Day 64-Perigeux to St Astier - Sun 27/7. 27 kms
We start the day in style with a buffet breakfast. Yay!! Not just bread & jam. Despite the route bring recently changed route marking is not good. A few wrong turns are later corrected. Lots of ups and downs, stoney paths, a long stretch of bitumen thru the woods/forests. Warm and sunny. We take time to visit the abbey if Chancelade where we meet a local lady who shows us around. We sit on a small bridge dangling our legs to eat a snack. We pass through only a couple of small hamlets with no services. Walking route signs are most confusing. After 18km we get a cold drink at Gravelle then along the canal, past a stone cross. The way is very rough on the steep descent into St Astier. Our accommodation is right on the river and very comfortable.
Day 65- St Astier-Mussidan. 24+km
Breakfast table set beautifully on the terrace, under cover, overlooking the river. We try to make a booking for tonight but can get only 2 beds & there are 3 of us. A rocky path and forest tracks. We start in drizzle but later, without warning it starts to rain. On with the rain gear and shelter for a while under the chestnut trees. We set off again , through the forests in the rain. We spy a hut and take shelter for a while waiting for the rain to ease. From St Louis sur l'Isle signage is poor and we end up taking the road for the last 5 kms, in the rain into Mussidan. 9 hours on the road today. After getting to the refuge the concierge finally comes around at 8pm to collect the money and stamp our passports and to tell Jean-Pierre he has a bed in another municipal building across the square. Together with the other pilgrims we enjoy a communal meal. They go off to the concert in the market square. I can hear the music as I lie in my bunk & write my journal.
Day 66- Tues 29/7 - Mussidan - St Foy la Grande. 33km
Up at an incredibly early hour of 5.45. The other pilgrims leave shortly after 6. It will be a long day. We buy food at the local boulangerie for the road. Through the forest on a track, past a field with mist on the ground, upwards on a grassy wide track, fields on one side woods on the other. Through bush land with bright yellow flowered prickly gorse and tall ferns. Plump blackberries damp with the morning dew. After the hamlet of St Gery we are on bitumen virtually all the way. In Montfaucon we have a picnic lunch and help ourselves to the fresh purple plums off the tree in front of the Mairie. The path eventually leaves the road up a very steep and rocky path beside the vines. The final descent into St Foy la Grande is on a steep, narrow, rocky path through woods, then a grassy meadow and across the bridge over the Dordogne river. Walking towards the church I meet my friend Christine who will host us at her home nearby. A stamp from the church, a cold drink and the day of walking is finally over. It has been a tough 3 days of walking and we are all tired so when Christine & Alan offer for us to stay another night we accept with pleasure.
Day 67- Wed 30/7- Lanquais
A rest day of enjoying friendship and hospitality. Lots of reminiscing and laughter as well as a walk with the dog Ellie, past the Chateau du Lanquais. Champagne at night to celebrate Judi's birthday.
Day 68- Thur 31/7- Pellegrue to Saint Ferme 8km
A lazy start so Christine & Alan drive us to Pellegrue where we have a drink together before walking on. A short day through vineyards, woods & fields of corn, past the iron cross and the abbey of San Ferme. We can check into the refuge only after 4pm so we spend some time nodding under the chestnut tree and in the church. 2 German pilgrims arrive towing a trailer. She sleeps in the chapel at the church snoring. They have chosen not to eat our communal meal tonight so, together with our hospitaleros we will be 5 at the dinner table.
Thursday, 31 July 2014
Wednesday, 30 July 2014
Day 60-63 in the south of France
Day 60-La Coquille to Thiviers-21km
Green fields, haybales, cattle, views across the valleys, warm, still and humid. Along forest paths, climbing upwards and descending through rural countryside. Into Thiviers in time for lunch of goats cheese salad. Lovely B&B overlooking a picturesque valley. Sharing with a French girl Nathalie.
Day 61-Thiviers to Sorges-18+kms
Dutch style breakfast from our Dutch hosts, includes bread, ham & cheese. Start off by visiting the boulangerie and the big duck then past the old stone cross, we leave the road down a leafy lane with colourful hollyhocks against the ancient stone wall. Under the viaduct, grassy paths through open fields and grasslands. The countryside is changing as we go deeper into the Perigord. Home if foie gras and truffles. We pass through an orchard of newly planted walnut trees as well as more mature plantations. Hazelnut and chestnut trees line the path and we also get to eat the luscious fat blackberries. Cool drink and icecream at the recently opened bar in Negrondes then head off in the hot sunshine stoney unmade paths. No mud today which makes a pleasant change. We stay at a refuge managed by the friends of the Chemin de St Jacques. Community meal with our warden and other pilgrims.
Day 62-Fri 25/7-Sorges to Perigeux.
Today we are walking with Nathalie the French pilgrim. Along farm tracks and forest paths. New signage for the new route here is very good. Between ancient stone walls. If only the stones could talk. We pass through a delightful camping area with permanent tents. Lots if Dutch families enjoying their summer break. Past the Chateau of Caussade behind a high fence. We stop for lunch on the outskirts of Perigeux before taking on the bitumen walking into the city. We go directly to the new pilgrim refuge which is new - since April. Welcomed by our wardens with a cold drink we settle in before going out to explore the old town.
Day 63- In Perigeux - a rest day.
Today the Tour de France is coming to town on the last stage (20) before Paris. We get a spot right at the barricades 250 metres before the finish line. Lots of festivities before the first of the celebrity cyclists arrive in a pack- fundraising for a children's charity. Late morning the first of the competitors arrive, first the motorcycle escort with lights flashing, then the cyclist who is followed closely by the support cars with the name of the competitor on the front. Here is where I get a photo of Dempster, one of the Australians. It all flashes by in an instant. Great fun. I go off for a while then return to see the last 20 or so of the top riders. We wait up to meet Judi off the last train into Perigeux after 11pm.
Green fields, haybales, cattle, views across the valleys, warm, still and humid. Along forest paths, climbing upwards and descending through rural countryside. Into Thiviers in time for lunch of goats cheese salad. Lovely B&B overlooking a picturesque valley. Sharing with a French girl Nathalie.
