Day 69- Saint Ferme-La Reole (Pondaurat) 20km
A light breakfast. I'm being kind here. We supplement it with croissants & pastries from the boulangerie. Up past the cemetery, along the road with tall maize/corn & grape vines growing in fields. Gentle ups and downs. Have noticed for some time what look like old grinding wheels from mills sitting like guard dogs at the entrance to farms or at gateways and even on corners. This is later confirmed by our hosts that the large stone wheels were indeed once used to grind grain, usually turned by a donkey or a horse. Up and over a rise and no more grapevines, but more sunflowers with their bright yellow faces turned towards the sun, past the donkeys and it's time to take a break at the cemetery in Roquebrune. Here Judi has a turn at winding the brass knob on the water fountain to produce lovely cold fresh drinking water. More bitumen, another grinding stone, and finally we leave the bitumen. For all of 6/7 minutes. Entering La Reole we pass the former residence of the Black Prince, turn left around the Hotel de Ville Ancien, where Richard the Lionheart lived at some stage. We sit nearby to have lunch and very bravely order a bottle of Artisan cider made in Brittany which we drink from pottery bowls. It smells like the farmyards we have been passing thru (very earthy) and although very dry was quite drinkable. Our host picks us up at the church and off we go to settle into the farmhouse at Pondaurat. But first we visit the church there which, at 4pm, has the bells ringing, in unison with all other churches across France in remembrance of 100 yrs since the start of World War 1. Part of history. We have an amazing evening with our hosts Nicole & Michel and their friends.
Day 70- Sat 2/8- Pondaurat to Bazas
Judi leaves us this morning to meet up with her Aussie friends to hike Mont Blanc. And then there were 2 pilgrims again. We set off across the stone medieval bridge, past the Chateau and on into Savignac where we buy provisions got the way. Off road for a while which is easier on the feet & less wearing on the boots. Through the forest where hunters are setting up their very extensive hides for the upcoming hunting season. The way takes us on an uphill climb for several kms past hazelnut trees under irrigation. In Brouqueyran we take a short detour to visit the 11thC church where we sit on a tombstone to eat our lunch and refill water bottles. The route here has recently changed and is much longer going round the chateau, down to the lake, around the lake then a steep climb up thru the forest of ancient oaks. Finally into Bazas where our host Elienne picks us up. A beautiful modern home with gorgeous garden. Gilbert & Elienne make us feel at home as we enjoy a delightful meal alfresco.
Day 71- Bazas to Captieux- 18km
We visit the boulangerie before heading off along the old railway line. Overcast and sunny in patches. Delightful walking, flat except where the original bridges are gone & we have to scramble down the back up again. The cicadas are noisy and when they go quiet we know it is on with the wet weather gear. Lots of thunder & lightning then down comes the rain. Nowhere to take shelter we go on. Drenched through in no time at all. Squelching/sloshing in our boots. We finally come on a farm shed where we take cover after navigating the pond in the yard. Here we hang ourselves out to dry and wait for more than an hour before walking the last 4kms into Captieux. We find our way to the Pilgrim Refuge where we are soon comfortable. After visiting the local corner shop I whip up dinner and relax with a bottle of wine. So blessed to have all our needs met.
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