Day 75-Thur 7/8- St Sever to Beyries 28kms
I start the day by making an omelette for breakfast. Good walking food. Out through the town, past an iron cross and, hanging on one door, a baguette tucked under the knocker. This mornings bread delivery? More fields of maize, about the only crop visible around here, down along the stream, turn left across the bridge past sunflowers which have lost their golden coulor and are hanging their heads. We pass a mill house with a clear stream of water & pretty flower filled garden. I have noticed the difference between this region and areas further north. Here communities seem more prosperous with more visible activity, life (people) and well kept farms, less tumbledown. More road walking. Gently undulating, under a railway bridge, past the man with his scythe over his shoulder and on into Hagetmau. Here we get supplies for tonight as there is nothing in the village we are staying in. After leaving Hagetmau we take a detour to stop at a restaurant for a hot meal. The workers are there having lunch and it is busy. We go with the menu of the day, cold seafood pasta, beef skewers swimming in a plate of peas then prune flan to finish. We reconnect with our pilgrim route down another road, past the white angel statue and into Labastide-Chalosse. Up a long hill then down and another long uphill. The bitumen is hot with little shade to give us some respite. The road rises and rises until Argelos. Then a sharp steep descent followed by an equivalent ascent then another steep down and up until finally we get to Beyries. Here we are staying in the community centre. Rather basic to say the least. I get an army stretcher which is actually quite comfortable. The shower consists of a shower rose situated on the wall just above and between 2 urinals. There is a plastic square grid to stand on with the drain hole in the floor half a metre away. Interesting but at least the water was hot. Just another experience on the pilgrim way across France.
Day 76- Beyries to Orthez 17 km
We start in the misty morning. Everything feels damp but no rain and for that we are thankful. Past more new housing developments, and old buildings being renovated. New signage for the way now. It changes from region to region although a general theme of yellow arrow and blue stylised scallop shell is the underlying design. Plenty of ups and downs as we go through hills and valleys, between the ever present fields of maize/corn. We stop in Sault de Navailles for breakfast. Plenty of today with home made fig conserve, orange juice & coffee. Across the river on an old stone bridge, views across the fields and then our first eucalypt trees. I have to pick some to carry along for the day. Smells of home. Along the way here a friends group has planted fruit trees for future pilgrims to enjoy. More forest paths, under the chestnut trees, then past the agricultural school and the goose farm with lots of goslings hissing gently altogether. We descend into the medieval centre of Orthez, past the high tower Moncade, through the narrow streets to the church square. Here we have a delicious lunch then at 2pm we can check into the Pilgrim Refuge at Hotel de Lune, an ancient tall tower where we climb the spiral staircase to the 2nd floor. Just like Rapunzel's tower, overlooking a neat little courtyard with herb gardens in raised beds. So blessed to experience all this.
No comments:
Post a Comment