Day 61-Thiviers to Sorges-18+kms
Dutch style breakfast from our Dutch hosts, includes bread, ham & cheese. Start off by visiting the boulangerie and the big duck then past the old stone cross, we leave the road down a leafy lane with colourful hollyhocks against the ancient stone wall. Under the viaduct, grassy paths through open fields and grasslands. The countryside is changing as we go deeper into the Perigord. Home if foie gras and truffles. We pass through an orchard of newly planted walnut trees as well as more mature plantations. Hazelnut and chestnut trees line the path and we also get to eat the luscious fat blackberries. Cool drink and icecream at the recently opened bar in Negrondes then head off in the hot sunshine stoney unmade paths. No mud today which makes a pleasant change. We stay at a refuge managed by the friends of the Chemin de St Jacques. Community meal with our warden and other pilgrims.
Day 62-Fri 25/7-Sorges to Perigeux.
Today we are walking with Nathalie the French pilgrim. Along farm tracks and forest paths. New signage for the new route here is very good. Between ancient stone walls. If only the stones could talk. We pass through a delightful camping area with permanent tents. Lots if Dutch families enjoying their summer break. Past the Chateau of Caussade behind a high fence. We stop for lunch on the outskirts of Perigeux before taking on the bitumen walking into the city. We go directly to the new pilgrim refuge which is new - since April. Welcomed by our wardens with a cold drink we settle in before going out to explore the old town.
Day 63- In Perigeux - a rest day.
Today the Tour de France is coming to town on the last stage (20) before Paris. We get a spot right at the barricades 250 metres before the finish line. Lots of festivities before the first of the celebrity cyclists arrive in a pack- fundraising for a children's charity. Late morning the first of the competitors arrive, first the motorcycle escort with lights flashing, then the cyclist who is followed closely by the support cars with the name of the competitor on the front. Here is where I get a photo of Dempster, one of the Australians. It all flashes by in an instant. Great fun. I go off for a while then return to see the last 20 or so of the top riders. We wait up to meet Judi off the last train into Perigeux after 11pm.
Tuesday, 22 July 2014
La Coquille, France Days 58-59
Day 58-Mon 21/7- Saint-Martin-le-Vieux to Chalus. 17km
Skies are overcast as we set off just after 9am. It's a short day so the late start is not a problem. Today tho proved to be bitumen and more bitumen. Fortunately we can mostly use the centre of the road where there is no camber. Walking for many kms with one leg lower than the other can lead to all sorts of foot, ankle, hip, back & shoulder problems as being lopsided with a backpack is not good.
We pass a small stone hut standing alone in a grassy paddock, then, at the crossroads at Lavignac, a white iron cross with red flowers adorning it. Then it's uphill the 3 kms to Flavignac where we enjoy our morning coffee in a tiny little room, at the epicerie/bar/regional produce store, which we share with shelves of books and a photographic studio ( backdrop, lights & camera). The way takes us past another small stone cross set high on a stone pillar. The road continues to rise before us, past an old well, whispering firs, warm and overcast. Fields of green lucerne, hay bales and cattle. Along the sides of the path are chestnut, hazelnut and plum trees as well as blackberries with the occasional plump ripe berry just waiting for me to pick it. Sometimes it is so dark in the forest we almost need a light to see. We watch every step. Arrive in Chalus at 1.30 and have a meal at the local bar before calling our host who will pick us up to go to the gite which is out of town. Very comfortable room, sunny outdoor area and comfy beds. A real retreat. Dinner is delicious and we get to eat with our hosts which is a nice way to end the day.
Day 59- Chalus to La Coquille 17km
Breakfast is served at 8. Yoghurt, fresh bread with home made jams and I get to enjoy the home pressed apple juice which is served in an antique red cut glass wine glass. We drink our coffee from fine porcelain cups, the size of noodle bowls. Just a lovely way to start the day. We are driven back into town to start our walking where we left off yesterday. Down the hill to the viaduct then uphill, off road, through the long grass just to make sure our boots get wet, between the tall fields of maize growing either side, then into a dark forest, with a mudflat, puddly path. At Le Lac we watch as a farmer talks to his sick bull which is lying down and which, when it does get up just staggers around then lies down again. At Montchaty the track goes around the manor house with its long, high stone walls, white gates, and complex of stone buildings. We take a coffee break at Firbeix which is on the very busy N21, the major transport road to Spain. The road leads us past fields up and down.
A small deer crosses in front of us. All day we can hear water running & tumbling in nearby waterways, many of which we cross either on little bridges. We arrive in La Coquille at 1.30 in time to have lunch and a cold drink before the refuge opens at 4.30.
Skies are overcast as we set off just after 9am. It's a short day so the late start is not a problem. Today tho proved to be bitumen and more bitumen. Fortunately we can mostly use the centre of the road where there is no camber. Walking for many kms with one leg lower than the other can lead to all sorts of foot, ankle, hip, back & shoulder problems as being lopsided with a backpack is not good.
We pass a small stone hut standing alone in a grassy paddock, then, at the crossroads at Lavignac, a white iron cross with red flowers adorning it. Then it's uphill the 3 kms to Flavignac where we enjoy our morning coffee in a tiny little room, at the epicerie/bar/regional produce store, which we share with shelves of books and a photographic studio ( backdrop, lights & camera). The way takes us past another small stone cross set high on a stone pillar. The road continues to rise before us, past an old well, whispering firs, warm and overcast. Fields of green lucerne, hay bales and cattle. Along the sides of the path are chestnut, hazelnut and plum trees as well as blackberries with the occasional plump ripe berry just waiting for me to pick it. Sometimes it is so dark in the forest we almost need a light to see. We watch every step. Arrive in Chalus at 1.30 and have a meal at the local bar before calling our host who will pick us up to go to the gite which is out of town. Very comfortable room, sunny outdoor area and comfy beds. A real retreat. Dinner is delicious and we get to eat with our hosts which is a nice way to end the day.
