle but later, without warning it starts to rain. On with the rain gear and shelter for a while under the chestnut trees. We set off again , through the forests in the rain. We spy a hut and take shelter for a while waiting for the rain to ease. From St Louis sur l'Isle signage is poor and we end up taking the road for the last 5 kms, in the rain into Mussidan. 9 hours on the road today. After getting to the refuge the concierge finally comes around at 8pm to collect the money and stamp our passports and to tell Jean-Pierre he has a bed in another municipal building across the square. Together with the other pilgrims we enjoy a communal meal. They go off to the concert in the market square. I can hear the music as I lie in my bunk & write my journal.
Day 66- Tues 29/7 - Mussidan - St Foy la Grande. 33km
Up at an incredibly early hour of 5.45. The other pilgrims leave shortly after 6. It will be a long day. We buy food at the local boulangerie for the road. Through the forest on a track, past a field with mist on the ground, upwards on a grassy wide track, fields on one side woods on the other. Through bush land with bright yellow flowered prickly gorse and tall ferns. Plump blackberries damp with the morning dew. After the hamlet of St Gery we are on bitumen virtually all the way. In Montfaucon we have a picnic lunch and help ourselves to the fresh purple plums off the tree in front of the Mairie. The path eventually leaves the road up a very steep and rocky path beside the vines. The final descent into St Foy la Grande is on a steep, narrow, rocky path through woods, then a grassy meadow and across the bridge over the Dordogne river. Walking towards the church I meet my friend Christine who will host us at her home nearby. A stamp from the church, a cold drink and the day of walking is finally over. It has been a tough 3 days of walking and we are all tired so when Christine & Alan offer for us to stay another night we accept with pleasure.
Day 67- Wed 30/7- Lanquais
A rest day of enjoying friendship and hospitality. Lots of reminiscing and laughter as well as a walk with the dog Ellie, past the Chateau du Lanquais. Champagne at night to celebrate Judi's birthday.
Day 68- Thur 31/7- Pellegrue to Saint Ferme 8km
A lazy start so Christine & Alan drive us to Pellegrue where we have a drink together before walking on. A short day through vineyards, woods & fields of corn, past the iron cross and the abbey of San Ferme. We can check into the refuge only after 4pm so we spend some time nodding under the chestnut tree and in the church. 2 German pilgrims arrive towing a trailer. She sleeps in the chapel at the church snoring. They have chosen not to eat our communal meal tonight so, together with our hospitaleros we will be 5 at the dinner table.
We start the day in style with a buffet breakfast. Yay!! Not just bread & jam. Despite the route bring recently changed route marking is not good. A few wrong turns are later corrected. Lots of ups and downs, stoney paths, a long stretch of bitumen thru the woods/forests. Warm and sunny. We take time to visit the abbey if Chancelade where we meet a local lady who shows us around. We sit on a small bridge dangling our legs to eat a snack. We pass through only a couple of small hamlets with no services. Walking route signs are most confusing. After 18km we get a cold drink at Gravelle then along the canal, past a stone cross. The way is very rough on the steep descent into St Astier. Our accommodation is right on the river and very comfortable.
Day 65- St Astier-Mussidan. 24+km
Breakfast table set beautifully on the terrace, under cover, overlooking the river. We try to make a booking for tonight but can get only 2 beds & there are 3 of us. A rocky path and forest tracks. We start in drizzle but later, without warning it starts to rain. On with the rain gear and shelter for a while under the chestnut trees. We set off again , through the forests in the rain. We spy a hut and take shelter for a while waiting for the rain to ease. From St Louis sur l'Isle signage is poor and we end up taking the road for the last 5 kms, in the rain into Mussidan. 9 hours on the road today. After getting to the refuge the concierge finally comes around at 8pm to collect the money and stamp our passports and to tell Jean-Pierre he has a bed in another municipal building across the square. Together with the other pilgrims we enjoy a communal meal. They go off to the concert in the market square. I can hear the music as I lie in my bunk & write my journal.
Day 66- Tues 29/7 - Mussidan - St Foy la Grande. 33km
Up at an incredibly early hour of 5.45. The other pilgrims leave shortly after 6. It will be a long day. We buy food at the local boulangerie for the road. Through the forest on a track, past a field with mist on the ground, upwards on a grassy wide track, fields on one side woods on the other. Through bush land with bright yellow flowered prickly gorse and tall ferns. Plump blackberries damp with the morning dew. After the hamlet of St Gery we are on bitumen virtually all the way. In Montfaucon we have a picnic lunch and help ourselves to the fresh purple plums off the tree in front of the Mairie. The path eventually leaves the road up a very steep and rocky path beside the vines. The final descent into St Foy la Grande is on a steep, narrow, rocky path through woods, then a grassy meadow and across the bridge over the Dordogne river. Walking towards the church I meet my friend Christine who will host us at her home nearby. A stamp from the church, a cold drink and the day of walking is finally over. It has been a tough 3 days of walking and we are all tired so when Christine & Alan offer for us to stay another night we accept with pleasure.
Day 67- Wed 30/7- Lanquais
A rest day of enjoying friendship and hospitality. Lots of reminiscing and laughter as well as a walk with the dog Ellie, past the Chateau du Lanquais. Champagne at night to celebrate Judi's birthday.
Day 68- Thur 31/7- Pellegrue to Saint Ferme 8km
A lazy start so Christine & Alan drive us to Pellegrue where we have a drink together before walking on. A short day through vineyards, woods & fields of corn, past the iron cross and the abbey of San Ferme. We can check into the refuge only after 4pm so we spend some time nodding under the chestnut tree and in the church. 2 German pilgrims arrive towing a trailer. She sleeps in the chapel at the church snoring. They have chosen not to eat our communal meal tonight so, together with our hospitaleros we will be 5 at the dinner table.
Wednesday, 30 July 2014
Day 60-63 in the south of France
Day 60-La Coquille to Thiviers-21km
Green fields, haybales, cattle, views across the valleys, warm, still and humid. Along forest paths, climbing upwards and descending through rural countryside. Into Thiviers in time for lunch of goats cheese salad. Lovely B&B overlooking a picturesque valley. Sharing with a French girl Nathalie.
Day 61-Thiviers to Sorges-18+kms
Dutch style breakfast from our Dutch hosts, includes bread, ham & cheese. Start off by visiting the boulangerie and the big duck then past the old stone cross, we leave the road down a leafy lane with colourful hollyhocks against the ancient stone wall. Under the viaduct, grassy paths through open fields and grasslands. The countryside is changing as we go deeper into the Perigord. Home if foie gras and truffles. We pass through an orchard of newly planted walnut trees as well as more mature plantations. Hazelnut and chestnut trees line the path and we also get to eat the luscious fat blackberries. Cool drink and icecream at the recently opened bar in Negrondes then head off in the hot sunshine stoney unmade paths. No mud today which makes a pleasant change. We stay at a refuge managed by the friends of the Chemin de St Jacques. Community meal with our warden and other pilgrims.
Day 62-Fri 25/7-Sorges to Perigeux.
Today we are walking with Nathalie the French pilgrim. Along farm tracks and forest paths. New signage for the new route here is very good. Between ancient stone walls. If only the stones could talk. We pass through a delightful camping area with permanent tents. Lots if Dutch families enjoying their summer break. Past the Chateau of Caussade behind a high fence. We stop for lunch on the outskirts of Perigeux before taking on the bitumen walking into the city. We go directly to the new pilgrim refuge which is new - since April. Welcomed by our wardens with a cold drink we settle in before going out to explore the old town.
Day 63- In Perigeux - a rest day.
Today the Tour de France is coming to town on the last stage (20) before Paris. We get a spot right at the barricades 250 metres before the finish line. Lots of festivities before the first of the celebrity cyclists arrive in a pack- fundraising for a children's charity. Late morning the first of the competitors arrive, first the motorcycle escort with lights flashing, then the cyclist who is followed closely by the support cars with the name of the competitor on the front. Here is where I get a photo of Dempster, one of the Australians. It all flashes by in an instant. Great fun. I go off for a while then return to see the last 20 or so of the top riders. We wait up to meet Judi off the last train into Perigeux after 11pm.
Green fields, haybales, cattle, views across the valleys, warm, still and humid. Along forest paths, climbing upwards and descending through rural countryside. Into Thiviers in time for lunch of goats cheese salad. Lovely B&B overlooking a picturesque valley. Sharing with a French girl Nathalie.
Day 61-Thiviers to Sorges-18+kms
Dutch style breakfast from our Dutch hosts, includes bread, ham & cheese. Start off by visiting the boulangerie and the big duck then past the old stone cross, we leave the road down a leafy lane with colourful hollyhocks against the ancient stone wall. Under the viaduct, grassy paths through open fields and grasslands. The countryside is changing as we go deeper into the Perigord. Home if foie gras and truffles. We pass through an orchard of newly planted walnut trees as well as more mature plantations. Hazelnut and chestnut trees line the path and we also get to eat the luscious fat blackberries. Cool drink and icecream at the recently opened bar in Negrondes then head off in the hot sunshine stoney unmade paths. No mud today which makes a pleasant change. We stay at a refuge managed by the friends of the Chemin de St Jacques. Community meal with our warden and other pilgrims.
Day 62-Fri 25/7-Sorges to Perigeux.
Today we are walking with Nathalie the French pilgrim. Along farm tracks and forest paths. New signage for the new route here is very good. Between ancient stone walls. If only the stones could talk. We pass through a delightful camping area with permanent tents. Lots if Dutch families enjoying their summer break. Past the Chateau of Caussade behind a high fence. We stop for lunch on the outskirts of Perigeux before taking on the bitumen walking into the city. We go directly to the new pilgrim refuge which is new - since April. Welcomed by our wardens with a cold drink we settle in before going out to explore the old town.
Day 63- In Perigeux - a rest day.
Today the Tour de France is coming to town on the last stage (20) before Paris. We get a spot right at the barricades 250 metres before the finish line. Lots of festivities before the first of the celebrity cyclists arrive in a pack- fundraising for a children's charity. Late morning the first of the competitors arrive, first the motorcycle escort with lights flashing, then the cyclist who is followed closely by the support cars with the name of the competitor on the front. Here is where I get a photo of Dempster, one of the Australians. It all flashes by in an instant. Great fun. I go off for a while then return to see the last 20 or so of the top riders. We wait up to meet Judi off the last train into Perigeux after 11pm.
