Day 38-40

Day 38- Arcy-sur-Cure to Vezelay - Tues July 1- 22 kms
Another beautiful day for walking. Leaving Arcy we pass the chateau & ruins if earlier buildings, perhaps a wall and it's watchtowers. Through forests where we climb steadily, minding every step as we watch for rocks & tree roots on the path. Shady paths with dappled sunlight, past a worn cross to emerge into a sunny meadow, downwards to Saint More- hollyhocks  & sweet peas. Stone buildings with so much character and warmth but so many in a state of disrepair. We follow the Cure river between the water & the walls of limestone. We eat our cherries in La Jarrie, and buy nectarines from a travelling epicerie. We also meet the travelling baker on our way out of town and get some bread fir lunch. After a steep climb we can see Vezelay away in the distance. Then a very steep and awkward down hill rocky slope to a meadow of wild grasses. Just outside the village of Asquins we pause for a while at the red wooden cross under the linden tree before going on past the white wooden cross towards our mountain top destination. Vezelay draws closer. Upwards, upwards and up, so very steep 'til finally we come out on the square in front of the basilica of Vezelay. It is so very beautiful for its simplicity and lack of adornment. We stay at St Madeleine pilgrim accommodation where we again meet up with Siets. Here we meet Hiltrud a German lass who joins us for Jozef's last dinner. He will return home tomorrow & we will miss him.

Day 39- Vezelay to le Chemin-25km
I go to the basilica for the beginning of the 7am service but leave after 15 minutes. After breakfast we  farewell Jozef on his bus then head off down the hill to Dt Peter sous Vezelay. Vezelay is one of the major starting points for pilgrims walking from France but we see only a few, most if whom started elsewhere. In Bazoches we buy a cold drink and later discover that the German guide book describes the village as not welcoming pilgrims. We later discover a gite here even refused to accept a black lady who had a reservation, and this in the last 3 months. Some of the way today is along shady paths but most is in the sun on bitumen, with steep ups and downs. We arrive into le Chemin where we are staying with people who I have stayed with previously in St Jean Pied de Port, Huberta & Arno at L'Esprit du Chemin. They have sold their refuge in St Jean and opened a new one here. Just fabulous, even though the masons are still working. A medieval building with walled gardens. Beautiful. Our room ovelooks the village of Anthien.

Day 40- Le Chemin to Guipy- 27 kms
Down the hill to Anthien, warm & sunny. Too much bitumen roads. Chitry-les-Mines where many children are enjoying an end of school picnic under the shade of the giant chestnut trees. Sun shine all day with little shade. More upwards paths to Le Bouquin, then down to Pazy before climbing again past a farm with stone walls and a round tower with scenic views over surrounding pasture. Cows white & brown come to greet us as we pass by. 80+ year old Phillippe Oger hosts us tonight. He cooks a delicious meal which we eat under the linden tree with heavy silver cutlery & crystal glasses for the wine. In the garden are many pots if brightly coloured geraniums but the house is in need of some care and repair as well as a thorough going over. But, we enjoy a pleasant evening and a friendly chat.