Day 59- Chalus to La Coquille 17km
Breakfast is served at 8. Yoghurt, fresh bread with home made jams and I get to enjoy the home pressed apple juice which is served in an antique red cut glass wine glass. We drink our coffee from fine porcelain cups, the size of noodle bowls. Just a lovely way to start the day. We are driven back into town to start our walking where we left off yesterday. Down the hill to the viaduct then uphill, off road, through the long grass just to make sure our boots get wet, between the tall fields of maize growing either side, then into a dark forest, with a mudflat, puddly path. At Le Lac we watch as a farmer talks to his sick bull which is lying down and which, when it does get up just staggers around then lies down again. At Montchaty the track goes around the manor house with its long, high stone walls, white gates, and complex of stone buildings. We take a coffee break at Firbeix which is on the very busy N21, the major transport road to Spain. The road leads us past fields up and down.
A small deer crosses in front of us. All day we can hear water running & tumbling in nearby waterways, many of which we cross either on little bridges. We arrive in La Coquille at 1.30 in time to have lunch and a cold drink before the refuge opens at 4.30.
Monday, 21 July 2014
Chalus, France 21 July
Good wifi. Seems to be improving the further south we go. Thankyou to those of you who have recently made a donation to Hamlin Fistula. Unfortunately I am unable to send proper thankyous through the website as I only have my iPhone & not a computer, and I don't have emails for everyone either. So a very big thankyou from me to you. Your donation will not only give someone a new life but in the training of midwives work towards preventing birth related injuries in the future.
Days 54-57
Benevent l'Abbaye to Chatelus-le-Marcheix to Saint-Leonard de Noblat to Limoges to Saint-Martin-le-Vieux to Chalus.
France is flashing by under my boots as I track south west towards the Spanish border. Weather has generally been kind, at least during walking hours, although we did get 2 days in a row over 30C. The landscape is changing to more hilly countryside which also means more lakes, ponds and expanses if water. We pass thru l'Abbaye, a tiny hamlet with a collection of stone buildings, formerly a priory for nuns, built in 1278. Long uphill climbs, often on muddy forest tracks that would be a watercourse when raining. The road takes us downhill then for almost 9kms.
From Chatelus we make an early start because the forecast is for hot weather & we have 30km to do. Today we pass thru some very scenic hamlets, really just a collection of houses. The off road sections of the trail are very overgrown which means our boots are soon wet from the heavy dew. In St Leonard we stay at the municipal gite next door to the church. Here we meet up with Jose from 2 days ago and also Siets, the Dutch Kiwi we last saw in Vezelay when she went the northern route via Bourges and we chose the southern route via Nevers. All through the night the clock on the church chimes every quarter hour and twice on the hour. Sounds like it is in the room with us.
We leave St Leonard as a group of 4 heading for Limoges. Apart from a short light shower we have fine weather. Along the road, across the paddocks, climbing hills and descending to valleys. After coffee at Eytiar (no milk available???) it is a very busy road heading into Limoges. We eventually get off road firs few hundre metres before getting into the residential area. Quiet streets and finally down to the Pont St Etienne across the Vienne river. Here we can follow the brass scallop shells in the cobblestone pavement that leads us up the steep winding path to the cathedral of St Etienne. Another milestone to make it to Limoges. Here we stay with the sisters of St Francis of Assisi, next door to the cathedral. At night another heavy thunderstorm with lightning, thunder and hailstones the size of marbles hammering on our roof window above my bed.
It's Sunday when we tackle the southern suburbs as we exit Limoges. We walk for hours along streets and roads in built up areas, apart from a short off road section where we pass a paddock with turkeys and geese. Foie Gras anyone?? We cross the bridge at Aixe-sur-Vienne, head up the hill and find a bar to have a drink and a break. Shortly after the suburbs are gone and we are back in rural France. The way takes us on a quiet country road beside a river which we can hear rushing and tumbling through mill races beside us. There are several old mills along this road. When we do catch a glimpse of the river we can see it is muddy and swollen from last nights thunderstorms. There is also evidence of the storm on the road which is littered with shredded leaves, limbs and fallen trees. Shortly after crossing the Aixette on a stone bridge we come across a pile of hailstones, still not melted at 11.30, despite the warm sunny day. We pass Chateau Judie, before crossing another stone bridge, turning right at the stone cross, and heading up the hill to Saint-Martin-le-Vieux. Here we enjoy a barbecue lunch of local (Limousin) sausages and crepes, with a group of bikers who have come to enjoy the fete. On and upward for another km before arriving at our gite where we are staying. A delightful goat farm where the lady of the house also makes goats cheese. We get to try some at dinner. Delicious.
Days 54-57
Benevent l'Abbaye to Chatelus-le-Marcheix to Saint-Leonard de Noblat to Limoges to Saint-Martin-le-Vieux to Chalus.
France is flashing by under my boots as I track south west towards the Spanish border. Weather has generally been kind, at least during walking hours, although we did get 2 days in a row over 30C. The landscape is changing to more hilly countryside which also means more lakes, ponds and expanses if water. We pass thru l'Abbaye, a tiny hamlet with a collection of stone buildings, formerly a priory for nuns, built in 1278. Long uphill climbs, often on muddy forest tracks that would be a watercourse when raining. The road takes us downhill then for almost 9kms.
From Chatelus we make an early start because the forecast is for hot weather & we have 30km to do. Today we pass thru some very scenic hamlets, really just a collection of houses. The off road sections of the trail are very overgrown which means our boots are soon wet from the heavy dew. In St Leonard we stay at the municipal gite next door to the church. Here we meet up with Jose from 2 days ago and also Siets, the Dutch Kiwi we last saw in Vezelay when she went the northern route via Bourges and we chose the southern route via Nevers. All through the night the clock on the church chimes every quarter hour and twice on the hour. Sounds like it is in the room with us.
We leave St Leonard as a group of 4 heading for Limoges. Apart from a short light shower we have fine weather. Along the road, across the paddocks, climbing hills and descending to valleys. After coffee at Eytiar (no milk available???) it is a very busy road heading into Limoges. We eventually get off road firs few hundre metres before getting into the residential area. Quiet streets and finally down to the Pont St Etienne across the Vienne river. Here we can follow the brass scallop shells in the cobblestone pavement that leads us up the steep winding path to the cathedral of St Etienne. Another milestone to make it to Limoges. Here we stay with the sisters of St Francis of Assisi, next door to the cathedral. At night another heavy thunderstorm with lightning, thunder and hailstones the size of marbles hammering on our roof window above my bed.
