Days 95-99 Across the meseta & beyond

I 'm going to combine a few days here to get up to date.
Day 95- Terradillos to El Burgo Ranero 31 km
Day 96- El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas 19.1km
Day 97- Mansilla to Leon 18.6 km
Day 98- Leon to San Martin del Camino 27km
Day 99- San Martin del Camino to Murias de Rechivaldo 29.3km
Lots of early mornings, walking in the dark then as the sun rises behind me the most beautiful colours in the sky, all around. The usual routine is to walk a few kms then stop for breakfast. Fresh OJ, coffee & toast or pastry. I have my tube of Vegemite so usually choose toast on which I can spread it. The weather has been warm & sunny but also often high cloud and light breezes. Good walking temps. Along the way there are many chapels, churches, often with storks' nests on the bell towers, stone bridges and concrete, above ground small v shaped irrigation channel with lots of leaks. I meet an American author and we chat for a while, then later a couple of Aussie women. We are all heading west to Santiago. The first couple of days were fairly straight but now there are more hills. Much has also been alongside roads. Trees have been planted alongside the path and provide very welcome shade from the afternoon sun. Both Mansilla & Leon have old city walls, much of which is still intact, up to 14m high and 3m thick. Very sturdy. In Leon I stay at the Hotel Isidoro which is behind the old city wall, part of the Pantheon building complex. Streets are paved with large river pebbles although I wonder if perhaps this part of Spain was once under water because those same rounded river pebbles are all over the pilgrim path as well as in the fields. Today I crossed one of the prettiest and longest arched bridges on the Camino, in Hospital de Orbigo with more than 20 arches. It has a lot of romantic history about knights jousting and unrequited love. After Hospital the way becomes more hilly. In the distance can be seen the Cantabrian mountains which draw closer every day. Tomorrow will be the first serious climb for some time. Santiago is now only a couple of weeks away. The days are changing as Autumn arrives.

Day 94 - Along the Roman Road

Day 94- Tue 26/8- Carrion de Los Condes to Terradillos de Los Templarios 27km
Another glorious day for walking early in the dawn as we leave Carrion after it's night of fiesta when the music, which was several blocks away, went on until 4am. After crossing the rio Carrion on an ancient stone Roman bridge the route is on the road for a while, with pilgrims strung out along a couple of kilometres all heading west. The way soon veers left onto an old Roman road which you wouldn't know except that the guide book tells me & there is a sign on a rock off to one side. It goes straight for many kms thru open fields and the occasional hill. Gravel to start then later rocky. It is 17.5 km to the first village where we stop for a coffee & something to eat. Today I am walking with an American & an Italian who I met a few days ago. It was nice to be able to leave town in the dark with someone although there seem to be many more pilgrims on this section than a few days ago. A long slow climb brings us to Ledigos for another short stop then it's straight on into Hornillos de Los Templarios which has connections to the Knights Templar. Weather is warm and sometimes sunny. Quite a bit of cloud cover today and a head wind all the way. Walking is done by 1pm do then it's time for siesta and journalling.

Day 92-93 The meseta in Northern Spain

Day 92- Sun 24/8 - Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino 29km
A nice early start westward into the dawn. The sun rises behind me as the route takes me around the hillside on a small track, past ruins then down to the paved road which passes through the archway of the remnants of Convento de San Anton. I could have stayed at the Albergue here but I need to recharge my phone every night and there is no electricity. Soon into Castrojeriz which has the ruins of a castle standing guard atop the mountain behind it. A very long Main Street but signs of improved economic conditions which is good for the local people. The Camino means a lot to these small towns which were rapidly dying until the resurgence of pilgrimage and the subsequent demands for infrastructure. In the middle of town is a small private oasis where the door is always open to all comers, Hospital de Alma. A real place of quiet and rest. After Castrojeriz there is a steep climb to Alto de Mostalares followed by a steeper descent to the meseta which is stretched out ahead like a canvas of parchment. Quite a caravan of pilgrims are visible trekking their way westward. Past Saint Nicholas chapel and on into the province of Palencia. Now in the midday sun the road is glary but a gentle breeze keeps conditions reasonable. Across the Canal Pisuerga as the road, now broad and stoney climbs gradually to a peak where my destination of Boadilla is visible 4kms away. There I check in to one of 4 albergues and chill out. Another great day. Here I meet Alex, an Australian girl from Camberwell. Small world.

