Day 103- Trabadelo to Triacastela - 39km Thur 4/9
Two pilgrims get up at 4.30 which sort of determines my day. A cool start in the Valcarce valley as the route criss crosses the rio Valcarce several times. The Hotel Valcarce is lit up like a Christmas tree and shines like a beacon in the pre dawn darkness. I stop at Ambasmetas for breakfast, toast with Vegemite. Yum. Here in the valley a highway has been built on pylons probably 50m up above the small villages. So now instead of heavy transports going thru the village you can here them high above. In Herrerias a big friendly bull looks me in the eye then wanders off for his day in the meadow with his cows. Along the road for a bit before heading left gently down then up, climbing up & up to La Faba where I stop for a cold drink. Upwards for the next hour or so. Fabulous views across the valleys and the mountains shrouded in mist. Then the welcome wall of O'Cebreiro at 1330m, I've climbed 700 metres since starting this morning. The path goes up and then down again before rising to Alto San Roque at 1270m. Past wild dianthus, pretty in pink amongst the other wild flowers. Now the old km markers start counting down to Santiago. No longer accurate but an indication that the end of the walking is approaching. A pity they have been spoiled by graffiti. I give the albergue at Hospital de la Condesa a miss when I see the 4.30am risers waiting there. At Alto do Poio the wind is strong & cold so I continue until making Triacastela. Here I can get a single room in a pension. Oh bliss. A towel & sheets. Yay. A really great day.
Day 104- Triacastela to Sarria 19km
A nice short day is planned and it works out well. A start in the early morning mist hanging around the valley, but not cold. Thru San Xil where the small chapel is now an art space, open @ 8 in the morning. Through the middle of another farmyard at Montan, with liquid cow pats on the path & chickens scratching, roosters crowing, & a dog sleeping amongst the pilgrim traffic. More misty mountains, the scallop dominated fountain, stone fences, ancient trees & slate roofs on stone buildings. Trees are already starting to lose their leaves which flutter down around our feet. The way is up & down, sometimes more difficult than others. Church bells ring out through the mist, echoing around the valley as I descend into Sarria, past the 112km post. It is from here that many pilgrims start their journey to Santiago as in order to get a Compostela, pilgrims must prove they have walked 100kms. Later I meet a couple from Holland who were dropped off by their bus at 103km. In Sarria I check in to Pension Matias. A lovely single room tucked up amongst the slate roofs of the adjoining buildings in the old town.
Day 105- Sarria to Portomarin 23km
After a great buffet breakfast at Matias the way is up, past the market, setting up for the day. Great views over sleepy Sarria in the valley below. Then a very steep descent to cross a small stone medieval bridge, alongside then across the railway line on the rocky path, through forests it climbs steeply between the centuries old oak trees, gnarled, broad & shady. As the sun rises behind me it is clear this will be another beautiful day. After 2 hours a coffee stop where the farmer moves her cows alongside then across the road. Climbing between moss covered stone fences/walls, another stone cross, old stone buildings with slate roofs, some tumbling down. Out of the woods, thru Ferrerios, down the hill to Mirallis where another farming couple are moving their cows, straight down the middle of the road. It stops the traffics but not some rather silly pilgrims who just walk thru the middle of the herd. It's another long steep down to cross the rio Mino on the high bridge into Portomarin. Then up the steep stone steps on the other side and under the archway I turn left where I check in to Albergue Ferramenteiro. This albergue has beds for 130 pilgrims in one long room divided by curtains. It is immaculate and everything works. Here all the bunks are made up with their disposable bottom sheet & pillowcase. It almost looks like a hospital except they are bunk beds. The staff even wear long white tops. The view over the dammed river is just beautiful. A great meal at the Mirador restaurant later tops off another great day.
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