It's Sunday when we tackle the southern suburbs as we exit Limoges. We walk for hours along streets and roads in built up areas, apart from a short off road section where we pass a paddock with turkeys and geese. Foie Gras anyone?? We cross the bridge at Aixe-sur-Vienne, head up the hill and find a bar to have a drink and a break. Shortly after the suburbs are gone and we are back in rural France. The way takes us on a quiet country road beside a river which we can hear rushing and tumbling through mill races beside us. There are several old mills along this road. When we do catch a glimpse of the river we can see it is muddy and swollen from last nights thunderstorms. There is also evidence of the storm on the road which is littered with shredded leaves, limbs and fallen trees. Shortly after crossing the Aixette on a stone bridge we come across a pile of hailstones, still not melted at 11.30, despite the warm sunny day. We pass Chateau Judie, before crossing another stone bridge, turning right at the stone cross, and heading up the hill to Saint-Martin-le-Vieux. Here we enjoy a barbecue lunch of local (Limousin) sausages and crepes, with a group of bikers who have come to enjoy the fete. On and upward for another km before arriving at our gite where we are staying. A delightful goat farm where the lady of the house also makes goats cheese. We get to try some at dinner. Delicious.
Wednesday, 16 July 2014
Day 52-53 Benevent l'Abbaye, France
Day 52-Tues 15/7-Crozant to La Souterraine- 24.5km
We make our own breakfast at our refuge here on the mountain top before leaving. Sun is shining as we descend around the hill on a stoney path to the valley of the Sedelle river. We follow an artists walk, a favourite spot for artists of the Crozant School. Unfortunately it all changed here after 1926 when the next valley was flooded after the construction of the Crozant dam on the Creuse river. The water here flows swiftly, tumbling across rocks and over the man made wall. We pass by the water mill Boucharden which features in paintings by Armand Guillaumin. There are pretty stone houses in a pretty valley. We walk a quiet bitumen road, past the old station house of la Chapelle-Balou with it's faded sign, past the moss covered stone cross & into the village. We stop for coffee and home made cherry cake with Elaine, a British woman who lives here and operates a gite/cafe/bar. She tells us the next 17kms into la Souterraine are flat, on a busy road & there is nothing along the way. All statements prove to be wrong. Not only do we go up to pass the church but the road continues on a gradual up hill slope for along time. We get occasional undulations, anything but flat. It is very quiet with little traffic. We go off road for a while, past haybales all in a row. A short break at a picnic spot near a Lavoir, beside a lake then climb up past the chateau of Saint-Germaine-Beaupre, past the overgrown gate, thru the town square, past the church & water pump. The scenery is idyllic & rural, white fluffy clouds in a clear blue sky. The path again leaves the bitumen, along a farm track, between fences, lots of puddles in the trenches either side but the high ground in the middle is dry. In Saint-Agnant-de-Versillant we stop for a cold drink & a rest at a cafe. Here we are served by an English girl, visiting her French father. At 2.45 we get into the centre of la Souterraine through the Porte Saint Jean. We settle into our lovely accommodation run by an English couple. Dinner is served in the garden with the sun still shining.
Day 53-la Souterraine to Benevent l'Abbaye- 20kms
Despite the uncomfortable beds I overslept. Breakfast was requested for 8-the earliest- & after first waking at 6.15 I didn't wake again until 8.15. No problem except we had agreed to meet another pilgrim, Jose, at 8.45-9.00. I hurry out at 5 to 9 and the three of us finally leave the church at 9.15. This is a late start, but only a short stage. Nearly all on bitumen today which soon heats up. Following the signs we pass some lakes and fields, hedgerows and old oak trees. Coffee break at the bar in Saint-Priest-la-Feuille. Here JP adjusts his pedometer which has accidentally changed the length of his stride. On the occasional off road track we are passed by a string of horse riders. This is an area popular for equestrian tourism. Landscape here us similar to that in parts of the Yarra Valley looking towards Mt Donna Buang and the high country. The last 3.5kms are uphill all the way on hot bitumen, where we leave our footprints in it. A winding road with not much shade. At last our destination, a shady bar and a long cold drink. Our host tonight is also English, Claire. There are 2 German and 2 Belgian pilgrims sharing the room. 3 double bunks. Outside is a gorgeous little sunny terrace where we can sit and relax. Good wifi & dinner for us at 7.
We make our own breakfast at our refuge here on the mountain top before leaving. Sun is shining as we descend around the hill on a stoney path to the valley of the Sedelle river. We follow an artists walk, a favourite spot for artists of the Crozant School. Unfortunately it all changed here after 1926 when the next valley was flooded after the construction of the Crozant dam on the Creuse river. The water here flows swiftly, tumbling across rocks and over the man made wall. We pass by the water mill Boucharden which features in paintings by Armand Guillaumin. There are pretty stone houses in a pretty valley. We walk a quiet bitumen road, past the old station house of la Chapelle-Balou with it's faded sign, past the moss covered stone cross & into the village. We stop for coffee and home made cherry cake with Elaine, a British woman who lives here and operates a gite/cafe/bar. She tells us the next 17kms into la Souterraine are flat, on a busy road & there is nothing along the way. All statements prove to be wrong. Not only do we go up to pass the church but the road continues on a gradual up hill slope for along time. We get occasional undulations, anything but flat. It is very quiet with little traffic. We go off road for a while, past haybales all in a row. A short break at a picnic spot near a Lavoir, beside a lake then climb up past the chateau of Saint-Germaine-Beaupre, past the overgrown gate, thru the town square, past the church & water pump. The scenery is idyllic & rural, white fluffy clouds in a clear blue sky. The path again leaves the bitumen, along a farm track, between fences, lots of puddles in the trenches either side but the high ground in the middle is dry. In Saint-Agnant-de-Versillant we stop for a cold drink & a rest at a cafe. Here we are served by an English girl, visiting her French father. At 2.45 we get into the centre of la Souterraine through the Porte Saint Jean. We settle into our lovely accommodation run by an English couple. Dinner is served in the garden with the sun still shining.