Tuesday, 22 July 2014
La Coquille, France Days 58-59
Day 58-Mon 21/7- Saint-Martin-le-Vieux to Chalus. 17km
Skies are overcast as we set off just after 9am. It's a short day so the late start is not a problem. Today tho proved to be bitumen and more bitumen. Fortunately we can mostly use the centre of the road where there is no camber. Walking for many kms with one leg lower than the other can lead to all sorts of foot, ankle, hip, back & shoulder problems as being lopsided with a backpack is not good.
We pass a small stone hut standing alone in a grassy paddock, then, at the crossroads at Lavignac, a white iron cross with red flowers adorning it. Then it's uphill the 3 kms to Flavignac where we enjoy our morning coffee in a tiny little room, at the epicerie/bar/regional produce store, which we share with shelves of books and a photographic studio ( backdrop, lights & camera). The way takes us past another small stone cross set high on a stone pillar. The road continues to rise before us, past an old well, whispering firs, warm and overcast. Fields of green lucerne, hay bales and cattle. Along the sides of the path are chestnut, hazelnut and plum trees as well as blackberries with the occasional plump ripe berry just waiting for me to pick it. Sometimes it is so dark in the forest we almost need a light to see. We watch every step. Arrive in Chalus at 1.30 and have a meal at the local bar before calling our host who will pick us up to go to the gite which is out of town. Very comfortable room, sunny outdoor area and comfy beds. A real retreat. Dinner is delicious and we get to eat with our hosts which is a nice way to end the day.
Day 59- Chalus to La Coquille 17km
Breakfast is served at 8. Yoghurt, fresh bread with home made jams and I get to enjoy the home pressed apple juice which is served in an antique red cut glass wine glass. We drink our coffee from fine porcelain cups, the size of noodle bowls. Just a lovely way to start the day. We are driven back into town to start our walking where we left off yesterday. Down the hill to the viaduct then uphill, off road, through the long grass just to make sure our boots get wet, between the tall fields of maize growing either side, then into a dark forest, with a mudflat, puddly path. At Le Lac we watch as a farmer talks to his sick bull which is lying down and which, when it does get up just staggers around then lies down again. At Montchaty the track goes around the manor house with its long, high stone walls, white gates, and complex of stone buildings. We take a coffee break at Firbeix which is on the very busy N21, the major transport road to Spain. The road leads us past fields up and down.
A small deer crosses in front of us. All day we can hear water running & tumbling in nearby waterways, many of which we cross either on little bridges. We arrive in La Coquille at 1.30 in time to have lunch and a cold drink before the refuge opens at 4.30.
Skies are overcast as we set off just after 9am. It's a short day so the late start is not a problem. Today tho proved to be bitumen and more bitumen. Fortunately we can mostly use the centre of the road where there is no camber. Walking for many kms with one leg lower than the other can lead to all sorts of foot, ankle, hip, back & shoulder problems as being lopsided with a backpack is not good.
We pass a small stone hut standing alone in a grassy paddock, then, at the crossroads at Lavignac, a white iron cross with red flowers adorning it. Then it's uphill the 3 kms to Flavignac where we enjoy our morning coffee in a tiny little room, at the epicerie/bar/regional produce store, which we share with shelves of books and a photographic studio ( backdrop, lights & camera). The way takes us past another small stone cross set high on a stone pillar. The road continues to rise before us, past an old well, whispering firs, warm and overcast. Fields of green lucerne, hay bales and cattle. Along the sides of the path are chestnut, hazelnut and plum trees as well as blackberries with the occasional plump ripe berry just waiting for me to pick it. Sometimes it is so dark in the forest we almost need a light to see. We watch every step. Arrive in Chalus at 1.30 and have a meal at the local bar before calling our host who will pick us up to go to the gite which is out of town. Very comfortable room, sunny outdoor area and comfy beds. A real retreat. Dinner is delicious and we get to eat with our hosts which is a nice way to end the day.
Day 59- Chalus to La Coquille 17km
Breakfast is served at 8. Yoghurt, fresh bread with home made jams and I get to enjoy the home pressed apple juice which is served in an antique red cut glass wine glass. We drink our coffee from fine porcelain cups, the size of noodle bowls. Just a lovely way to start the day. We are driven back into town to start our walking where we left off yesterday. Down the hill to the viaduct then uphill, off road, through the long grass just to make sure our boots get wet, between the tall fields of maize growing either side, then into a dark forest, with a mudflat, puddly path. At Le Lac we watch as a farmer talks to his sick bull which is lying down and which, when it does get up just staggers around then lies down again. At Montchaty the track goes around the manor house with its long, high stone walls, white gates, and complex of stone buildings. We take a coffee break at Firbeix which is on the very busy N21, the major transport road to Spain. The road leads us past fields up and down.
A small deer crosses in front of us. All day we can hear water running & tumbling in nearby waterways, many of which we cross either on little bridges. We arrive in La Coquille at 1.30 in time to have lunch and a cold drink before the refuge opens at 4.30.
Monday, 21 July 2014
Chalus, France 21 July
Good wifi. Seems to be improving the further south we go. Thankyou to those of you who have recently made a donation to Hamlin Fistula. Unfortunately I am unable to send proper thankyous through the website as I only have my iPhone & not a computer, and I don't have emails for everyone either. So a very big thankyou from me to you. Your donation will not only give someone a new life but in the training of midwives work towards preventing birth related injuries in the future.
Days 54-57
Benevent l'Abbaye to Chatelus-le-Marcheix to Saint-Leonard de Noblat to Limoges to Saint-Martin-le-Vieux to Chalus.
France is flashing by under my boots as I track south west towards the Spanish border. Weather has generally been kind, at least during walking hours, although we did get 2 days in a row over 30C. The landscape is changing to more hilly countryside which also means more lakes, ponds and expanses if water. We pass thru l'Abbaye, a tiny hamlet with a collection of stone buildings, formerly a priory for nuns, built in 1278. Long uphill climbs, often on muddy forest tracks that would be a watercourse when raining. The road takes us downhill then for almost 9kms.
From Chatelus we make an early start because the forecast is for hot weather & we have 30km to do. Today we pass thru some very scenic hamlets, really just a collection of houses. The off road sections of the trail are very overgrown which means our boots are soon wet from the heavy dew. In St Leonard we stay at the municipal gite next door to the church. Here we meet up with Jose from 2 days ago and also Siets, the Dutch Kiwi we last saw in Vezelay when she went the northern route via Bourges and we chose the southern route via Nevers. All through the night the clock on the church chimes every quarter hour and twice on the hour. Sounds like it is in the room with us.
We leave St Leonard as a group of 4 heading for Limoges. Apart from a short light shower we have fine weather. Along the road, across the paddocks, climbing hills and descending to valleys. After coffee at Eytiar (no milk available???) it is a very busy road heading into Limoges. We eventually get off road firs few hundre metres before getting into the residential area. Quiet streets and finally down to the Pont St Etienne across the Vienne river. Here we can follow the brass scallop shells in the cobblestone pavement that leads us up the steep winding path to the cathedral of St Etienne. Another milestone to make it to Limoges. Here we stay with the sisters of St Francis of Assisi, next door to the cathedral. At night another heavy thunderstorm with lightning, thunder and hailstones the size of marbles hammering on our roof window above my bed.
It's Sunday when we tackle the southern suburbs as we exit Limoges. We walk for hours along streets and roads in built up areas, apart from a short off road section where we pass a paddock with turkeys and geese. Foie Gras anyone?? We cross the bridge at Aixe-sur-Vienne, head up the hill and find a bar to have a drink and a break. Shortly after the suburbs are gone and we are back in rural France. The way takes us on a quiet country road beside a river which we can hear rushing and tumbling through mill races beside us. There are several old mills along this road. When we do catch a glimpse of the river we can see it is muddy and swollen from last nights thunderstorms. There is also evidence of the storm on the road which is littered with shredded leaves, limbs and fallen trees. Shortly after crossing the Aixette on a stone bridge we come across a pile of hailstones, still not melted at 11.30, despite the warm sunny day. We pass Chateau Judie, before crossing another stone bridge, turning right at the stone cross, and heading up the hill to Saint-Martin-le-Vieux. Here we enjoy a barbecue lunch of local (Limousin) sausages and crepes, with a group of bikers who have come to enjoy the fete. On and upward for another km before arriving at our gite where we are staying. A delightful goat farm where the lady of the house also makes goats cheese. We get to try some at dinner. Delicious.
Days 54-57
Benevent l'Abbaye to Chatelus-le-Marcheix to Saint-Leonard de Noblat to Limoges to Saint-Martin-le-Vieux to Chalus.
France is flashing by under my boots as I track south west towards the Spanish border. Weather has generally been kind, at least during walking hours, although we did get 2 days in a row over 30C. The landscape is changing to more hilly countryside which also means more lakes, ponds and expanses if water. We pass thru l'Abbaye, a tiny hamlet with a collection of stone buildings, formerly a priory for nuns, built in 1278. Long uphill climbs, often on muddy forest tracks that would be a watercourse when raining. The road takes us downhill then for almost 9kms.
From Chatelus we make an early start because the forecast is for hot weather & we have 30km to do. Today we pass thru some very scenic hamlets, really just a collection of houses. The off road sections of the trail are very overgrown which means our boots are soon wet from the heavy dew. In St Leonard we stay at the municipal gite next door to the church. Here we meet up with Jose from 2 days ago and also Siets, the Dutch Kiwi we last saw in Vezelay when she went the northern route via Bourges and we chose the southern route via Nevers. All through the night the clock on the church chimes every quarter hour and twice on the hour. Sounds like it is in the room with us.
We leave St Leonard as a group of 4 heading for Limoges. Apart from a short light shower we have fine weather. Along the road, across the paddocks, climbing hills and descending to valleys. After coffee at Eytiar (no milk available???) it is a very busy road heading into Limoges. We eventually get off road firs few hundre metres before getting into the residential area. Quiet streets and finally down to the Pont St Etienne across the Vienne river. Here we can follow the brass scallop shells in the cobblestone pavement that leads us up the steep winding path to the cathedral of St Etienne. Another milestone to make it to Limoges. Here we stay with the sisters of St Francis of Assisi, next door to the cathedral. At night another heavy thunderstorm with lightning, thunder and hailstones the size of marbles hammering on our roof window above my bed.
