Day 60-La Coquille to Thiviers-21km
Green fields, haybales, cattle, views across the valleys, warm, still and humid. Along forest paths, climbing upwards and descending through rural countryside. Into Thiviers in time for lunch of goats cheese salad. Lovely B&B overlooking a picturesque valley. Sharing with a French girl Nathalie.
Day 61-Thiviers to Sorges-18+kms
Dutch style breakfast from our Dutch hosts, includes bread, ham & cheese. Start off by visiting the boulangerie and the big duck then past the old stone cross, we leave the road down a leafy lane with colourful hollyhocks against the ancient stone wall. Under the viaduct, grassy paths through open fields and grasslands. The countryside is changing as we go deeper into the Perigord. Home if foie gras and truffles. We pass through an orchard of newly planted walnut trees as well as more mature plantations. Hazelnut and chestnut trees line the path and we also get to eat the luscious fat blackberries. Cool drink and icecream at the recently opened bar in Negrondes then head off in the hot sunshine stoney unmade paths. No mud today which makes a pleasant change. We stay at a refuge managed by the friends of the Chemin de St Jacques. Community meal with our warden and other pilgrims.
Day 62-Fri 25/7-Sorges to Perigeux.
Today we are walking with Nathalie the French pilgrim. Along farm tracks and forest paths. New signage for the new route here is very good. Between ancient stone walls. If only the stones could talk. We pass through a delightful camping area with permanent tents. Lots if Dutch families enjoying their summer break. Past the Chateau of Caussade behind a high fence. We stop for lunch on the outskirts of Perigeux before taking on the bitumen walking into the city. We go directly to the new pilgrim refuge which is new - since April. Welcomed by our wardens with a cold drink we settle in before going out to explore the old town.
Day 63- In Perigeux - a rest day.
Today the Tour de France is coming to town on the last stage (20) before Paris. We get a spot right at the barricades 250 metres before the finish line. Lots of festivities before the first of the celebrity cyclists arrive in a pack- fundraising for a children's charity. Late morning the first of the competitors arrive, first the motorcycle escort with lights flashing, then the cyclist who is followed closely by the support cars with the name of the competitor on the front. Here is where I get a photo of Dempster, one of the Australians. It all flashes by in an instant. Great fun. I go off for a while then return to see the last 20 or so of the top riders. We wait up to meet Judi off the last train into Perigeux after 11pm.
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