Day 53-la Souterraine to Benevent l'Abbaye- 20kms
Despite the uncomfortable beds I overslept. Breakfast was requested for 8-the earliest- & after first waking at 6.15 I didn't wake again until 8.15. No problem except we had agreed to meet another pilgrim, Jose, at 8.45-9.00. I hurry out at 5 to 9 and the three of us finally leave the church at 9.15. This is a late start, but only a short stage. Nearly all on bitumen today which soon heats up. Following the signs we pass some lakes and fields, hedgerows and old oak trees. Coffee break at the bar in Saint-Priest-la-Feuille. Here JP adjusts his pedometer which has accidentally changed the length of his stride. On the occasional off road track we are passed by a string of horse riders. This is an area popular for equestrian tourism. Landscape here us similar to that in parts of the Yarra Valley looking towards Mt Donna Buang and the high country. The last 3.5kms are uphill all the way on hot bitumen, where we leave our footprints in it. A winding road with not much shade. At last our destination, a shady bar and a long cold drink. Our host tonight is also English, Claire. There are 2 German and 2 Belgian pilgrims sharing the room. 3 double bunks. Outside is a gorgeous little sunny terrace where we can sit and relax. Good wifi & dinner for us at 7.
Monday, 14 July 2014
Day 51 Crozant
Day 51-Gargilesse to Crozant- 20km- July 14
I am being very bad mannered and writing this at the dinner table. A great day of walking up and down hills, slippery slopes, muddy flooded paths, long wet grass, sunny & overcast, a waterfall and lakes, rivers & bridges. I wish I had a euro for every dog that barks as we approach, I'd be a millionaire. Finished today with a climb up past the ruins of the Chateau Crozant where we collected the key and got a stamp. Great little gite at the top of the hill near the church.
I am being very bad mannered and writing this at the dinner table. A great day of walking up and down hills, slippery slopes, muddy flooded paths, long wet grass, sunny & overcast, a waterfall and lakes, rivers & bridges. I wish I had a euro for every dog that barks as we approach, I'd be a millionaire. Finished today with a climb up past the ruins of the Chateau Crozant where we collected the key and got a stamp. Great little gite at the top of the hill near the church.
Sunday, 13 July 2014
Day 50- Cluis to Gargilesse
Day 50- Sun 13/7- Cluis to Gargilesse-16kms
Guess what?? It's raining again. Who would have guessed it, Summer in France. Our path this morning takes us thru the village and down to the viaduct which we cross 499metres long with 20 magnificent high arches. No longer used for the railway now better known as a bungee jumping spot. At the other end of the viaduct, from which the views would be spectacular on a clear day, we take the narrow, slippery path with its rope handrail, down to the street below, following the Camino scallop shell signs. In the front yards of many houses as well as on street corners there are often well heads where water would be drawn from underground aquifers either by hand pumping or drawn by a bucket on a chain or rope.
Much of today is off road on grassy, rocky, muddy, wet, puddly, uneven, slippery tracks, between hedgerows, interspersed with the occasional bitumen road. We stop in Pommiers for a welcome coffee from the small shop, where the man tending the shop is having a birthday & his friends come to keep him company. It starts to rain again then stops. We keep on following the scallop shells through the hamlet of Foy, along wet forest paths to finally emerge on a bitumen road which soon descends very sharply into Gargilesse. Here we meet a group of motorcyclists out for their Sunday ride. We walk into Gargilesse in the rain. Groups of tourists shelter under a big tree. Everything is closed. No bars or restaurants open. We climb up past the church to the Tourism office (closed) in the Pigeonnaire and are able to shelter under the overhang of the sculpter's studio next door. JP calls our host for tonight, Renato, who picks us up to take us to his home. It is nice to be our of the cold and wet. We have a lazy afternoon as other guests arrive. Looks like there could be more than a dozen for dinner. There is a couple in the room next door, a family of 4 in the room opposite, his family of at least 5, plus any campers who may be staying. We have good wifi and at last my blog is up to date. Sorry I can't post any pictures but my iPhone doesn't find them for me. For pictures you will have to join me on Facebook.
Guess what?? It's raining again. Who would have guessed it, Summer in France. Our path this morning takes us thru the village and down to the viaduct which we cross 499metres long with 20 magnificent high arches. No longer used for the railway now better known as a bungee jumping spot. At the other end of the viaduct, from which the views would be spectacular on a clear day, we take the narrow, slippery path with its rope handrail, down to the street below, following the Camino scallop shell signs. In the front yards of many houses as well as on street corners there are often well heads where water would be drawn from underground aquifers either by hand pumping or drawn by a bucket on a chain or rope.
Much of today is off road on grassy, rocky, muddy, wet, puddly, uneven, slippery tracks, between hedgerows, interspersed with the occasional bitumen road. We stop in Pommiers for a welcome coffee from the small shop, where the man tending the shop is having a birthday & his friends come to keep him company. It starts to rain again then stops. We keep on following the scallop shells through the hamlet of Foy, along wet forest paths to finally emerge on a bitumen road which soon descends very sharply into Gargilesse. Here we meet a group of motorcyclists out for their Sunday ride. We walk into Gargilesse in the rain. Groups of tourists shelter under a big tree. Everything is closed. No bars or restaurants open. We climb up past the church to the Tourism office (closed) in the Pigeonnaire and are able to shelter under the overhang of the sculpter's studio next door. JP calls our host for tonight, Renato, who picks us up to take us to his home. It is nice to be our of the cold and wet. We have a lazy afternoon as other guests arrive. Looks like there could be more than a dozen for dinner. There is a couple in the room next door, a family of 4 in the room opposite, his family of at least 5, plus any campers who may be staying. We have good wifi and at last my blog is up to date. Sorry I can't post any pictures but my iPhone doesn't find them for me. For pictures you will have to join me on Facebook.