It's Sunday when we tackle the southern suburbs as we exit Limoges. We walk for hours along streets and roads in built up areas, apart from a short off road section where we pass a paddock with turkeys and geese. Foie Gras anyone?? We cross the bridge at Aixe-sur-Vienne, head up the hill and find a bar to have a drink and a break. Shortly after the suburbs are gone and we are back in rural France. The way takes us on a quiet country road beside a river which we can hear rushing and tumbling through mill races beside us. There are several old mills along this road. When we do catch a glimpse of the river we can see it is muddy and swollen from last nights thunderstorms. There is also evidence of the storm on the road which is littered with shredded leaves, limbs and fallen trees. Shortly after crossing the Aixette on a stone bridge we come across a pile of hailstones, still not melted at 11.30, despite the warm sunny day. We pass Chateau Judie, before crossing another stone bridge, turning right at the stone cross, and heading up the hill to Saint-Martin-le-Vieux. Here we enjoy a barbecue lunch of local (Limousin) sausages and crepes, with a group of bikers who have come to enjoy the fete. On and upward for another km before arriving at our gite where we are staying. A delightful goat farm where the lady of the house also makes goats cheese. We get to try some at dinner. Delicious.
Wednesday, 16 July 2014
Day 52-53 Benevent l'Abbaye, France
Day 52-Tues 15/7-Crozant to La Souterraine- 24.5km
We make our own breakfast at our refuge here on the mountain top before leaving. Sun is shining as we descend around the hill on a stoney path to the valley of the Sedelle river. We follow an artists walk, a favourite spot for artists of the Crozant School. Unfortunately it all changed here after 1926 when the next valley was flooded after the construction of the Crozant dam on the Creuse river. The water here flows swiftly, tumbling across rocks and over the man made wall. We pass by the water mill Boucharden which features in paintings by Armand Guillaumin. There are pretty stone houses in a pretty valley. We walk a quiet bitumen road, past the old station house of la Chapelle-Balou with it's faded sign, past the moss covered stone cross & into the village. We stop for coffee and home made cherry cake with Elaine, a British woman who lives here and operates a gite/cafe/bar. She tells us the next 17kms into la Souterraine are flat, on a busy road & there is nothing along the way. All statements prove to be wrong. Not only do we go up to pass the church but the road continues on a gradual up hill slope for along time. We get occasional undulations, anything but flat. It is very quiet with little traffic. We go off road for a while, past haybales all in a row. A short break at a picnic spot near a Lavoir, beside a lake then climb up past the chateau of Saint-Germaine-Beaupre, past the overgrown gate, thru the town square, past the church & water pump. The scenery is idyllic & rural, white fluffy clouds in a clear blue sky. The path again leaves the bitumen, along a farm track, between fences, lots of puddles in the trenches either side but the high ground in the middle is dry. In Saint-Agnant-de-Versillant we stop for a cold drink & a rest at a cafe. Here we are served by an English girl, visiting her French father. At 2.45 we get into the centre of la Souterraine through the Porte Saint Jean. We settle into our lovely accommodation run by an English couple. Dinner is served in the garden with the sun still shining.
Day 53-la Souterraine to Benevent l'Abbaye- 20kms
Despite the uncomfortable beds I overslept. Breakfast was requested for 8-the earliest- & after first waking at 6.15 I didn't wake again until 8.15. No problem except we had agreed to meet another pilgrim, Jose, at 8.45-9.00. I hurry out at 5 to 9 and the three of us finally leave the church at 9.15. This is a late start, but only a short stage. Nearly all on bitumen today which soon heats up. Following the signs we pass some lakes and fields, hedgerows and old oak trees. Coffee break at the bar in Saint-Priest-la-Feuille. Here JP adjusts his pedometer which has accidentally changed the length of his stride. On the occasional off road track we are passed by a string of horse riders. This is an area popular for equestrian tourism. Landscape here us similar to that in parts of the Yarra Valley looking towards Mt Donna Buang and the high country. The last 3.5kms are uphill all the way on hot bitumen, where we leave our footprints in it. A winding road with not much shade. At last our destination, a shady bar and a long cold drink. Our host tonight is also English, Claire. There are 2 German and 2 Belgian pilgrims sharing the room. 3 double bunks. Outside is a gorgeous little sunny terrace where we can sit and relax. Good wifi & dinner for us at 7.
We make our own breakfast at our refuge here on the mountain top before leaving. Sun is shining as we descend around the hill on a stoney path to the valley of the Sedelle river. We follow an artists walk, a favourite spot for artists of the Crozant School. Unfortunately it all changed here after 1926 when the next valley was flooded after the construction of the Crozant dam on the Creuse river. The water here flows swiftly, tumbling across rocks and over the man made wall. We pass by the water mill Boucharden which features in paintings by Armand Guillaumin. There are pretty stone houses in a pretty valley. We walk a quiet bitumen road, past the old station house of la Chapelle-Balou with it's faded sign, past the moss covered stone cross & into the village. We stop for coffee and home made cherry cake with Elaine, a British woman who lives here and operates a gite/cafe/bar. She tells us the next 17kms into la Souterraine are flat, on a busy road & there is nothing along the way. All statements prove to be wrong. Not only do we go up to pass the church but the road continues on a gradual up hill slope for along time. We get occasional undulations, anything but flat. It is very quiet with little traffic. We go off road for a while, past haybales all in a row. A short break at a picnic spot near a Lavoir, beside a lake then climb up past the chateau of Saint-Germaine-Beaupre, past the overgrown gate, thru the town square, past the church & water pump. The scenery is idyllic & rural, white fluffy clouds in a clear blue sky. The path again leaves the bitumen, along a farm track, between fences, lots of puddles in the trenches either side but the high ground in the middle is dry. In Saint-Agnant-de-Versillant we stop for a cold drink & a rest at a cafe. Here we are served by an English girl, visiting her French father. At 2.45 we get into the centre of la Souterraine through the Porte Saint Jean. We settle into our lovely accommodation run by an English couple. Dinner is served in the garden with the sun still shining.
Day 53-la Souterraine to Benevent l'Abbaye- 20kms
Despite the uncomfortable beds I overslept. Breakfast was requested for 8-the earliest- & after first waking at 6.15 I didn't wake again until 8.15. No problem except we had agreed to meet another pilgrim, Jose, at 8.45-9.00. I hurry out at 5 to 9 and the three of us finally leave the church at 9.15. This is a late start, but only a short stage. Nearly all on bitumen today which soon heats up. Following the signs we pass some lakes and fields, hedgerows and old oak trees. Coffee break at the bar in Saint-Priest-la-Feuille. Here JP adjusts his pedometer which has accidentally changed the length of his stride. On the occasional off road track we are passed by a string of horse riders. This is an area popular for equestrian tourism. Landscape here us similar to that in parts of the Yarra Valley looking towards Mt Donna Buang and the high country. The last 3.5kms are uphill all the way on hot bitumen, where we leave our footprints in it. A winding road with not much shade. At last our destination, a shady bar and a long cold drink. Our host tonight is also English, Claire. There are 2 German and 2 Belgian pilgrims sharing the room. 3 double bunks. Outside is a gorgeous little sunny terrace where we can sit and relax. Good wifi & dinner for us at 7.
Monday, 14 July 2014
Day 51 Crozant
Day 51-Gargilesse to Crozant- 20km- July 14
I am being very bad mannered and writing this at the dinner table. A great day of walking up and down hills, slippery slopes, muddy flooded paths, long wet grass, sunny & overcast, a waterfall and lakes, rivers & bridges. I wish I had a euro for every dog that barks as we approach, I'd be a millionaire. Finished today with a climb up past the ruins of the Chateau Crozant where we collected the key and got a stamp. Great little gite at the top of the hill near the church.
I am being very bad mannered and writing this at the dinner table. A great day of walking up and down hills, slippery slopes, muddy flooded paths, long wet grass, sunny & overcast, a waterfall and lakes, rivers & bridges. I wish I had a euro for every dog that barks as we approach, I'd be a millionaire. Finished today with a climb up past the ruins of the Chateau Crozant where we collected the key and got a stamp. Great little gite at the top of the hill near the church.
Sunday, 13 July 2014
Day 50- Cluis to Gargilesse
Day 50- Sun 13/7- Cluis to Gargilesse-16kms
Guess what?? It's raining again. Who would have guessed it, Summer in France. Our path this morning takes us thru the village and down to the viaduct which we cross 499metres long with 20 magnificent high arches. No longer used for the railway now better known as a bungee jumping spot. At the other end of the viaduct, from which the views would be spectacular on a clear day, we take the narrow, slippery path with its rope handrail, down to the street below, following the Camino scallop shell signs. In the front yards of many houses as well as on street corners there are often well heads where water would be drawn from underground aquifers either by hand pumping or drawn by a bucket on a chain or rope.
Much of today is off road on grassy, rocky, muddy, wet, puddly, uneven, slippery tracks, between hedgerows, interspersed with the occasional bitumen road. We stop in Pommiers for a welcome coffee from the small shop, where the man tending the shop is having a birthday & his friends come to keep him company. It starts to rain again then stops. We keep on following the scallop shells through the hamlet of Foy, along wet forest paths to finally emerge on a bitumen road which soon descends very sharply into Gargilesse. Here we meet a group of motorcyclists out for their Sunday ride. We walk into Gargilesse in the rain. Groups of tourists shelter under a big tree. Everything is closed. No bars or restaurants open. We climb up past the church to the Tourism office (closed) in the Pigeonnaire and are able to shelter under the overhang of the sculpter's studio next door. JP calls our host for tonight, Renato, who picks us up to take us to his home. It is nice to be our of the cold and wet. We have a lazy afternoon as other guests arrive. Looks like there could be more than a dozen for dinner. There is a couple in the room next door, a family of 4 in the room opposite, his family of at least 5, plus any campers who may be staying. We have good wifi and at last my blog is up to date. Sorry I can't post any pictures but my iPhone doesn't find them for me. For pictures you will have to join me on Facebook.
Guess what?? It's raining again. Who would have guessed it, Summer in France. Our path this morning takes us thru the village and down to the viaduct which we cross 499metres long with 20 magnificent high arches. No longer used for the railway now better known as a bungee jumping spot. At the other end of the viaduct, from which the views would be spectacular on a clear day, we take the narrow, slippery path with its rope handrail, down to the street below, following the Camino scallop shell signs. In the front yards of many houses as well as on street corners there are often well heads where water would be drawn from underground aquifers either by hand pumping or drawn by a bucket on a chain or rope.
Much of today is off road on grassy, rocky, muddy, wet, puddly, uneven, slippery tracks, between hedgerows, interspersed with the occasional bitumen road. We stop in Pommiers for a welcome coffee from the small shop, where the man tending the shop is having a birthday & his friends come to keep him company. It starts to rain again then stops. We keep on following the scallop shells through the hamlet of Foy, along wet forest paths to finally emerge on a bitumen road which soon descends very sharply into Gargilesse. Here we meet a group of motorcyclists out for their Sunday ride. We walk into Gargilesse in the rain. Groups of tourists shelter under a big tree. Everything is closed. No bars or restaurants open. We climb up past the church to the Tourism office (closed) in the Pigeonnaire and are able to shelter under the overhang of the sculpter's studio next door. JP calls our host for tonight, Renato, who picks us up to take us to his home. It is nice to be our of the cold and wet. We have a lazy afternoon as other guests arrive. Looks like there could be more than a dozen for dinner. There is a couple in the room next door, a family of 4 in the room opposite, his family of at least 5, plus any campers who may be staying. We have good wifi and at last my blog is up to date. Sorry I can't post any pictures but my iPhone doesn't find them for me. For pictures you will have to join me on Facebook.