Day 93- Boadilla to Carrion de Los Condes - 26.5km
Another early morning start which I love. Most of the other 30+ pilgrims have already gone before 7am. The way takes a left turn after leaving the village past elevated irrigation channels leaking water, past tumbling haystacks and soon alongside the Canal de Castilla which I follow until crossing it and heading into Fromista. Time for a fresh OJ and croissant then out of town, across the highway and high speed train tracks before hitting the Senda de Peregrinos- a footpath built specially for pilgrims which runs beside the road. Straight but hilly and basically a good walking surface. After passing several old stone crosses and a couple of smaller villages I take a break at Villarmentero de Campos where 2 donkeys, several geese, chickens & a turkey wander amongst the tables and chairs while I drink my coffee. From here on its straight almost all the way, gently undulating, warm & sunny with enough breeze again to keep the temp reasonable for walking. I track on into Carrion de Los Condes in time for lunch. But first it's check in with the nuns at Esperitu Santo, do the washing then relax. Another great day in the open air. Here I meet another Aussie girl from Cairns.

Day 91 - A hot day on the meseta

Day 91- West of Burgos to Hontanas - 27km
After a night of luxury in a hotel I hit the road before 7am. The route has changed here due to the fast rail line & ongoing road works. A local lady Maria, shows me how to avoid the detour. It's Saturday so I can walk straight thru the middle of the roadworks, under the freeway across a bridge alongside the road to Tardajos where I stop for breakfast. Then it's on farm tracks and very stoney paths for the rest of the day. Up and down, some steep and others long and gradual. Through Rabe, and then Hornillos del Camino where it's time for a break and a cool drink. The weather is warming up with a cloudless blue sky above and the occasional cool breeze. Lots of wind turbines on the skyline and stones, stones & more stones. They are heaped up either side of the track and in the recently turned soil you wonder how this land can be farmed for grain. There are few trees but wild roses, blackberries and brush form a hedgerow like windbreak beside the track. Quite a few other pilgrims pass by. The sign tells me Hontanas is only 500m away yet all around there is nothing to see. Then a turn of the road and there below tucked into a small valley is the village of Hontanas. I get a bed for the night at Albergue Santa Brigida. Clean sheet and pillowcase and spacious rooms. Only 16 beds in 3 rooms. Here I can have dinner as well and the speciality of the house is Paella. There is even a small fountain in the courtyard where we can soak our tired feet. Great dinner and good company. Only 10 pilgrims in total. Hope it will be a quiet night. No fiesta anyway.

Day 90- Onward ever westward

Day 90- Ages to west Burgos - 24km
A noisy night in Ages- yes Fiesta. One of the guys obviously had trouble sleeping as he moved to 2 different bunks, including the one above me in the early hours. As the beds have rubber casings and we were issued with disposable sheets he would have been rather uncomfortable as he didn't take his bedding with him. At one stage he took my sleeping bag off my feet and lay on that but I soon retrieved it from under his inert body. No breakfast before leaving - bar is closed- fiesta. The route takes the road for the first few kms to Atapuerca where there has been a significant fossil find of early man. Here we have breakfast at the little tienda. Now the way diverges from the road, past sheep with black noses, ears & feet. Up a very rocky path that looks like it was once molten lava except its white not black. The way rises steadily past barbed wire fences and then at the top a tall cross in a pile of stones. It is raining lightly and the breeze makes it cool walking. We track on through Orbaneja with its old stone buildings. Then it's over a freeway and the main Madrid Hendaye railway line, past the airport and into Villafria for a coffee stop before heading through the industrial area along the main road into the city of Burgos. At the albergue behind the cathedral I say farewell to my walking companion of more than 2 months, Jean-Pierre. He will now be free to enjoy the sights and experiences of the Camino at his own pace, in his own time and in his own way. The Camino is a personal experience and you cannot truly appreciate it when walking to someone else's agenda. I wish him Buen Camino and expect to catch up again in Santiago where all things come together. I head on out of town to find somewhere to stay. Another wet but good day of walking.