Day 48-49. France
Day 48- Le Chatelet to La Chatre - Fri 11/7- 31kms
JP & I set off before 8 - 2 pilgrims once more - after breakfast if yoghurt, toast, jam, vegemite & coffee. We make a sandwich to take with us, grainy bread with Camembert. The weather forecast gives us a 5% chance of rain, but after 6 days in a row of rain I am hoping and praying for some sunshine. It is supposed to be Summer!!! We enjoy our morning walking on quiet country lanes, away from traffic. We pass a flower pot man sitting high in the window if a barn at a very well kept farmyard. In Saint Jeanvrin, there is a pretty church, lots of potted colour, all very neat & tidy, even a stick figure pilgrim outside the Mairie. We make good time through the undulating countryside, arriving into Chateaumeillant around 10.15. Here we enjoy a coffee at the bar & take a 1/2 hour break. We climb a hill past a very large manor/farm house with stone walls. Here is a memorial to locals who died in Buchenwald. Down a wet grassy lane to Neret, another flower bedecked labour. We take the Chemin de St Jacques past stone houses. The wheat & canola in thd fields are grey and almost mouldy looking. Our lunch stop is at the Lavoir St Solange where we enjoy the comforts of a table max chairs. We pass more gem sunflowers with their faces turned away from us, an old iron cross, vistas of grain and pasture. More sunflowers but now we are on the right side for us to see the smiling faces, quiet tree lined country lanes, a little up & a little down. We take a break in Lacs to eat a banana, on the common where marquees have been erected for Mondays Bastille day celebrations. We go down to cross the 3 bridges before climbing again to the market square of La Chatre. We enjoy a cold drink and celebrate the no rain day. We retrace our steps to our accommodation which is just before the first of the 3 bridges on Rue de Marquis. Here Anne settles us into her pilgrim refuge guest quarters. She helps us make reservations for the weekend. We will have yo change our schedule as accommodation is quite difficult in some places.
Day 49-Sat 12/7- Le Chatre to Cluis - 25km
Healthy breakfast, then up the hill, back thru the town and head south west. It has been raining in the night so our boots are soon wet when we follow the grassy pathways between the hedgerows. At last it feels like we are actually on a Grand Randonnee (long distance walking path). There is mud & puddles in a lot of places but we manage to stay upright. The scenery is now hills & green pastures with only a few fields if rather grey, mouldy looking grain. As we walk past the paddocks the cows and sheep always look up and often come to the fence to greet us. We spy deer crossing the path ahead. Our first break is at Sarzay where we have our coffee looking at the chateau which originally had 38 round towers and. 3 drawbridges. Sadly only 5 round towers remain. One of the most visited National Monuments in France. We pass the ancient Abbaye of Varennes, now a chambre d'hote. Lunch at a bar in Neuvy-Saint-Sepulchre, next to the basilica. Across the bridge, around the lake, along quiet country paths and through farmyards. All is quiet and we hardly see another soul. The iron crosses are often at corners of the road. We descend to the bridge then climb steeply, past the ruined fortress of Cluis and the chapel to the church. It starts to rain as we get to the church. A quick trip to the epicerie for a key to the refuge and we can settle in for the night. Here we meet Suzette from Charenton again. There are beds for 4 pilgrims upstairs and a lounge/dining/kitchen downstairs we get some supplies and make a yummy potato omelette for dinner.
JP & I set off before 8 - 2 pilgrims once more - after breakfast if yoghurt, toast, jam, vegemite & coffee. We make a sandwich to take with us, grainy bread with Camembert. The weather forecast gives us a 5% chance of rain, but after 6 days in a row of rain I am hoping and praying for some sunshine. It is supposed to be Summer!!! We enjoy our morning walking on quiet country lanes, away from traffic. We pass a flower pot man sitting high in the window if a barn at a very well kept farmyard. In Saint Jeanvrin, there is a pretty church, lots of potted colour, all very neat & tidy, even a stick figure pilgrim outside the Mairie. We make good time through the undulating countryside, arriving into Chateaumeillant around 10.15. Here we enjoy a coffee at the bar & take a 1/2 hour break. We climb a hill past a very large manor/farm house with stone walls. Here is a memorial to locals who died in Buchenwald. Down a wet grassy lane to Neret, another flower bedecked labour. We take the Chemin de St Jacques past stone houses. The wheat & canola in thd fields are grey and almost mouldy looking. Our lunch stop is at the Lavoir St Solange where we enjoy the comforts of a table max chairs. We pass more gem sunflowers with their faces turned away from us, an old iron cross, vistas of grain and pasture. More sunflowers but now we are on the right side for us to see the smiling faces, quiet tree lined country lanes, a little up & a little down. We take a break in Lacs to eat a banana, on the common where marquees have been erected for Mondays Bastille day celebrations. We go down to cross the 3 bridges before climbing again to the market square of La Chatre. We enjoy a cold drink and celebrate the no rain day. We retrace our steps to our accommodation which is just before the first of the 3 bridges on Rue de Marquis. Here Anne settles us into her pilgrim refuge guest quarters. She helps us make reservations for the weekend. We will have yo change our schedule as accommodation is quite difficult in some places.
Day 49-Sat 12/7- Le Chatre to Cluis - 25km
Healthy breakfast, then up the hill, back thru the town and head south west. It has been raining in the night so our boots are soon wet when we follow the grassy pathways between the hedgerows. At last it feels like we are actually on a Grand Randonnee (long distance walking path). There is mud & puddles in a lot of places but we manage to stay upright. The scenery is now hills & green pastures with only a few fields if rather grey, mouldy looking grain. As we walk past the paddocks the cows and sheep always look up and often come to the fence to greet us. We spy deer crossing the path ahead. Our first break is at Sarzay where we have our coffee looking at the chateau which originally had 38 round towers and. 3 drawbridges. Sadly only 5 round towers remain. One of the most visited National Monuments in France. We pass the ancient Abbaye of Varennes, now a chambre d'hote. Lunch at a bar in Neuvy-Saint-Sepulchre, next to the basilica. Across the bridge, around the lake, along quiet country paths and through farmyards. All is quiet and we hardly see another soul. The iron crosses are often at corners of the road. We descend to the bridge then climb steeply, past the ruined fortress of Cluis and the chapel to the church. It starts to rain as we get to the church. A quick trip to the epicerie for a key to the refuge and we can settle in for the night. Here we meet Suzette from Charenton again. There are beds for 4 pilgrims upstairs and a lounge/dining/kitchen downstairs we get some supplies and make a yummy potato omelette for dinner.