Day 48-49. France
Day 48- Le Chatelet to La Chatre - Fri 11/7- 31kms
JP & I set off before 8 - 2 pilgrims once more - after breakfast if yoghurt, toast, jam, vegemite & coffee. We make a sandwich to take with us, grainy bread with Camembert. The weather forecast gives us a 5% chance of rain, but after 6 days in a row of rain I am hoping and praying for some sunshine. It is supposed to be Summer!!! We enjoy our morning walking on quiet country lanes, away from traffic. We pass a flower pot man sitting high in the window if a barn at a very well kept farmyard. In Saint Jeanvrin, there is a pretty church, lots of potted colour, all very neat & tidy, even a stick figure pilgrim outside the Mairie. We make good time through the undulating countryside, arriving into Chateaumeillant around 10.15. Here we enjoy a coffee at the bar & take a 1/2 hour break. We climb a hill past a very large manor/farm house with stone walls. Here is a memorial to locals who died in Buchenwald. Down a wet grassy lane to Neret, another flower bedecked labour. We take the Chemin de St Jacques past stone houses. The wheat & canola in thd fields are grey and almost mouldy looking. Our lunch stop is at the Lavoir St Solange where we enjoy the comforts of a table max chairs. We pass more gem sunflowers with their faces turned away from us, an old iron cross, vistas of grain and pasture. More sunflowers but now we are on the right side for us to see the smiling faces, quiet tree lined country lanes, a little up & a little down. We take a break in Lacs to eat a banana, on the common where marquees have been erected for Mondays Bastille day celebrations. We go down to cross the 3 bridges before climbing again to the market square of La Chatre. We enjoy a cold drink and celebrate the no rain day. We retrace our steps to our accommodation which is just before the first of the 3 bridges on Rue de Marquis. Here Anne settles us into her pilgrim refuge guest quarters. She helps us make reservations for the weekend. We will have yo change our schedule as accommodation is quite difficult in some places.
Day 49-Sat 12/7- Le Chatre to Cluis - 25km
Healthy breakfast, then up the hill, back thru the town and head south west. It has been raining in the night so our boots are soon wet when we follow the grassy pathways between the hedgerows. At last it feels like we are actually on a Grand Randonnee (long distance walking path). There is mud & puddles in a lot of places but we manage to stay upright. The scenery is now hills & green pastures with only a few fields if rather grey, mouldy looking grain. As we walk past the paddocks the cows and sheep always look up and often come to the fence to greet us. We spy deer crossing the path ahead. Our first break is at Sarzay where we have our coffee looking at the chateau which originally had 38 round towers and. 3 drawbridges. Sadly only 5 round towers remain. One of the most visited National Monuments in France. We pass the ancient Abbaye of Varennes, now a chambre d'hote. Lunch at a bar in Neuvy-Saint-Sepulchre, next to the basilica. Across the bridge, around the lake, along quiet country paths and through farmyards. All is quiet and we hardly see another soul. The iron crosses are often at corners of the road. We descend to the bridge then climb steeply, past the ruined fortress of Cluis and the chapel to the church. It starts to rain as we get to the church. A quick trip to the epicerie for a key to the refuge and we can settle in for the night. Here we meet Suzette from Charenton again. There are beds for 4 pilgrims upstairs and a lounge/dining/kitchen downstairs we get some supplies and make a yummy potato omelette for dinner.
JP & I set off before 8 - 2 pilgrims once more - after breakfast if yoghurt, toast, jam, vegemite & coffee. We make a sandwich to take with us, grainy bread with Camembert. The weather forecast gives us a 5% chance of rain, but after 6 days in a row of rain I am hoping and praying for some sunshine. It is supposed to be Summer!!! We enjoy our morning walking on quiet country lanes, away from traffic. We pass a flower pot man sitting high in the window if a barn at a very well kept farmyard. In Saint Jeanvrin, there is a pretty church, lots of potted colour, all very neat & tidy, even a stick figure pilgrim outside the Mairie. We make good time through the undulating countryside, arriving into Chateaumeillant around 10.15. Here we enjoy a coffee at the bar & take a 1/2 hour break. We climb a hill past a very large manor/farm house with stone walls. Here is a memorial to locals who died in Buchenwald. Down a wet grassy lane to Neret, another flower bedecked labour. We take the Chemin de St Jacques past stone houses. The wheat & canola in thd fields are grey and almost mouldy looking. Our lunch stop is at the Lavoir St Solange where we enjoy the comforts of a table max chairs. We pass more gem sunflowers with their faces turned away from us, an old iron cross, vistas of grain and pasture. More sunflowers but now we are on the right side for us to see the smiling faces, quiet tree lined country lanes, a little up & a little down. We take a break in Lacs to eat a banana, on the common where marquees have been erected for Mondays Bastille day celebrations. We go down to cross the 3 bridges before climbing again to the market square of La Chatre. We enjoy a cold drink and celebrate the no rain day. We retrace our steps to our accommodation which is just before the first of the 3 bridges on Rue de Marquis. Here Anne settles us into her pilgrim refuge guest quarters. She helps us make reservations for the weekend. We will have yo change our schedule as accommodation is quite difficult in some places.
Day 49-Sat 12/7- Le Chatre to Cluis - 25km
Healthy breakfast, then up the hill, back thru the town and head south west. It has been raining in the night so our boots are soon wet when we follow the grassy pathways between the hedgerows. At last it feels like we are actually on a Grand Randonnee (long distance walking path). There is mud & puddles in a lot of places but we manage to stay upright. The scenery is now hills & green pastures with only a few fields if rather grey, mouldy looking grain. As we walk past the paddocks the cows and sheep always look up and often come to the fence to greet us. We spy deer crossing the path ahead. Our first break is at Sarzay where we have our coffee looking at the chateau which originally had 38 round towers and. 3 drawbridges. Sadly only 5 round towers remain. One of the most visited National Monuments in France. We pass the ancient Abbaye of Varennes, now a chambre d'hote. Lunch at a bar in Neuvy-Saint-Sepulchre, next to the basilica. Across the bridge, around the lake, along quiet country paths and through farmyards. All is quiet and we hardly see another soul. The iron crosses are often at corners of the road. We descend to the bridge then climb steeply, past the ruined fortress of Cluis and the chapel to the church. It starts to rain as we get to the church. A quick trip to the epicerie for a key to the refuge and we can settle in for the night. Here we meet Suzette from Charenton again. There are beds for 4 pilgrims upstairs and a lounge/dining/kitchen downstairs we get some supplies and make a yummy potato omelette for dinner.
Day 46-47
Day 46- Charenton to La Touratte (Arcomps)- 25kms
Rained all night. Left Charenton, Salome, JP & me, following the yellow/blue signs of the pilgrim way to Compostelle. After a short way we are again back at the Canal de Berry, after first squelching our way through muddy farm tracks. Mostly grassy paths which soon wet our boots. All is quiet apart from the dogs which, as we approach then pass by, yap, bark, growl and generally make a very loud noise. We are probably their only entertainment they get each day. All around are very black skies. Just before St Armand we cross the canal on the green bridge and arrive into this large town with its colourful floral hanging baskets. We enjoy lunch at the kebab in the central square. We head south to. Bouzais where we meet the German couple who are hospitaleros at the refuge here. We are following the scallop shell signs but know we will have to move off the route to get to where we are staying tonight. We again meet some rain which has been coming towards us all day from the south-west. We make the turn that takes us off the scallop shell route & up the hill into the village of Arcomps. Here we shelter from the rain for a while then continue on, down the hill, past fields of sunflowers then up again, towards the chateau. We walk past the chateau wall then turn left up the driveway to Le Grenier. We are made very welcome by Madame Lucy du Jeu and her grandson. After showering we get a lovely hot cup of tea. This building was converted from an old farm building some 50+ years ago into what is now a large and very comfortable home. Huge ground floor living space plus Lucy's quarters with generous guest accommodation upstairs. We enjoy a home cooked meal around the kitchen table with Lucy, her grandson & 2 granddaughters.
Day 47- Thur 10/7- la Touratte to Le Chatelet -2 kms walking
It has rained all night and at breakfast the wind us howling, the rain is falling & it's almost still dark outside. We decide to wait an hour and see what happens. There is no change and the decision is made to return to the refuge at Bouzais. Lucy drives us there, raining all the time. After hot chocolate & a talk with our German hospitaleros they drive us to le Chatelet where there are more options for accommodation. Salome is sick of the rain, as also are JP and I. After taking shelter in a bar in le Chatelet we head out into the rain. After only a km we call it quits for the day, knock on the door of a gite and go inside. We will have a rest day. My first since Maastricht. There is good wifi which gives me a chance to update the blog. First though we go back into the rain for a trip to the supermarket for supplies. We will cook our own lunch, dinner & breakfast. This requires more rain walking but only a km or 2. Salome makes the decision to return to Geneva tomorrow, which she quickly organises.
Rained all night. Left Charenton, Salome, JP & me, following the yellow/blue signs of the pilgrim way to Compostelle. After a short way we are again back at the Canal de Berry, after first squelching our way through muddy farm tracks. Mostly grassy paths which soon wet our boots. All is quiet apart from the dogs which, as we approach then pass by, yap, bark, growl and generally make a very loud noise. We are probably their only entertainment they get each day. All around are very black skies. Just before St Armand we cross the canal on the green bridge and arrive into this large town with its colourful floral hanging baskets. We enjoy lunch at the kebab in the central square. We head south to. Bouzais where we meet the German couple who are hospitaleros at the refuge here. We are following the scallop shell signs but know we will have to move off the route to get to where we are staying tonight. We again meet some rain which has been coming towards us all day from the south-west. We make the turn that takes us off the scallop shell route & up the hill into the village of Arcomps. Here we shelter from the rain for a while then continue on, down the hill, past fields of sunflowers then up again, towards the chateau. We walk past the chateau wall then turn left up the driveway to Le Grenier. We are made very welcome by Madame Lucy du Jeu and her grandson. After showering we get a lovely hot cup of tea. This building was converted from an old farm building some 50+ years ago into what is now a large and very comfortable home. Huge ground floor living space plus Lucy's quarters with generous guest accommodation upstairs. We enjoy a home cooked meal around the kitchen table with Lucy, her grandson & 2 granddaughters.