Day 89-Passed the 2000km mark

Day 89-Thur 21/8- Belorado to Ages
Perfect weather for walking with high cloud later clearing to a warm & sunny afternoon. From Belorado it was basically up all day. The way is mostly gravel roads that go round the contours of the hills, through the small villages of Tosantos, Villambista, Epinosa del Camino then Villafranca Montes de Oca, which highway N120 cuts in two. We are quite close to it as we walk thru fields if stubble & sunflowers. When we can't see it we can always hear the trucks as they go up the hills. After Villafranca it is straight up to a monument before diving down then up very steeply to the pine & oak forests where in times past pilgrims were often set upon by bandits. The way here is broad and dusty and there are quite a lot of other pilgrims visible. At St Juan de Ortega the church complex is undergoing significant renovation. This project has been going a long time. After lunch at the bar it is a fairly level trek into Ages, the stop for tonight. Clicked over the 2000kms today with a little more than 500 to go depending on what map or mile post you look at.

Day 88- Into Castilla y Leon

Day 88- Ciruena to Belorado 29kms
Another great day for walking. Start off past hops growing tall on vines, then sugar beet, green and lush in the ground. All around is grain stubble. A quick few kms brings us to Santo Domingo de la Calzada where there is a legend about a pilgrim coming back from the dead. A rooster & chickens live in a special cage high up in the cathedral. I didn't visit this time but Jean Pierre did and was most disappointed to find no rooster or hens, just an empty cage. At €3 to go in he was not happy. Headed off across the hills, every shade of cream, gold and brown as far as the eye can see. Past the fat opium poppy seed pods, there for the taking. Winding our way through small villages, up and down. Lots off it alongside the busy N120 with trucks rushing by. High cloud & overcast most  of the day made it quite humid at times. Were planning to stop after 23km but refuge did not open until 2pm so walked on thru. Changes happening all the way with more commerce and more places to stay. Not very busy pilgrim wise which surprises me somewhat as it is not a hot summer. We passed a pig farm which we could smell but not see then later a flock of sheep moving across the way. Path generally just broad gravel with the occasional bits of bitumen. We have now gravitated into the autonomous region of Castilla y Leon which is one of the largest in Spain and in which we will be until Galicia. Almost 2000 kms done with less than 600 to go. Signage is all over the place. Earlier today we passed a new official market saying 567km to Santiago and then at the end of the day another saying 576km to go?? So I will just keep in counting as best I can each day and total it up as I go.

Day 87- thru the vineyards of Rioja

Day 87- Navarette to Ciruena - 32 kms
Started bright & early as the first alarm went off at 5am. It was still dark when we left Navarette following other pilgrims up and out of town along the broad stony dusty farm track winding its way through the vines. A short down to the highway which we followed alongside on a gradual climb before deviating to the left and climbing into Ventosa where we had a good breakfast. Off along the track again, more vines & stubble left from the grain & haystacks. After climbing to Alto de San Anton we descend past a gravel pit, across a small stream then track on into Najera through the industrial area. Najera old town is tucked up against red sandstone cliffs alongside the Rio Najarilla. After a coffee break we wend our way thru the narrow streets amongst the traffic as footpaths are only about 40cm wide. We climb up the steep path out of Najera, up and over then through more farmland. Lots of new vines have been planted here and everything, apart from the soil, looks very green- irrigation from v shaped above ground channels. In Azofra we have lunch then move on. Again it's up and down before climbing steeply to the Rioja Alto Golf Club development. Hundreds if unoccupied homes but at least this time there was quite a bit of activity and people. It has taken many years. We go on into the old town of Ciruena then along the road to Casa de Victoria. A new albergue this year. Just lovely and we can have dinner here too. A great very satisfying day. Perfect weather.