Day 46-47
Day 46- Charenton to La Touratte (Arcomps)- 25kms
Rained all night. Left Charenton, Salome, JP & me, following the yellow/blue signs of the pilgrim way to Compostelle. After a short way we are again back at the Canal de Berry, after first squelching our way through muddy farm tracks. Mostly grassy paths which soon wet our boots. All is quiet apart from the dogs which, as we approach then pass by, yap, bark, growl and generally make a very loud noise. We are probably their only entertainment they get each day. All around are very black skies. Just before St Armand we cross the canal on the green bridge and arrive into this large town with its colourful floral hanging baskets. We enjoy lunch at the kebab in the central square. We head south to. Bouzais where we meet the German couple who are hospitaleros at the refuge here. We are following the scallop shell signs but know we will have to move off the route to get to where we are staying tonight. We again meet some rain which has been coming towards us all day from the south-west. We make the turn that takes us off the scallop shell route & up the hill into the village of Arcomps. Here we shelter from the rain for a while then continue on, down the hill, past fields of sunflowers then up again, towards the chateau. We walk past the chateau wall then turn left up the driveway to Le Grenier. We are made very welcome by Madame Lucy du Jeu and her grandson. After showering we get a lovely hot cup of tea. This building was converted from an old farm building some 50+ years ago into what is now a large and very comfortable home. Huge ground floor living space plus Lucy's quarters with generous guest accommodation upstairs. We enjoy a home cooked meal around the kitchen table with Lucy, her grandson & 2 granddaughters.
Day 47- Thur 10/7- la Touratte to Le Chatelet -2 kms walking
It has rained all night and at breakfast the wind us howling, the rain is falling & it's almost still dark outside. We decide to wait an hour and see what happens. There is no change and the decision is made to return to the refuge at Bouzais. Lucy drives us there, raining all the time. After hot chocolate & a talk with our German hospitaleros they drive us to le Chatelet where there are more options for accommodation. Salome is sick of the rain, as also are JP and I. After taking shelter in a bar in le Chatelet we head out into the rain. After only a km we call it quits for the day, knock on the door of a gite and go inside. We will have a rest day. My first since Maastricht. There is good wifi which gives me a chance to update the blog. First though we go back into the rain for a trip to the supermarket for supplies. We will cook our own lunch, dinner & breakfast. This requires more rain walking but only a km or 2. Salome makes the decision to return to Geneva tomorrow, which she quickly organises.
Rained all night. Left Charenton, Salome, JP & me, following the yellow/blue signs of the pilgrim way to Compostelle. After a short way we are again back at the Canal de Berry, after first squelching our way through muddy farm tracks. Mostly grassy paths which soon wet our boots. All is quiet apart from the dogs which, as we approach then pass by, yap, bark, growl and generally make a very loud noise. We are probably their only entertainment they get each day. All around are very black skies. Just before St Armand we cross the canal on the green bridge and arrive into this large town with its colourful floral hanging baskets. We enjoy lunch at the kebab in the central square. We head south to. Bouzais where we meet the German couple who are hospitaleros at the refuge here. We are following the scallop shell signs but know we will have to move off the route to get to where we are staying tonight. We again meet some rain which has been coming towards us all day from the south-west. We make the turn that takes us off the scallop shell route & up the hill into the village of Arcomps. Here we shelter from the rain for a while then continue on, down the hill, past fields of sunflowers then up again, towards the chateau. We walk past the chateau wall then turn left up the driveway to Le Grenier. We are made very welcome by Madame Lucy du Jeu and her grandson. After showering we get a lovely hot cup of tea. This building was converted from an old farm building some 50+ years ago into what is now a large and very comfortable home. Huge ground floor living space plus Lucy's quarters with generous guest accommodation upstairs. We enjoy a home cooked meal around the kitchen table with Lucy, her grandson & 2 granddaughters.
Day 47- Thur 10/7- la Touratte to Le Chatelet -2 kms walking
It has rained all night and at breakfast the wind us howling, the rain is falling & it's almost still dark outside. We decide to wait an hour and see what happens. There is no change and the decision is made to return to the refuge at Bouzais. Lucy drives us there, raining all the time. After hot chocolate & a talk with our German hospitaleros they drive us to le Chatelet where there are more options for accommodation. Salome is sick of the rain, as also are JP and I. After taking shelter in a bar in le Chatelet we head out into the rain. After only a km we call it quits for the day, knock on the door of a gite and go inside. We will have a rest day. My first since Maastricht. There is good wifi which gives me a chance to update the blog. First though we go back into the rain for a trip to the supermarket for supplies. We will cook our own lunch, dinner & breakfast. This requires more rain walking but only a km or 2. Salome makes the decision to return to Geneva tomorrow, which she quickly organises.
Day 44-45
Day 44-Mon 7/7-Grossouvre to Augy-sur-Aubois- 18+kms
We again set off in light rain, Salome, JP & me. It is cold this morning, which we had not expected. We buy pastries in the boulangerie at Grossouvre, where the church has a Spanish style bell tower. We take the wet, grassy path alongside the canal, slippery in places. We meet a farmer herding his cattle into a truck so we wait while they go past on the road & across a bridge over the canal. Our pavement weary feet are grateful for the respite from bitumen and asphalt. We stop for coffee in a bar, outside Sancours, alongside the canal which we have been following all day. Salome makes a phone call and finds out she has passed her barrister exams, which makes her very happy. We continue for the next 9kms along the canal du Berry, past the colonnade of grand old plane trees and fields with cattle & sheep. We cross a bridge, then up a small rise, as we leave the canal to come to the small village of Augy-sur-Aubois. Turn right at the 1664 cross, before entering the village, to reach the Pilgrim Refuge, Nos Repos. Here we are welcomed by 2 hospitaleros, one from Belgium & 1 from Holland. It us a lovely refuge with all necessities. The wifi only works outside, so although it has stopped raining it is not warm. JP & I go down to the village for dinner, a real rural Fench meal. Delicious.