Day 47- Thur 10/7- la Touratte to Le Chatelet -2 kms walking
It has rained all night and at breakfast the wind us howling, the rain is falling & it's almost still dark outside. We decide to wait an hour and see what happens. There is no change and the decision is made to return to the refuge at Bouzais. Lucy drives us there, raining all the time. After hot chocolate & a talk with our German hospitaleros they drive us to le Chatelet where there are more options for accommodation. Salome is sick of the rain, as also are JP and I. After taking shelter in a bar in le Chatelet we head out into the rain. After only a km we call it quits for the day, knock on the door of a gite and go inside. We will have a rest day. My first since Maastricht. There is good wifi which gives me a chance to update the blog. First though we go back into the rain for a trip to the supermarket for supplies. We will cook our own lunch, dinner & breakfast. This requires more rain walking but only a km or 2. Salome makes the decision to return to Geneva tomorrow, which she quickly organises.
Day 44-45
Day 44-Mon 7/7-Grossouvre to Augy-sur-Aubois- 18+kms
We again set off in light rain, Salome, JP & me. It is cold this morning, which we had not expected. We buy pastries in the boulangerie at Grossouvre, where the church has a Spanish style bell tower. We take the wet, grassy path alongside the canal, slippery in places. We meet a farmer herding his cattle into a truck so we wait while they go past on the road & across a bridge over the canal. Our pavement weary feet are grateful for the respite from bitumen and asphalt. We stop for coffee in a bar, outside Sancours, alongside the canal which we have been following all day. Salome makes a phone call and finds out she has passed her barrister exams, which makes her very happy. We continue for the next 9kms along the canal du Berry, past the colonnade of grand old plane trees and fields with cattle & sheep. We cross a bridge, then up a small rise, as we leave the canal to come to the small village of Augy-sur-Aubois. Turn right at the 1664 cross, before entering the village, to reach the Pilgrim Refuge, Nos Repos. Here we are welcomed by 2 hospitaleros, one from Belgium & 1 from Holland. It us a lovely refuge with all necessities. The wifi only works outside, so although it has stopped raining it is not warm. JP & I go down to the village for dinner, a real rural Fench meal. Delicious.
Day 45- Augy to Charenton-du-Cher. 24kms
JP goes to the village for bread & cheese for our breakfast and lunch. We start off in sunshine, left then right, then left then right until we are back at the Canal du Berry. We follow this the whole day again. We pass many locks, crossing at some of them, sometimes in short grass, sometimes in long wet grass. Raining again. The lock houses are rather pretty & although the canal & it's locks seem to need repair, most of the houses are beautifully kept. We follow a red gravel path down a promenade before turning left then right into Rue Chateau de la Grave. At number 9 we find Madame Mativo in the manoir. The weather is still wet & rather depressing. Inside the manor house is rather dilapidated but we are all allocated a room each which is a definite luxury. After a quick trip to the bar we get time for a pre-dinner nap. Another pilgrim, Suzette from Corsica, is also here making us 4 pilgrims altogether. We enjoy our evening meal around the dining table with our hostess.
We again set off in light rain, Salome, JP & me. It is cold this morning, which we had not expected. We buy pastries in the boulangerie at Grossouvre, where the church has a Spanish style bell tower. We take the wet, grassy path alongside the canal, slippery in places. We meet a farmer herding his cattle into a truck so we wait while they go past on the road & across a bridge over the canal. Our pavement weary feet are grateful for the respite from bitumen and asphalt. We stop for coffee in a bar, outside Sancours, alongside the canal which we have been following all day. Salome makes a phone call and finds out she has passed her barrister exams, which makes her very happy. We continue for the next 9kms along the canal du Berry, past the colonnade of grand old plane trees and fields with cattle & sheep. We cross a bridge, then up a small rise, as we leave the canal to come to the small village of Augy-sur-Aubois. Turn right at the 1664 cross, before entering the village, to reach the Pilgrim Refuge, Nos Repos. Here we are welcomed by 2 hospitaleros, one from Belgium & 1 from Holland. It us a lovely refuge with all necessities. The wifi only works outside, so although it has stopped raining it is not warm. JP & I go down to the village for dinner, a real rural Fench meal. Delicious.
Day 45- Augy to Charenton-du-Cher. 24kms
JP goes to the village for bread & cheese for our breakfast and lunch. We start off in sunshine, left then right, then left then right until we are back at the Canal du Berry. We follow this the whole day again. We pass many locks, crossing at some of them, sometimes in short grass, sometimes in long wet grass. Raining again. The lock houses are rather pretty & although the canal & it's locks seem to need repair, most of the houses are beautifully kept. We follow a red gravel path down a promenade before turning left then right into Rue Chateau de la Grave. At number 9 we find Madame Mativo in the manoir. The weather is still wet & rather depressing. Inside the manor house is rather dilapidated but we are all allocated a room each which is a definite luxury. After a quick trip to the bar we get time for a pre-dinner nap. Another pilgrim, Suzette from Corsica, is also here making us 4 pilgrims altogether. We enjoy our evening meal around the dining table with our hostess.
Day 41-43
Day 41- Guipy to Premery-24kms Friday 4 July
We leave without breakfast but with rain gear on as it is raining lightly. Road walking all the way. We pass 4 donkeys, which stand close together for a picture. The landscape is changing and in many places I could be somewhere in Australia with rolling hills, cattle in the paddocks, pastures, wheat & canola. In St Reverian we hail a travelling epicerie to buy some food which we eat standing up in the doorway of a barn. Along the way the villages are all closed up, no shops, almost abandoned. In St Reverian we take the Roman road, which is very rocky, but away from traffic. In Moussy we pass the a abandoned Hotel de la Perdats with it's faded sign. We shelter from the rain in the shed of a gite before continuing, thunder rolling all around. We make it into Premery to our accommodation at "des Routiers" at 1.30, have our lunch & a long cold panache.
Day 42-Premery to Nevers- 31kms
The three of us start off together, Jean-Pierre, Hiltrud & me aiming for Guerigny, 17kms. It is raining when we leave, which continues for the first hour. The road walking is getting to us, with the camber sloping. Sharply away on our left side. I lengthen that walking pole to compensate. Lovely scenery with undulating hills, no serious ups or downs. We cross the Clamecy to Nevers railway line several times. At each crossing there is the small railway house from the days when the crossings were manually operated. We follow the blue& yellow scallop shell signs to find our way. We pass a chateau behind its high stone walls, past white cows, fields of green corn, golden wheat & stubble. We walk thru silent forests, black clouds overhead. As we come into Guerigny we pass what looks like a former brick factory. Many tall chimneys, long buildings with tiled roof, all in apparent disrepair. In Guerigny we have a delicious crepe for lunch and JP & I decide to walk on. It is no longer raining and with only 14 kms to go to Nevers we set off. Hiltrud will stay in Guerigny as she was only going to walk as far as Nevers before returning home and she us not yet ready to finish. After a short stop along the way we walk into Nevers around 4pm. Here I can finally replace my phone charger which died a few days ago. We wind our way thru the narrow streets, past the ugly war memorial, across the park and find St Bernadettes, where we will stay the night in the pilgrim accommodation, way down the back corner. Here we meet up with Salome, a Swiss pilgrim. She shares our room & we eat our evening meal together in the communal dining room.
Day 43-Nevers to Grossouvre- 26kms
After breakfast we visit the chapel of St Bernadette where her body lies intact in a glass case. It has lain here since 1925. She was tiny. On our way our of town we visit the cathedral which had very modern stain glass windows but a very lovely old clock with the sun for a face. It is raining as we leave and continues, raining, raining. We take shelter for a short while in a farm shed. In Gimouille we stop for coffee before crossing the canal again. At Pont Canal we cross the Seine, on a footbridge alongside the canal Laterale a la Loire. Here the fall at the lock would be at least 5metres. In Apremont-sur-Allier, one of the beaux villages de France, we enjoy lunch in sunshine alongside the river. Soon after leaving Apremont we take the D76, which is also the GR654, that leads us through forests on either side (private), for km after km, straight as a narrow. All is silent, a breeze springs up, we quickly don our wet weather gear and take shelter under some large oaks for 5 minutes while the thunderstorm passes over. We set off again when the rain eases. Suddenly the thunder cracks right over head, lightning flashes & the storm descends. Lashings of rain, we are pelted with hailstones to size if ball bearings and in moments we are drenched through, feet squelching in our boots. This continues for 40 minutes. We just keep on walking. No point in doing anything else. We laugh and laugh. It is ridiculously funny, 3 drowned rats. We emerge from the forests as the rain eases and we are soon at Chateau Grossouvre, today's destination. We are staying in the annexe. We are soon warm with all our stuff drying out. Later our host Jacques Chevaux shows us through the chateau which he is restoring to make into a museum for his collection of old military uniforms, swords & paraphernalia. He has been at it for 16 years so far. & hopes to have the ground floor open in 2 years time. A huge task.
We leave without breakfast but with rain gear on as it is raining lightly. Road walking all the way. We pass 4 donkeys, which stand close together for a picture. The landscape is changing and in many places I could be somewhere in Australia with rolling hills, cattle in the paddocks, pastures, wheat & canola. In St Reverian we hail a travelling epicerie to buy some food which we eat standing up in the doorway of a barn. Along the way the villages are all closed up, no shops, almost abandoned. In St Reverian we take the Roman road, which is very rocky, but away from traffic. In Moussy we pass the a abandoned Hotel de la Perdats with it's faded sign. We shelter from the rain in the shed of a gite before continuing, thunder rolling all around. We make it into Premery to our accommodation at "des Routiers" at 1.30, have our lunch & a long cold panache.
Day 42-Premery to Nevers- 31kms
The three of us start off together, Jean-Pierre, Hiltrud & me aiming for Guerigny, 17kms. It is raining when we leave, which continues for the first hour. The road walking is getting to us, with the camber sloping. Sharply away on our left side. I lengthen that walking pole to compensate. Lovely scenery with undulating hills, no serious ups or downs. We cross the Clamecy to Nevers railway line several times. At each crossing there is the small railway house from the days when the crossings were manually operated. We follow the blue& yellow scallop shell signs to find our way. We pass a chateau behind its high stone walls, past white cows, fields of green corn, golden wheat & stubble. We walk thru silent forests, black clouds overhead. As we come into Guerigny we pass what looks like a former brick factory. Many tall chimneys, long buildings with tiled roof, all in apparent disrepair. In Guerigny we have a delicious crepe for lunch and JP & I decide to walk on. It is no longer raining and with only 14 kms to go to Nevers we set off. Hiltrud will stay in Guerigny as she was only going to walk as far as Nevers before returning home and she us not yet ready to finish. After a short stop along the way we walk into Nevers around 4pm. Here I can finally replace my phone charger which died a few days ago. We wind our way thru the narrow streets, past the ugly war memorial, across the park and find St Bernadettes, where we will stay the night in the pilgrim accommodation, way down the back corner. Here we meet up with Salome, a Swiss pilgrim. She shares our room & we eat our evening meal together in the communal dining room.
