Day 52-Tues 15/7-Crozant to La Souterraine- 24.5km
We make our own breakfast at our refuge here on the mountain top before leaving. Sun is shining as we descend around the hill on a stoney path to the valley of the Sedelle river. We follow an artists walk, a favourite spot for artists of the Crozant School. Unfortunately it all changed here after 1926 when the next valley was flooded after the construction of the Crozant dam on the Creuse river. The water here flows swiftly, tumbling across rocks and over the man made wall. We pass by the water mill Boucharden which features in paintings by Armand Guillaumin. There are pretty stone houses in a pretty valley. We walk a quiet bitumen road, past the old station house of la Chapelle-Balou with it's faded sign, past the moss covered stone cross & into the village. We stop for coffee and home made cherry cake with Elaine, a British woman who lives here and operates a gite/cafe/bar. She tells us the next 17kms into la Souterraine are flat, on a busy road & there is nothing along the way. All statements prove to be wrong. Not only do we go up to pass the church but the road continues on a gradual up hill slope for along time. We get occasional undulations, anything but flat. It is very quiet with little traffic. We go off road for a while, past haybales all in a row. A short break at a picnic spot near a Lavoir, beside a lake then climb up past the chateau of Saint-Germaine-Beaupre, past the overgrown gate, thru the town square, past the church & water pump. The scenery is idyllic & rural, white fluffy clouds in a clear blue sky. The path again leaves the bitumen, along a farm track, between fences, lots of puddles in the trenches either side but the high ground in the middle is dry. In Saint-Agnant-de-Versillant we stop for a cold drink & a rest at a cafe. Here we are served by an English girl, visiting her French father. At 2.45 we get into the centre of la Souterraine through the Porte Saint Jean. We settle into our lovely accommodation run by an English couple. Dinner is served in the garden with the sun still shining.
Day 53-la Souterraine to Benevent l'Abbaye- 20kms
Despite the uncomfortable beds I overslept. Breakfast was requested for 8-the earliest- & after first waking at 6.15 I didn't wake again until 8.15. No problem except we had agreed to meet another pilgrim, Jose, at 8.45-9.00. I hurry out at 5 to 9 and the three of us finally leave the church at 9.15. This is a late start, but only a short stage. Nearly all on bitumen today which soon heats up. Following the signs we pass some lakes and fields, hedgerows and old oak trees. Coffee break at the bar in Saint-Priest-la-Feuille. Here JP adjusts his pedometer which has accidentally changed the length of his stride. On the occasional off road track we are passed by a string of horse riders. This is an area popular for equestrian tourism. Landscape here us similar to that in parts of the Yarra Valley looking towards Mt Donna Buang and the high country. The last 3.5kms are uphill all the way on hot bitumen, where we leave our footprints in it. A winding road with not much shade. At last our destination, a shady bar and a long cold drink. Our host tonight is also English, Claire. There are 2 German and 2 Belgian pilgrims sharing the room. 3 double bunks. Outside is a gorgeous little sunny terrace where we can sit and relax. Good wifi & dinner for us at 7.
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