Day 86 - From Navarra to La Rioja (wine)

Day 86- Viana to Navarette- 22kms Mon 18/8
A snoring night from the Spaniards in the next bunk.  No breakfast here so we hit the road after a quick dispensing machine coffee and head to Logroni for breakfast. Down from the town then along a track and later bitumen, descending into the valley. Coming into Logrono we pass Felisa's Table- figs, water & love- a landmark of the Camino for many years. Today it has changed with small souvenirs rather than figs & water. Shortly after though I get to eat some wild figs from the tree near the bridge. We track on into Logrono with its unique Camino symbol of a stylised scallop shell & yellow arrow to point the way. Walking thru the park between the cypress trees I find a rose bush in flower, the Camino de Santiago Rose. Very pretty. Up the steps and across the bridge into the city of Logrono. Breakfast of coffee OJ & toast gives me a chance to eat some Vegemite. We pass the Iglesias de Santiago with its huge statue if Santiago Matamoros. St James the moorslayer. We leave Logrono via the green grassy park, mind the sprinklers, through an underpass with a pilgrim mural before continuing upwards past and around a lake. More uphill climbing. Bitumen now all the way thru vines & alongside the busy highway but high above it as it goes thru a cutting then down past the big black El Toro on the skyline. Across the highway then past a poplar plantation before climbing steeply into the old town if Navarette. By 12.30 we are settled in to Hostal El Cantaro where I have stayed before. It is fiesta here- Saints day- and the kids are playing under a foam making machine, great fun with loads if suds & foam. Everything closes at lunch time. There is a bull ring set up and in the evening there is bull teasing where men try to catch the attention of a young bull then run away when it comes near. All restaurants are closed so it's tapas for dinner. We have now left the region of Navarra and are in wine country La Rioja.

Day 85

Day 85- Villamajor to Viana - 31 km
Great Dutch style breakfast before heading off on a beautiful morning. Down hill on broad gravelly paths, thru farmland. Cool start but it soon warms up. Undulating landscape then into Los Arcos where we meet the local band making sure last nights revellers are now awake. It's 10am & yesterday they had bull running thru the town. Many are still dressed in the red & white. Leaving Los Arcos we can soon see the next village of Sansol across on a hilltop. It takes an hour to reach it with the last steep climb in full sun. We pass mountains of stacked hay and pass thru vineyards. There are old gnarled olive trees above the path as well as almonds & blackberries which I help myself to on the way by. From Sansol we descend around the hill , across a steam then again climb steeply to the old stone buildings and Knights Templar church of Torres del Rio. We take our lunch before heading off along the hot and dusty trail, winding our way thru hills, past stone cairns, thru pine forests - up & down. Sometimes so steep we have switchbacks one after the other. Finally we reach the Borgia gate and enter Viana. Here we check into the municipal refuge and are assigned a bed. Later we string a line between 2 trees to get somewhere to hang the washing. Dinner is tapas with Shona from South Africa and Isabel from Germany.