Day 43-Nevers to Grossouvre- 26kms
After breakfast we visit the chapel of St Bernadette where her body lies intact in a glass case. It has lain here since 1925. She was tiny. On our way our of town we visit the cathedral which had very modern stain glass windows but a very lovely old clock with the sun for a face. It is raining as we leave and continues, raining, raining. We take shelter for a short while in a farm shed. In Gimouille we stop for coffee before crossing the canal again. At Pont Canal we cross the Seine, on a footbridge alongside the canal Laterale a la Loire. Here the fall at the lock would be at least 5metres. In Apremont-sur-Allier, one of the beaux villages de France, we enjoy lunch in sunshine alongside the river. Soon after leaving Apremont we take the D76, which is also the GR654, that leads us through forests on either side (private), for km after km, straight as a narrow. All is silent, a breeze springs up, we quickly don our wet weather gear and take shelter under some large oaks for 5 minutes while the thunderstorm passes over. We set off again when the rain eases. Suddenly the thunder cracks right over head, lightning flashes & the storm descends. Lashings of rain, we are pelted with hailstones to size if ball bearings and in moments we are drenched through, feet squelching in our boots. This continues for 40 minutes. We just keep on walking. No point in doing anything else. We laugh and laugh. It is ridiculously funny, 3 drowned rats. We emerge from the forests as the rain eases and we are soon at Chateau Grossouvre, today's destination. We are staying in the annexe. We are soon warm with all our stuff drying out. Later our host Jacques Chevaux shows us through the chateau which he is restoring to make into a museum for his collection of old military uniforms, swords & paraphernalia. He has been at it for 16 years so far. & hopes to have the ground floor open in 2 years time. A huge task.
Day 35-37
Day 35-Ervy-le-Chatel to Vezannes- 23kms
JP goes to the bakery for fresh croissants & bread for our breakfast & lunch. We make our own coffee & I eat the rest of my strawberries I bought at the market yesterday. We start in a light misty sprinkle but not enough to need the rain jacket. More grain fields then while we stop for a break a heavy shower passes thru. We are under shelter but put on our rain gear when we get going again. Down to the canal Bourgogne which we follow for around 3 kms. Boats on the canal for the first time. This canal is 242km long with 189 locks. We see canola being harvested, off with the heads and straight into the truck, not like in WA where it is cut then lies on the ground to finish off. Up thru the village of Roffey, past the church of St Jacob at Bernouil, then a gentle slope down to the village of Vezannes. Here we enjoy a complimentary bottle of Chablis. We are now in the Chablis appellation area. We chose not to have an evening meal here at €25 each and instead eat what we brought with us. There are other non-pilgrim guests here in a big old farmhouse.
Day 36- Vezannes via Chablis to St-Cyr-les-Colons. 25km
Weather is overcast & threatening rain as we set off. Up the hill and over the TGV train line. Some markings are now on a small square of concrete in the ground and are not always easy to find. Jo is good at finding the way. Fields of maize, lucerne, canola, wheat, barley & oats. Sometimes we follow the GR 654 white on red markings. Gradually upwards, upwards along very stoney farm paths. We come to the vineyards of the Chablis area. The ground in which the vines grow is so stoney you wonder how it can be worked. We gradually descend into Chablis and arrive just as the rain starts. It quickly passes so. We can enjoy the market & get some supplies. While we have our lunch there is another downpour but we are warm & dry. Here when we ask for l'eau du Maison (tap water) we meet a sense of humour and are brought l'eau du Chablis. We pass thru the village of Courgis, along the stoney road, down thru the vineyards then a very steep climb to Prehy where we feast on plump ripe rain washed cherries from an overhanging tree. We descend share again, clay sticking to our boots, then steep up againto St-Cyr-les-Colons. We stay in The municipal gite which has great facilities assisted by a bottle of Chablis.
Day 37-St-Cyr to Arcy-sur-Cure. 22km
Gently upwards as we leave the village behind us. Thru woods & across fields then down into Cravant thru the Porte d'Arbaalt, between the watchtowers of the old ramparts. Here we join an English couple at a bar for coffee. We also buy food for the way, check out the church which is covered in scaffolding and enjoy the beautifully restored half timbered Vakwerkhuizen building. We pass the memorial to the 4500 French & Scottish soldiers who died here on 31July 1423. We see our first sunflowers in bloom, protected by an electric fence which gives me a zap when I touch it with my walking pole. Down into Accolay, past the large ceramic vase on the corner. Here we have lunch by the river Cure. We cross the bridge, thru the village and follow a path through shady oak & beech forests, alongside but above the river Cure. A couple of donkey's nod as we walk by. In Arcy-sur-Cure we stay in a house just metres from the church, very old. Up 2 flights if very steep, narrow, winding stairs like climbing through a cupboard door, to our spacious, airy room in the attic. Mind your head on the beams.
JP goes to the bakery for fresh croissants & bread for our breakfast & lunch. We make our own coffee & I eat the rest of my strawberries I bought at the market yesterday. We start in a light misty sprinkle but not enough to need the rain jacket. More grain fields then while we stop for a break a heavy shower passes thru. We are under shelter but put on our rain gear when we get going again. Down to the canal Bourgogne which we follow for around 3 kms. Boats on the canal for the first time. This canal is 242km long with 189 locks. We see canola being harvested, off with the heads and straight into the truck, not like in WA where it is cut then lies on the ground to finish off. Up thru the village of Roffey, past the church of St Jacob at Bernouil, then a gentle slope down to the village of Vezannes. Here we enjoy a complimentary bottle of Chablis. We are now in the Chablis appellation area. We chose not to have an evening meal here at €25 each and instead eat what we brought with us. There are other non-pilgrim guests here in a big old farmhouse.
Day 36- Vezannes via Chablis to St-Cyr-les-Colons. 25km
Weather is overcast & threatening rain as we set off. Up the hill and over the TGV train line. Some markings are now on a small square of concrete in the ground and are not always easy to find. Jo is good at finding the way. Fields of maize, lucerne, canola, wheat, barley & oats. Sometimes we follow the GR 654 white on red markings. Gradually upwards, upwards along very stoney farm paths. We come to the vineyards of the Chablis area. The ground in which the vines grow is so stoney you wonder how it can be worked. We gradually descend into Chablis and arrive just as the rain starts. It quickly passes so. We can enjoy the market & get some supplies. While we have our lunch there is another downpour but we are warm & dry. Here when we ask for l'eau du Maison (tap water) we meet a sense of humour and are brought l'eau du Chablis. We pass thru the village of Courgis, along the stoney road, down thru the vineyards then a very steep climb to Prehy where we feast on plump ripe rain washed cherries from an overhanging tree. We descend share again, clay sticking to our boots, then steep up againto St-Cyr-les-Colons. We stay in The municipal gite which has great facilities assisted by a bottle of Chablis.
Day 37-St-Cyr to Arcy-sur-Cure. 22km
Gently upwards as we leave the village behind us. Thru woods & across fields then down into Cravant thru the Porte d'Arbaalt, between the watchtowers of the old ramparts. Here we join an English couple at a bar for coffee. We also buy food for the way, check out the church which is covered in scaffolding and enjoy the beautifully restored half timbered Vakwerkhuizen building. We pass the memorial to the 4500 French & Scottish soldiers who died here on 31July 1423. We see our first sunflowers in bloom, protected by an electric fence which gives me a zap when I touch it with my walking pole. Down into Accolay, past the large ceramic vase on the corner. Here we have lunch by the river Cure. We cross the bridge, thru the village and follow a path through shady oak & beech forests, alongside but above the river Cure. A couple of donkey's nod as we walk by. In Arcy-sur-Cure we stay in a house just metres from the church, very old. Up 2 flights if very steep, narrow, winding stairs like climbing through a cupboard door, to our spacious, airy room in the attic. Mind your head on the beams.
Thursday, 10 July 2014
Day 38-40
Day 38- Arcy-sur-Cure to Vezelay - Tues July 1- 22 kms
Another beautiful day for walking. Leaving Arcy we pass the chateau & ruins if earlier buildings, perhaps a wall and it's watchtowers. Through forests where we climb steadily, minding every step as we watch for rocks & tree roots on the path. Shady paths with dappled sunlight, past a worn cross to emerge into a sunny meadow, downwards to Saint More- hollyhocks & sweet peas. Stone buildings with so much character and warmth but so many in a state of disrepair. We follow the Cure river between the water & the walls of limestone. We eat our cherries in La Jarrie, and buy nectarines from a travelling epicerie. We also meet the travelling baker on our way out of town and get some bread fir lunch. After a steep climb we can see Vezelay away in the distance. Then a very steep and awkward down hill rocky slope to a meadow of wild grasses. Just outside the village of Asquins we pause for a while at the red wooden cross under the linden tree before going on past the white wooden cross towards our mountain top destination. Vezelay draws closer. Upwards, upwards and up, so very steep 'til finally we come out on the square in front of the basilica of Vezelay. It is so very beautiful for its simplicity and lack of adornment. We stay at St Madeleine pilgrim accommodation where we again meet up with Siets. Here we meet Hiltrud a German lass who joins us for Jozef's last dinner. He will return home tomorrow & we will miss him.
Day 39- Vezelay to le Chemin-25km
I go to the basilica for the beginning of the 7am service but leave after 15 minutes. After breakfast we farewell Jozef on his bus then head off down the hill to Dt Peter sous Vezelay. Vezelay is one of the major starting points for pilgrims walking from France but we see only a few, most if whom started elsewhere. In Bazoches we buy a cold drink and later discover that the German guide book describes the village as not welcoming pilgrims. We later discover a gite here even refused to accept a black lady who had a reservation, and this in the last 3 months. Some of the way today is along shady paths but most is in the sun on bitumen, with steep ups and downs. We arrive into le Chemin where we are staying with people who I have stayed with previously in St Jean Pied de Port, Huberta & Arno at L'Esprit du Chemin. They have sold their refuge in St Jean and opened a new one here. Just fabulous, even though the masons are still working. A medieval building with walled gardens. Beautiful. Our room ovelooks the village of Anthien.
