Day 64-Perigeux to St Astier - Sun 27/7. 27 kms
We start the day in style with a buffet breakfast. Yay!! Not just bread & jam. Despite the route bring recently changed route marking is not good. A few wrong turns are later corrected. Lots of ups and downs, stoney paths, a long stretch of bitumen thru the woods/forests. Warm and sunny. We take time to visit the abbey if Chancelade where we meet a local lady who shows us around. We sit on a small bridge dangling our legs to eat a snack. We pass through only a couple of small hamlets with no services. Walking route signs are most confusing. After 18km we get a cold drink at Gravelle then along the canal, past a stone cross. The way is very rough on the steep descent into St Astier. Our accommodation is right on the river and very comfortable.
Day 65- St Astier-Mussidan. 24+km
Breakfast table set beautifully on the terrace, under cover, overlooking the river. We try to make a booking for tonight but can get only 2 beds & there are 3 of us. A rocky path and forest tracks. We start in drizzle but later, without warning it starts to rain. On with the rain gear and shelter for a while under the chestnut trees. We set off again , through the forests in the rain. We spy a hut and take shelter for a while waiting for the rain to ease. From St Louis sur l'Isle signage is poor and we end up taking the road for the last 5 kms, in the rain into Mussidan. 9 hours on the road today. After getting to the refuge the concierge finally comes around at 8pm to collect the money and stamp our passports and to tell Jean-Pierre he has a bed in another municipal building across the square. Together with the other pilgrims we enjoy a communal meal. They go off to the concert in the market square. I can hear the music as I lie in my bunk & write my journal.
Day 66- Tues 29/7 - Mussidan - St Foy la Grande. 33km
Up at an incredibly early hour of 5.45. The other pilgrims leave shortly after 6. It will be a long day. We buy food at the local boulangerie for the road. Through the forest on a track, past a field with mist on the ground, upwards on a grassy wide track, fields on one side woods on the other. Through bush land with bright yellow flowered prickly gorse and tall ferns. Plump blackberries damp with the morning dew. After the hamlet of St Gery we are on bitumen virtually all the way. In Montfaucon we have a picnic lunch and help ourselves to the fresh purple plums off the tree in front of the Mairie. The path eventually leaves the road up a very steep and rocky path beside the vines. The final descent into St Foy la Grande is on a steep, narrow, rocky path through woods, then a grassy meadow and across the bridge over the Dordogne river. Walking towards the church I meet my friend Christine who will host us at her home nearby. A stamp from the church, a cold drink and the day of walking is finally over. It has been a tough 3 days of walking and we are all tired so when Christine & Alan offer for us to stay another night we accept with pleasure.
Day 67- Wed 30/7- Lanquais
A rest day of enjoying friendship and hospitality. Lots of reminiscing and laughter as well as a walk with the dog Ellie, past the Chateau du Lanquais. Champagne at night to celebrate Judi's birthday.
Day 68- Thur 31/7- Pellegrue to Saint Ferme 8km
A lazy start so Christine & Alan drive us to Pellegrue where we have a drink together before walking on. A short day through vineyards, woods & fields of corn, past the iron cross and the abbey of San Ferme. We can check into the refuge only after 4pm so we spend some time nodding under the chestnut tree and in the church. 2 German pilgrims arrive towing a trailer. She sleeps in the chapel at the church snoring. They have chosen not to eat our communal meal tonight so, together with our hospitaleros we will be 5 at the dinner table.
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