Day 83/84 Travelling West

Day 83- Cizur Menor to Cirauqui 27km
A noisy night but rise and shine is still at 6.30 with breakfast at the local bar. On across the plain in the early morning light. Most fields are ploughed or with drying sunflowers hanging their heads. The path us broad and stoney, cyclists struggle on even though they have a separate path they could take. Long shadows as we climb to Zariquiegui where we have a coffee break & visit the church. Upward and onwards towards the wind turbines and the metal statues that have become the symbol of the Camino, at Alto de Perdon. Over the top. & down the other side on what is one of the worst sections of the whole route with its large stony rubble that moves under every footstep. Definitely walking pole territory. Across fields of stubble , past the statue of the Virgin and into Uterga. The way continues along a ridge with almond trees & grape vines, thru Muruzabal, off the edge of the road on a steep path then another steep climb through Obanos with big brass scallop shells in the footpath to show the way. From here we track on through Puenta la Reina across its beautiful bridge and climb incredibly steeply up til we meet the highway. We pass thru Maneru before meandering through fields lightly undulating, through vineyards and finally climb the narrow streets of Cirauqui. We choose the private refuge Maralotx where we can have dinner downstairs in the Bodega. A very social night where the church bells ring every 1/4 hour right outside the window.

Day 84- Cirauqui to Villamayor de Monjardin - 24km Sat 16/8
A cool start with only a coffee to get us going. Down the Roman road before climbing to cross the highway then along farm tracks, twisting & turning, up & down, criss crossing under a highway and the canal high above as we head to Lorca 6kms away for breakfast. Here we can get fresh OJ, coffee and toast. The path is straight alongside the road, stoney & narrow between the tall weeds. High cloud, a flock of lammergeier soaring high on the thermals above us, then a herd of sheep contained by 2 sheep dogs & a shepherd at the edge of the path. We walk thru Villatuerta where everything g is quiet apart from a group if young revellers still up from the night before. The track is now narrow as we wind our way down and up then down again into Estella where we have lunch before again climbing upwards past the wine fountain at Irache, up the steep streets of Azqueta, then down to cross a stream and upwards on narrow paths to the broad farm road that brings us into Villamayor de Monjardin. Here we again choose the private Albergue which us run by Oasis Trails, a Dutch Christian organisation. It is hard to believe but within an hour another Australian arrives. A young woman from Echuca whose parents I know. Small small world. We have a great night with the best food and the possibility to join in a meditation time after dinner.

Day 81-82 More of Spain.

Day 81-Roncesvalles to Zubiri - 22
Rained in the night and a cool start. Through woods & forests, across small waterways with stones stacked on top of each other to form a bridge. Steep up after Viskarette on corrugated exposed aggregate concrete to give grip on the slope. We meet a family with 2 children walking to Pamplona. Mossy stone walls, narrow pathways watching every step. Down the slippery stoney slope to Zubiri. The path is very rocky where sometimes the stone firms natural steps and at other places we walk on the edges or flat slabs. Across the Rio Arga on the Rabies Bridge. We get beds in the private albergue Zaldiko and later enjoy dinner at the bar run by the same family. It is cold and wet in the afternoon so are glad to have finished early.

Day 82- Zubiri to Cizur Menor thru Pamplona. 24.5km
We breakfast at a very modern Cafe de Camino before heading back across the bridge, turn right, and upward. Thru tiny hamlets but so different from France. Most of these have an operating bar or small shop (tienda). Along the narrow path between the rock walls, up and down around the contour of the hills. We stop at Zuriain for coffee right beside the river where we watch the local Parks service add fish by the net full to the river. From here we climb to Irotz, past the church then down to cross the Rio Arga again on the Puente de Iturgaiz, thru the village of Zabaldika before climbing again. Coming into Pamplona there are bright blue and yellow signs a meter square to show the way. Then up thru the old city gates to the cathedral where we get a stamp. Lunch and a look around before heading out past the university to Cizur Menor where we check in with the Knights of Malta who have as their symbol a white Maltese cross on a red background.