Day 40- Le Chemin to Guipy- 27 kms
Down the hill to Anthien, warm & sunny. Too much bitumen roads. Chitry-les-Mines where many children are enjoying an end of school picnic under the shade of the giant chestnut trees. Sun shine all day with little shade. More upwards paths to Le Bouquin, then down to Pazy before climbing again past a farm with stone walls and a round tower with scenic views over surrounding pasture. Cows white & brown come to greet us as we pass by. 80+ year old Phillippe Oger hosts us tonight. He cooks a delicious meal which we eat under the linden tree with heavy silver cutlery & crystal glasses for the wine. In the garden are many pots if brightly coloured geraniums but the house is in need of some care and repair as well as a thorough going over. But, we enjoy a pleasant evening and a friendly chat.
Another beautiful day for walking. Leaving Arcy we pass the chateau & ruins if earlier buildings, perhaps a wall and it's watchtowers. Through forests where we climb steadily, minding every step as we watch for rocks & tree roots on the path. Shady paths with dappled sunlight, past a worn cross to emerge into a sunny meadow, downwards to Saint More- hollyhocks & sweet peas. Stone buildings with so much character and warmth but so many in a state of disrepair. We follow the Cure river between the water & the walls of limestone. We eat our cherries in La Jarrie, and buy nectarines from a travelling epicerie. We also meet the travelling baker on our way out of town and get some bread fir lunch. After a steep climb we can see Vezelay away in the distance. Then a very steep and awkward down hill rocky slope to a meadow of wild grasses. Just outside the village of Asquins we pause for a while at the red wooden cross under the linden tree before going on past the white wooden cross towards our mountain top destination. Vezelay draws closer. Upwards, upwards and up, so very steep 'til finally we come out on the square in front of the basilica of Vezelay. It is so very beautiful for its simplicity and lack of adornment. We stay at St Madeleine pilgrim accommodation where we again meet up with Siets. Here we meet Hiltrud a German lass who joins us for Jozef's last dinner. He will return home tomorrow & we will miss him.
Day 39- Vezelay to le Chemin-25km
I go to the basilica for the beginning of the 7am service but leave after 15 minutes. After breakfast we farewell Jozef on his bus then head off down the hill to Dt Peter sous Vezelay. Vezelay is one of the major starting points for pilgrims walking from France but we see only a few, most if whom started elsewhere. In Bazoches we buy a cold drink and later discover that the German guide book describes the village as not welcoming pilgrims. We later discover a gite here even refused to accept a black lady who had a reservation, and this in the last 3 months. Some of the way today is along shady paths but most is in the sun on bitumen, with steep ups and downs. We arrive into le Chemin where we are staying with people who I have stayed with previously in St Jean Pied de Port, Huberta & Arno at L'Esprit du Chemin. They have sold their refuge in St Jean and opened a new one here. Just fabulous, even though the masons are still working. A medieval building with walled gardens. Beautiful. Our room ovelooks the village of Anthien.
Day 40- Le Chemin to Guipy- 27 kms
Down the hill to Anthien, warm & sunny. Too much bitumen roads. Chitry-les-Mines where many children are enjoying an end of school picnic under the shade of the giant chestnut trees. Sun shine all day with little shade. More upwards paths to Le Bouquin, then down to Pazy before climbing again past a farm with stone walls and a round tower with scenic views over surrounding pasture. Cows white & brown come to greet us as we pass by. 80+ year old Phillippe Oger hosts us tonight. He cooks a delicious meal which we eat under the linden tree with heavy silver cutlery & crystal glasses for the wine. In the garden are many pots if brightly coloured geraniums but the house is in need of some care and repair as well as a thorough going over. But, we enjoy a pleasant evening and a friendly chat.
Day 32-34
Day 32-Savieres to Troyes- 12kms
At breakfast I bring our the Vegemite to have with my toast. We head back to the canal which we continue to follow, straight, flat, grassy or bitumen, depending on which side we choose. At the locks there are little houses which would have been for the lock master in the days when the canal was in use. On the ground we walk thru fluffy bundles of kapok, fallen from the trees above. After 12+km the path along the canal ends at Barbery-St-Sulpice. Here we are met by Jean-Pierre our dinner companion from last night. He drives the 3 of us to Troyes, first to check in to Maison Notre Dame to leave our back packs, then a personal guided tour. The cathedral, where because of the unstable ground there is only one tower, and inside the vaulted apses are slightly askew. We vist the Eglise of Saint Madelaine with its intricate gothic over altar gallery, masterpiece of the master mason of Troyes, Jehan Gailde. We are driven past other interesting places like Hotel-dieu -le-Comte with its gold embellished gateway, and the half timber buildings- distinctive in the Troyes style. We farewell our generous and kind friend who leaves us with a tear in his eye. The 3 pilgrims enjoy lunch in a courtyard off the Rouelle les Chats. Delicious. Back at our accommodation we meet up with Siets the Dutch Kiwi again.
Day 33-Thur 26/6- Troyes to Foret-Chenu- 29km
Today there are 4 pilgrims, including Siets. We first take the bus outside to city and start walking from La-Rivière-de-Corps. Across fields, through villages with no shops. We have started without breakfast for the first time. In Laines-aux-Bois a lovely lady makes us coffee and gives us fresh croissants from the bakery she visits while we wait for her to go out then come back to us. Such beautiful generosity from an angel. We stop for lunch at the Fontaine de Montaigu, where we also fill our water bottles. Upwards thru the woods on a carpet of oak & beech leaves. More grain fields, huge expanses of golden wheat & barley as far as the eye can see. We make good time climbing & descending through the warm sunny day. Mainly on farm tracks. At 2 Grande Rue we leave Siets who goes on. We stay in a small garden house up the back of the property in the vegetable garden. I will sleep in the kitchen on a fold out bed.
Day 34-Foret-Chenu to Ervy-le-Chatel. 15km
Up the hill, through the woods, brilliant sunshine, hectares of golden grain waiting for the harvester. More fields of grain with canola more than a metre high, across parched pathways with huge cracks then into the cool forest where the road is deeply rutted with puddles, frogs swimming & green slimy water. We have to watch every step. In Ervy-le-Chatel it is market day & we are met at the roundabout by the warden of the refuge. There are 2 rooms, each sleeping 2 pilgrims so I am on my own in the one which also has a small dining area. We hang our washing in the sun in the street then take a walk around the town, past St Nicholaaspoort(1450), St Peters church(1433) damaged in the 100year war but later rebuilt, and back to the round Korenbeur(corn exchange) in the centre of town.
At breakfast I bring our the Vegemite to have with my toast. We head back to the canal which we continue to follow, straight, flat, grassy or bitumen, depending on which side we choose. At the locks there are little houses which would have been for the lock master in the days when the canal was in use. On the ground we walk thru fluffy bundles of kapok, fallen from the trees above. After 12+km the path along the canal ends at Barbery-St-Sulpice. Here we are met by Jean-Pierre our dinner companion from last night. He drives the 3 of us to Troyes, first to check in to Maison Notre Dame to leave our back packs, then a personal guided tour. The cathedral, where because of the unstable ground there is only one tower, and inside the vaulted apses are slightly askew. We vist the Eglise of Saint Madelaine with its intricate gothic over altar gallery, masterpiece of the master mason of Troyes, Jehan Gailde. We are driven past other interesting places like Hotel-dieu -le-Comte with its gold embellished gateway, and the half timber buildings- distinctive in the Troyes style. We farewell our generous and kind friend who leaves us with a tear in his eye. The 3 pilgrims enjoy lunch in a courtyard off the Rouelle les Chats. Delicious. Back at our accommodation we meet up with Siets the Dutch Kiwi again.
Day 33-Thur 26/6- Troyes to Foret-Chenu- 29km
Today there are 4 pilgrims, including Siets. We first take the bus outside to city and start walking from La-Rivière-de-Corps. Across fields, through villages with no shops. We have started without breakfast for the first time. In Laines-aux-Bois a lovely lady makes us coffee and gives us fresh croissants from the bakery she visits while we wait for her to go out then come back to us. Such beautiful generosity from an angel. We stop for lunch at the Fontaine de Montaigu, where we also fill our water bottles. Upwards thru the woods on a carpet of oak & beech leaves. More grain fields, huge expanses of golden wheat & barley as far as the eye can see. We make good time climbing & descending through the warm sunny day. Mainly on farm tracks. At 2 Grande Rue we leave Siets who goes on. We stay in a small garden house up the back of the property in the vegetable garden. I will sleep in the kitchen on a fold out bed.
Day 34-Foret-Chenu to Ervy-le-Chatel. 15km
Up the hill, through the woods, brilliant sunshine, hectares of golden grain waiting for the harvester. More fields of grain with canola more than a metre high, across parched pathways with huge cracks then into the cool forest where the road is deeply rutted with puddles, frogs swimming & green slimy water. We have to watch every step. In Ervy-le-Chatel it is market day & we are met at the roundabout by the warden of the refuge. There are 2 rooms, each sleeping 2 pilgrims so I am on my own in the one which also has a small dining area. We hang our washing in the sun in the street then take a walk around the town, past St Nicholaaspoort(1450), St Peters church(1433) damaged in the 100year war but later rebuilt, and back to the round Korenbeur(corn exchange) in the centre of town.
Day 29-31
Day 29-Sun 22/6- Baye to Sezanne 17km
Our host drives us to Baye to start our walking at the Abbey there. Along the D951, up and down until St Six where we get a long uphill haul along the tree lined road offering shade and a slight breeze. Along the road are km markers -Voi de la Liberte 1944- We wonder whether this was the road the allies came when liberating France after the war. The small villages we pass thru offer no shops of any kind. We have been told that in this area there are 25 villages with only 5 bakeries to service them. We pass a chateau with its grand wrought iron gates, then a couple of large walled farmhouses, through fields, along a forest track, thru green & shady woods before emerging into a vineyard. We enter Sezanne as the clock strikes 12. After getting supplies at the marche we check in to an aged care facility where we are staying the night. Smiling nuns in grey habits welcome us. Lunch is immediately offered. Here we will also have dinner & breakfast. A most delightful place. Here also we meet 75yo Jozef from Belgium who is to become our new travelling companion.
