Day 58-Mon 21/7- Saint-Martin-le-Vieux to Chalus. 17km
Skies are overcast as we set off just after 9am. It's a short day so the late start is not a problem. Today tho proved to be bitumen and more bitumen. Fortunately we can mostly use the centre of the road where there is no camber. Walking for many kms with one leg lower than the other can lead to all sorts of foot, ankle, hip, back & shoulder problems as being lopsided with a backpack is not good.
We pass a small stone hut standing alone in a grassy paddock, then, at the crossroads at Lavignac, a white iron cross with red flowers adorning it. Then it's uphill the 3 kms to Flavignac where we enjoy our morning coffee in a tiny little room, at the epicerie/bar/regional produce store, which we share with shelves of books and a photographic studio ( backdrop, lights & camera). The way takes us past another small stone cross set high on a stone pillar. The road continues to rise before us, past an old well, whispering firs, warm and overcast. Fields of green lucerne, hay bales and cattle. Along the sides of the path are chestnut, hazelnut and plum trees as well as blackberries with the occasional plump ripe berry just waiting for me to pick it. Sometimes it is so dark in the forest we almost need a light to see. We watch every step. Arrive in Chalus at 1.30 and have a meal at the local bar before calling our host who will pick us up to go to the gite which is out of town. Very comfortable room, sunny outdoor area and comfy beds. A real retreat. Dinner is delicious and we get to eat with our hosts which is a nice way to end the day.
Day 59- Chalus to La Coquille 17km
Breakfast is served at 8. Yoghurt, fresh bread with home made jams and I get to enjoy the home pressed apple juice which is served in an antique red cut glass wine glass. We drink our coffee from fine porcelain cups, the size of noodle bowls. Just a lovely way to start the day. We are driven back into town to start our walking where we left off yesterday. Down the hill to the viaduct then uphill, off road, through the long grass just to make sure our boots get wet, between the tall fields of maize growing either side, then into a dark forest, with a mudflat, puddly path. At Le Lac we watch as a farmer talks to his sick bull which is lying down and which, when it does get up just staggers around then lies down again. At Montchaty the track goes around the manor house with its long, high stone walls, white gates, and complex of stone buildings. We take a coffee break at Firbeix which is on the very busy N21, the major transport road to Spain. The road leads us past fields up and down.
A small deer crosses in front of us. All day we can hear water running & tumbling in nearby waterways, many of which we cross either on little bridges. We arrive in La Coquille at 1.30 in time to have lunch and a cold drink before the refuge opens at 4.30.
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