Day 80-Spain

Day 80-St Jean Pied de Port - Roncesvalles-28km
How do I explain, the emotions, the feelings?  Despite the bed bug bites, despite the rain, it is such an amazing feeling walking up, up, up, through the mist and magic woods across the very ordinary cattle grid into Spain. The last country of my walk across Europe. Lots of other pilgrims, bells clongling from the cows and sheep which can mostly only be heard and not seen. Silhouettes of pilgrims high on the ridge ahead tells us where the path lies. When the breeze blows the mist away there are spectacular views and wild horses high on the grassy mountains, visible against the now blue sky. Suddenly we are at the top 1450m and then it is downhill on a very steep rocky path, thru woods and forests. 3.6km straight down to Roncesvalles. We check in to the old abbey which is staffed by Dutch volunteers who look after the 183 pilgrims who sleep here. Lights go out at 10pm and will come on automatically at 6am. Another step along the final road to Santiago.
Thank you to those who have made a recent donation. As explained previously I cannot send individual thankyous until I get home. God bless each and everyone of you reading my blog. I continue to count my blessings and am thankful for this opportunity to make a difference.

Day 77-79 to St Jean Pied de Port

Day 77 - Orthez to Sauveterre de Bearn/Osserain 23km
Slept last night in the tower. A special experience with the rain falling on the terracotta roof tops outside the window. We are required to take the road today due to an off road event happening along the pilgrim route. We cross the old Pont de Vieux, heading south thru the suburbs before stopping at Hopital d'Orion. Lots of hilly ups and downs. Getting practice for the Pyrenees to come. Idyllic views, green landscape, blue mountains, white cattle grazing. We stop for lunch under an old oak tree. Have had to tape the back of my boots where the lining had worn. I wonder why??? Lost another lug off my left boot this time. Will tape it later with new tape. We descend into Sauveterre de Bearn where it is market day. Visit the church overlooking the very muddy river. Our wonderful host Pascal picks us up to take us to his home in Osserain. It has been in the family for generations. He cooks a delicious meal and we have a great evening.

Day 78- Osserain to Ostabat - 21km

Damp & humid start, along roads, through the never ending maize fields, long shadows, distant blue hills, beautiful views all around, ancient stones marking the entrance to the old kingdom of Navarre. White cows, irrigation sprinklers, stone crosses, old railway lines to walk on. We are now on Basque territory with names in both French & Basque. The path climbs steeply before descending, past Celtic signs, warm sunshine, 360degree views. More pilgrims on the way now making their way westward. Into Ostabat, uphill of course then through the village, another km to our  farm stay. 34 guests here including a group of equestrians.

Day 79- Ostabat to St Jean Pied de Port 20km

A hot & noisy night, and would you believe it bed bugs. They love me. Rain overnight means wet walking today. Misty start, past a stone cross and thru the quiet streets of a small village. The path goes round the contour of the hill. Across the valley we can see a white church with tall steeple and hear the bell tolling 11am. We walk into St Jean Pied de Port after first climbing up to the base of the citadelle standing watch over the town, through the Porte Saint Jacques, and down to the Pilgrim Office where we register as pilgrims and get information on the way across Spain. Later we check in to our refuge for the night, Beilari, right across the street from the Pilgrim Office. We share a communal dinner in the refuge. Another milestone reached.