Day 30-Sezanne to Anglure- 23km
After 4 we reach the village if Vindey with its "Put"- the stone shaped bottle - which marks the border between Brie-Champenoise and Champagne Crayeuse. Through grain fields, we feast off cherrys overhanging the path, much of which is alongside the disused railway line. We pass a grain silo busy with trucks bringing in the harvest. The horse flies are biting again. Harvesters are busy heading the wheat. Tractors pull large trailers filled with grain on their way to the silos. Arriving in Anglure there is a complex of massive silos, very busy with trucks & tractors rumbling in with their loads of grain. Here JP & I are at no 5 Rue de Pont & Jozef is at the hotel. A shorter day, grassy unpaved pathways. In the village there is the remains of a large water mill from medieval times.
Day 31-Tue 24/6-Anglure to Savierres 26km
Another sunny day. Across the bridge through the fields. We chat with a man tending his vegetable garden. We come to the canal de la Haute Seine. Serene white swans gliding in the waterlilies. Little black water birds dancing across the lily pads like they are running on water. In Mery-sur-Seine, Joan of Arc stands watch on top of the tower, while at street level there is a statue if Valmy Jemmapes- waving his rifle in one hand over his head (1702). We have lunch here & Jo catches us up so now we can walk together again. We follow the canal, crossing occasionally from side to side for shade and grassy paths, past locks (ecluses) and finally turn right to go into Savieres. Once there we have to walk am extra 1.1km to our gite. Mme Noble makes a dinner party of our stay and we meet her friends, making 7 altogether. Another Jean-Pierre who offers to show us his city of Troyes tomorrow and also to drill a hole in a scallop shell for JP who broke his today. We even get clafoutis cerises for dessert. Yum.
Our host drives us to Baye to start our walking at the Abbey there. Along the D951, up and down until St Six where we get a long uphill haul along the tree lined road offering shade and a slight breeze. Along the road are km markers -Voi de la Liberte 1944- We wonder whether this was the road the allies came when liberating France after the war. The small villages we pass thru offer no shops of any kind. We have been told that in this area there are 25 villages with only 5 bakeries to service them. We pass a chateau with its grand wrought iron gates, then a couple of large walled farmhouses, through fields, along a forest track, thru green & shady woods before emerging into a vineyard. We enter Sezanne as the clock strikes 12. After getting supplies at the marche we check in to an aged care facility where we are staying the night. Smiling nuns in grey habits welcome us. Lunch is immediately offered. Here we will also have dinner & breakfast. A most delightful place. Here also we meet 75yo Jozef from Belgium who is to become our new travelling companion.
Day 30-Sezanne to Anglure- 23km
After 4 we reach the village if Vindey with its "Put"- the stone shaped bottle - which marks the border between Brie-Champenoise and Champagne Crayeuse. Through grain fields, we feast off cherrys overhanging the path, much of which is alongside the disused railway line. We pass a grain silo busy with trucks bringing in the harvest. The horse flies are biting again. Harvesters are busy heading the wheat. Tractors pull large trailers filled with grain on their way to the silos. Arriving in Anglure there is a complex of massive silos, very busy with trucks & tractors rumbling in with their loads of grain. Here JP & I are at no 5 Rue de Pont & Jozef is at the hotel. A shorter day, grassy unpaved pathways. In the village there is the remains of a large water mill from medieval times.
Day 31-Tue 24/6-Anglure to Savierres 26km
Another sunny day. Across the bridge through the fields. We chat with a man tending his vegetable garden. We come to the canal de la Haute Seine. Serene white swans gliding in the waterlilies. Little black water birds dancing across the lily pads like they are running on water. In Mery-sur-Seine, Joan of Arc stands watch on top of the tower, while at street level there is a statue if Valmy Jemmapes- waving his rifle in one hand over his head (1702). We have lunch here & Jo catches us up so now we can walk together again. We follow the canal, crossing occasionally from side to side for shade and grassy paths, past locks (ecluses) and finally turn right to go into Savieres. Once there we have to walk am extra 1.1km to our gite. Mme Noble makes a dinner party of our stay and we meet her friends, making 7 altogether. Another Jean-Pierre who offers to show us his city of Troyes tomorrow and also to drill a hole in a scallop shell for JP who broke his today. We even get clafoutis cerises for dessert. Yum.
Day 26-28
Day 26- Thursday 19/6-Bazancourt to Reims-18kms
We have breakfast then head to the local bar for our early morning caffeine fix. We trek out of town along farm roads, through grain fields. The terrain is changing. Now the soil is chalky white clay/limestone, very fine dust like talcum powder. We arrive into Reims and the grand cathedral where a Canadian lady takes our group photo. We do a quick skip thru the cathedral where security is grumpy & the staff at the shop need to learn about customer relations. On one portal of the cathedral is an angel with open wings, a smile on her face & a twinkle in her eye. Here, in the afternoon a Friends of St Jacques group are very helpful & friendly. They book our accommodation at the monastery St Sixte. We also meet a Dutch Kiwi pilgrim Siets, who is having a rest day. Max buys his train ticket for tomorrow when he will return to Amsterdam. Later in the evening I am cleaning my boots at the window -we are on the 3rd floor- when one boot flies out the window. Thud, onto the roof 2 floors below. It is 8.30pm & no staff around. It will have to wait until the morning.
Day 27-Reims to Mardeuil 39km
First things first. Retrieve the boot. The man from security is most helpful. He gets a key for the room immediately below ours, on the first floor and also a large broom. Max takes his long walking stick. Together they retrieve my boot. Hooray!! Jean-Pierre & I set off, across the candles then follow the canal. We miss a turn. By the time we realise our mistake we have gone 2.5kms. Only way is to backtrack. Approaching the village if Trois-Puits we see our first champagne grape vines. The soil is very fine, white & chalky. We top up our water bottles at the public wash house (lavoire) in Rilly-la-Montagne. Most villages have a lavoire and we wonder how long since they were last used as many are not old buildings. At Bellevue near the Royal Champagne restaurant there is a spectacular view over Epernay & the surrounding valley. We have climbed some steep tracks on unmarked paths through forests to get here. A long steep downward road before again climbing to the hilltop village of Hautevillers, where Dom Perignon's tomb is in the church. Very steep descent on very rough tracks between the vines to Cumieres. Then across the narrow stone bridge with a queue of traffic in both directions and into Mardeuil at 5.30pm. At the Mairie(town hall) we are met by the Mayor's assistant who welcomes us with a big smile, stamp & keys to the refuge in one hand & a bottle of champagne in the other. Campaspe could learn something here perhaps??? Our refuge for the night is also the building used for preschool & after school care. Some children are still here until 6pm. We are to to help ourselves to the well stocked fridge, with soup, salads, vegetables, meat, milk, cheese, orange juice etc. Bread is also provided. Everything we need & more. The mayor's assistant also makes our reservation for tomorrow night. The Mayor himself calls in to have a chat & even goes out in his car to look for an overdue pilgrim. Service with a smile.
Day 28-Mardeuil to Champaubert via Montmort. 24.2km
Our trail starts with a climb up the white chalk hills, thru vineyards, steep, up. All is quiet apart from occasional agricultural machinery. The vines are being trimmed. Delightful views across the valleys, small champagne villages, row upon row of grape vines & a clear blue sky. We have a break in Moussy then up past the Eglise Charot, up past the lookout point, through the woods to Morangis where we enjoy our lunch under the shady branches of an ancient walnut tree. Our path later becomes more overgrown with thigh high grass. We arrive in Montmort-Lucy, past the beautiful chateau, just before 3pm. We sit at a bar near the town hall for a cold drink & call our host contact for tonight. She picks us up in her car
We have breakfast then head to the local bar for our early morning caffeine fix. We trek out of town along farm roads, through grain fields. The terrain is changing. Now the soil is chalky white clay/limestone, very fine dust like talcum powder. We arrive into Reims and the grand cathedral where a Canadian lady takes our group photo. We do a quick skip thru the cathedral where security is grumpy & the staff at the shop need to learn about customer relations. On one portal of the cathedral is an angel with open wings, a smile on her face & a twinkle in her eye. Here, in the afternoon a Friends of St Jacques group are very helpful & friendly. They book our accommodation at the monastery St Sixte. We also meet a Dutch Kiwi pilgrim Siets, who is having a rest day. Max buys his train ticket for tomorrow when he will return to Amsterdam. Later in the evening I am cleaning my boots at the window -we are on the 3rd floor- when one boot flies out the window. Thud, onto the roof 2 floors below. It is 8.30pm & no staff around. It will have to wait until the morning.
Day 27-Reims to Mardeuil 39km
First things first. Retrieve the boot. The man from security is most helpful. He gets a key for the room immediately below ours, on the first floor and also a large broom. Max takes his long walking stick. Together they retrieve my boot. Hooray!! Jean-Pierre & I set off, across the candles then follow the canal. We miss a turn. By the time we realise our mistake we have gone 2.5kms. Only way is to backtrack. Approaching the village if Trois-Puits we see our first champagne grape vines. The soil is very fine, white & chalky. We top up our water bottles at the public wash house (lavoire) in Rilly-la-Montagne. Most villages have a lavoire and we wonder how long since they were last used as many are not old buildings. At Bellevue near the Royal Champagne restaurant there is a spectacular view over Epernay & the surrounding valley. We have climbed some steep tracks on unmarked paths through forests to get here. A long steep downward road before again climbing to the hilltop village of Hautevillers, where Dom Perignon's tomb is in the church. Very steep descent on very rough tracks between the vines to Cumieres. Then across the narrow stone bridge with a queue of traffic in both directions and into Mardeuil at 5.30pm. At the Mairie(town hall) we are met by the Mayor's assistant who welcomes us with a big smile, stamp & keys to the refuge in one hand & a bottle of champagne in the other. Campaspe could learn something here perhaps??? Our refuge for the night is also the building used for preschool & after school care. Some children are still here until 6pm. We are to to help ourselves to the well stocked fridge, with soup, salads, vegetables, meat, milk, cheese, orange juice etc. Bread is also provided. Everything we need & more. The mayor's assistant also makes our reservation for tomorrow night. The Mayor himself calls in to have a chat & even goes out in his car to look for an overdue pilgrim. Service with a smile.
Day 28-Mardeuil to Champaubert via Montmort. 24.2km
Our trail starts with a climb up the white chalk hills, thru vineyards, steep, up. All is quiet apart from occasional agricultural machinery. The vines are being trimmed. Delightful views across the valleys, small champagne villages, row upon row of grape vines & a clear blue sky. We have a break in Moussy then up past the Eglise Charot, up past the lookout point, through the woods to Morangis where we enjoy our lunch under the shady branches of an ancient walnut tree. Our path later becomes more overgrown with thigh high grass. We arrive in Montmort-Lucy, past the beautiful chateau, just before 3pm. We sit at a bar near the town hall for a cold drink & call our host contact for tonight. She picks us up in her car
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