Wednesday, 13 August 2014

Day 77-79 to St Jean Pied de Port

Day 77 - Orthez to Sauveterre de Bearn/Osserain 23km
Slept last night in the tower. A special experience with the rain falling on the terracotta roof tops outside the window. We are required to take the road today due to an off road event happening along the pilgrim route. We cross the old Pont de Vieux, heading south thru the suburbs before stopping at Hopital d'Orion. Lots of hilly ups and downs. Getting practice for the Pyrenees to come. Idyllic views, green landscape, blue mountains, white cattle grazing. We stop for lunch under an old oak tree. Have had to tape the back of my boots where the lining had worn. I wonder why??? Lost another lug off my left boot this time. Will tape it later with new tape. We descend into Sauveterre de Bearn where it is market day. Visit the church overlooking the very muddy river. Our wonderful host Pascal picks us up to take us to his home in Osserain. It has been in the family for generations. He cooks a delicious meal and we have a great evening.

Day 78- Osserain to Ostabat - 21km

Damp & humid start, along roads, through the never ending maize fields, long shadows, distant blue hills, beautiful views all around, ancient stones marking the entrance to the old kingdom of Navarre. White cows, irrigation sprinklers, stone crosses, old railway lines to walk on. We are now on Basque territory with names in both French & Basque. The path climbs steeply before descending, past Celtic signs, warm sunshine, 360degree views. More pilgrims on the way now making their way westward. Into Ostabat, uphill of course then through the village, another km to our  farm stay. 34 guests here including a group of equestrians.

Day 79- Ostabat to St Jean Pied de Port 20km

A hot & noisy night, and would you believe it bed bugs. They love me. Rain overnight means wet walking today. Misty start, past a stone cross and thru the quiet streets of a small village. The path goes round the contour of the hill. Across the valley we can see a white church with tall steeple and hear the bell tolling 11am. We walk into St Jean Pied de Port after first climbing up to the base of the citadelle standing watch over the town, through the Porte Saint Jacques, and down to the Pilgrim Office where we register as pilgrims and get information on the way across Spain. Later we check in to our refuge for the night, Beilari, right across the street from the Pilgrim Office. We share a communal dinner in the refuge. Another milestone reached.

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