Day 75-76 St Sever to Orthez

Day 75-Thur 7/8- St Sever to Beyries 28kms
I start the day by making an omelette for breakfast. Good walking food. Out through the town, past an iron cross and, hanging on one door, a baguette tucked under the knocker. This mornings bread delivery? More fields of maize, about the only crop visible around here, down along the stream, turn left across the bridge past sunflowers which have lost their golden coulor and are hanging their heads. We pass a mill house with a clear stream of water &  pretty flower filled garden. I have noticed the difference between this region and areas further north. Here communities seem more prosperous with more visible activity, life (people) and well kept farms, less tumbledown. More road walking. Gently undulating, under a railway bridge, past the man with his scythe over his shoulder and on into Hagetmau. Here we get supplies for tonight as there is nothing in the village we are staying in. After leaving Hagetmau we take a detour to stop at a restaurant for a hot meal. The workers are there having lunch and it is busy.  We go with the menu of the day, cold seafood pasta, beef skewers swimming in a plate of peas then prune flan to finish. We reconnect with our pilgrim route down another road, past the white angel statue and into Labastide-Chalosse. Up a long hill then down and another long uphill. The bitumen is hot with little shade to give us some respite. The road rises and rises until Argelos. Then a sharp steep descent followed by an equivalent ascent then another steep down and up until finally we get to Beyries. Here we are staying in the community centre. Rather basic to say the least. I get an army stretcher which is actually quite comfortable. The shower consists of a shower rose situated on the wall just above and between 2 urinals. There is a plastic square grid to stand on with the drain hole in the floor half a metre away. Interesting but at least the water was hot. Just another experience on the pilgrim way across France.

Day 76- Beyries to Orthez 17 km
We start in the misty morning. Everything feels damp but no rain and for that we are thankful. Past more new housing developments, and old buildings being renovated. New signage for the way now. It changes from region to region although a general theme of yellow arrow and blue stylised scallop shell is the underlying design. Plenty of ups and downs as we go through hills and valleys, between the ever present fields of maize/corn. We stop in Sault de Navailles for breakfast. Plenty of today with home made fig conserve, orange juice & coffee. Across the river on an old stone bridge, views across the fields and then our first eucalypt trees. I have to pick some to carry along for the day. Smells of home. Along the way here a friends group has planted fruit trees for future pilgrims to enjoy. More forest paths, under the chestnut trees, then past the agricultural school and the goose farm with lots of goslings hissing gently altogether. We descend into the medieval centre of Orthez, past the high tower Moncade, through the narrow streets to the church square. Here we have a delicious lunch then at 2pm we can check into the Pilgrim Refuge at Hotel de Lune, an ancient tall tower where we climb the spiral staircase to the 2nd floor. Just like Rapunzel's tower, overlooking a neat little courtyard with herb gardens in raised beds. So blessed to experience all this.

Days 72-74 on the road to Spain

Day 72- Mon 4/8-Captieux to Roquefort 34 kms
Back to the old railway line again which we follow for much of the day. Flat & straight, heathland, moors and pine forests. The ferns are tall under the pine trees, lots of sweet ripe blackberries to pick along the way. We stop in Bourriot for lunch but nothing is available at the bar/restaurant so we get a cold drink & some cheese which we devour with a croissant and potato chips we have with us. From here the path goes back to the railway track. The weather is warm, no shade straight & flat. Again we enter forest which winds right and left and right and left and finally make it into Roquefort at 4.30pm.
8and a half hours. A tough day but we soon refresh and recuperate at the refuge run by Friends of the Camino which has all modern facilities.

Day 73- Roquefort - Mont de Marsan -30kms
We plan a shorter day today to see how we go. We are soon walking off road which is very pleasant although sandy which kicks up into our boots requiring regular stops to tip it out. Pretty wild flowers. In the small hamlet of Bostens we come across a room attached to the church where pilgrims can take a break and make a coffee. A delightful oasis to enjoy. We walk on into Gailleries where we have a cd drink then head off again. Sparse tall pine trees all that's left of a former plantation. Clouds are really pretty today in the blue blue sky. 3 fighter jets scream overhead. There is a base nearby and we hear noisy take offs all night. In Bougue where we had planned to stay the bar has no bread or sandwiches or food to buy so we continue on to Mont de Marsan. Up the hill, turn left then right onto a paved bicycle track/ footpath. The old railway line again. We make it into Mont de Marsan at 4.30 and are quickly settled in to our refuge for the night. An old building with high ceilings but hot and noisy. There are 6 altogether. Another day closer to Spain.

Day 74- Mont de Marsan to St Sever - 20km
We start with coffee and pastries at the local boulangerie. It takes a while to get out of town but then we go through the middle of a ploughed paddock. Ploughed except for the track we are on. In Benquet there is a new housing development being built. Underground centralised waste disposal system installed with all the other services. Very smart. Through corn fields, along the bitumen road, then off road up the hill with sandy soil, grassy and deep tracks so we walk on the high ground in the middle. Back on bitumen which is now hot from the sun which has been shining since early morning. We track alongside a freeway then around the small village of St Eulallie before crossing the very muddy Adour river, turn left past the broken iron cross and take the last steep stony track to the historic centre of St Sever. Here we check in to our refuge at the Tourism Office then relax with a meal on the town square. Another great day in the south of France.

Day 69-71 Chemin de St Jacques Voie de Vezelay

Day 69- Saint Ferme-La Reole (Pondaurat) 20km
A light breakfast. I'm being kind here. We supplement it with croissants & pastries from the boulangerie. Up past the cemetery, along the road with tall maize/corn & grape vines growing in fields. Gentle ups and downs. Have noticed for some time what look like old grinding wheels from mills sitting like guard dogs at the entrance to farms or at gateways and even on corners. This is later confirmed by our hosts that the large stone wheels were indeed once used to grind grain, usually turned by a donkey or a horse. Up and over a rise and no more grapevines, but more sunflowers with their bright yellow faces turned towards the sun, past the donkeys and it's time to take a break at the cemetery in Roquebrune. Here Judi has a turn at winding the brass knob on the water fountain to produce lovely cold fresh drinking water. More bitumen, another grinding stone, and finally we leave the bitumen. For all of 6/7 minutes. Entering La Reole we pass the former residence of the Black Prince, turn left around the Hotel de Ville Ancien, where Richard the Lionheart lived at some stage. We sit nearby to have lunch and very bravely order a bottle of Artisan cider made in Brittany which we drink from pottery bowls. It smells like the farmyards we have been passing thru (very earthy) and although very dry was quite drinkable. Our host picks us up at the church and off we go to settle into the farmhouse at Pondaurat. But first we visit the church there which, at 4pm, has the bells ringing, in unison with all other churches across France in remembrance of 100 yrs since the start of World War 1. Part of history. We have an amazing evening with our hosts Nicole & Michel and their friends.

Day 70- Sat 2/8- Pondaurat to Bazas
Judi leaves us this morning to meet up with her Aussie friends to hike Mont Blanc. And then there were 2 pilgrims again. We set off across the stone medieval bridge, past the Chateau and on into Savignac where we buy provisions got the way. Off road for a while which is easier on the feet & less wearing on the boots. Through the forest where hunters are setting up their very extensive hides for the upcoming hunting season. The way takes us on an uphill climb for several kms past hazelnut trees under irrigation. In Brouqueyran we take a short detour to visit the 11thC church where we sit on a tombstone to eat our lunch and refill water bottles. The route here has recently changed and is much longer going round the chateau, down to the lake, around the lake then a steep climb up thru the forest of ancient oaks. Finally into Bazas where our host Elienne picks us up. A beautiful modern home with gorgeous garden. Gilbert & Elienne make us feel at home as we enjoy a delightful meal alfresco.

Day 71- Bazas to Captieux- 18km
We visit the boulangerie before heading off along the old railway line. Overcast and sunny in patches. Delightful walking, flat except where the original bridges are gone & we have to scramble down the back up again. The cicadas are noisy and when they go quiet we know it is on with the wet weather gear. Lots of thunder & lightning then down comes the rain. Nowhere to take shelter we go on. Drenched through in no time at all. Squelching/sloshing in our boots. We finally come on a farm shed where we take cover after navigating the pond in the yard. Here we hang ourselves out to dry and wait for more than an hour before walking the last 4kms into Captieux. We find our way to the Pilgrim Refuge where we are soon comfortable. After visiting the local corner shop I whip up dinner and relax with a bottle of wine. So blessed to have all our needs met.