Day 45- Augy to Charenton-du-Cher. 24kms
JP goes to the village for bread & cheese for our breakfast and lunch. We start off in sunshine, left then right, then left then right until we are back at the Canal du Berry. We follow this the whole day again. We pass many locks, crossing at some of them, sometimes in short grass, sometimes in long wet grass. Raining again. The lock houses are rather pretty & although the canal & it's locks seem to need repair, most of the houses are beautifully kept. We follow a red gravel path down a promenade before turning left then right into Rue Chateau de la Grave. At number 9 we find Madame Mativo in the manoir. The weather is still wet & rather depressing. Inside the manor house is rather dilapidated but we are all allocated a room each which is a definite luxury. After a quick trip to the bar we get time for a pre-dinner nap. Another pilgrim, Suzette from Corsica, is also here making us 4 pilgrims altogether. We enjoy our evening meal around the dining table with our hostess.
We again set off in light rain, Salome, JP & me. It is cold this morning, which we had not expected. We buy pastries in the boulangerie at Grossouvre, where the church has a Spanish style bell tower. We take the wet, grassy path alongside the canal, slippery in places. We meet a farmer herding his cattle into a truck so we wait while they go past on the road & across a bridge over the canal. Our pavement weary feet are grateful for the respite from bitumen and asphalt. We stop for coffee in a bar, outside Sancours, alongside the canal which we have been following all day. Salome makes a phone call and finds out she has passed her barrister exams, which makes her very happy. We continue for the next 9kms along the canal du Berry, past the colonnade of grand old plane trees and fields with cattle & sheep. We cross a bridge, then up a small rise, as we leave the canal to come to the small village of Augy-sur-Aubois. Turn right at the 1664 cross, before entering the village, to reach the Pilgrim Refuge, Nos Repos. Here we are welcomed by 2 hospitaleros, one from Belgium & 1 from Holland. It us a lovely refuge with all necessities. The wifi only works outside, so although it has stopped raining it is not warm. JP & I go down to the village for dinner, a real rural Fench meal. Delicious.
Day 45- Augy to Charenton-du-Cher. 24kms
JP goes to the village for bread & cheese for our breakfast and lunch. We start off in sunshine, left then right, then left then right until we are back at the Canal du Berry. We follow this the whole day again. We pass many locks, crossing at some of them, sometimes in short grass, sometimes in long wet grass. Raining again. The lock houses are rather pretty & although the canal & it's locks seem to need repair, most of the houses are beautifully kept. We follow a red gravel path down a promenade before turning left then right into Rue Chateau de la Grave. At number 9 we find Madame Mativo in the manoir. The weather is still wet & rather depressing. Inside the manor house is rather dilapidated but we are all allocated a room each which is a definite luxury. After a quick trip to the bar we get time for a pre-dinner nap. Another pilgrim, Suzette from Corsica, is also here making us 4 pilgrims altogether. We enjoy our evening meal around the dining table with our hostess.
Day 41-43
Day 41- Guipy to Premery-24kms Friday 4 July
We leave without breakfast but with rain gear on as it is raining lightly. Road walking all the way. We pass 4 donkeys, which stand close together for a picture. The landscape is changing and in many places I could be somewhere in Australia with rolling hills, cattle in the paddocks, pastures, wheat & canola. In St Reverian we hail a travelling epicerie to buy some food which we eat standing up in the doorway of a barn. Along the way the villages are all closed up, no shops, almost abandoned. In St Reverian we take the Roman road, which is very rocky, but away from traffic. In Moussy we pass the a abandoned Hotel de la Perdats with it's faded sign. We shelter from the rain in the shed of a gite before continuing, thunder rolling all around. We make it into Premery to our accommodation at "des Routiers" at 1.30, have our lunch & a long cold panache.
Day 42-Premery to Nevers- 31kms
The three of us start off together, Jean-Pierre, Hiltrud & me aiming for Guerigny, 17kms. It is raining when we leave, which continues for the first hour. The road walking is getting to us, with the camber sloping. Sharply away on our left side. I lengthen that walking pole to compensate. Lovely scenery with undulating hills, no serious ups or downs. We cross the Clamecy to Nevers railway line several times. At each crossing there is the small railway house from the days when the crossings were manually operated. We follow the blue& yellow scallop shell signs to find our way. We pass a chateau behind its high stone walls, past white cows, fields of green corn, golden wheat & stubble. We walk thru silent forests, black clouds overhead. As we come into Guerigny we pass what looks like a former brick factory. Many tall chimneys, long buildings with tiled roof, all in apparent disrepair. In Guerigny we have a delicious crepe for lunch and JP & I decide to walk on. It is no longer raining and with only 14 kms to go to Nevers we set off. Hiltrud will stay in Guerigny as she was only going to walk as far as Nevers before returning home and she us not yet ready to finish. After a short stop along the way we walk into Nevers around 4pm. Here I can finally replace my phone charger which died a few days ago. We wind our way thru the narrow streets, past the ugly war memorial, across the park and find St Bernadettes, where we will stay the night in the pilgrim accommodation, way down the back corner. Here we meet up with Salome, a Swiss pilgrim. She shares our room & we eat our evening meal together in the communal dining room.
Day 43-Nevers to Grossouvre- 26kms
After breakfast we visit the chapel of St Bernadette where her body lies intact in a glass case. It has lain here since 1925. She was tiny. On our way our of town we visit the cathedral which had very modern stain glass windows but a very lovely old clock with the sun for a face. It is raining as we leave and continues, raining, raining. We take shelter for a short while in a farm shed. In Gimouille we stop for coffee before crossing the canal again. At Pont Canal we cross the Seine, on a footbridge alongside the canal Laterale a la Loire. Here the fall at the lock would be at least 5metres. In Apremont-sur-Allier, one of the beaux villages de France, we enjoy lunch in sunshine alongside the river. Soon after leaving Apremont we take the D76, which is also the GR654, that leads us through forests on either side (private), for km after km, straight as a narrow. All is silent, a breeze springs up, we quickly don our wet weather gear and take shelter under some large oaks for 5 minutes while the thunderstorm passes over. We set off again when the rain eases. Suddenly the thunder cracks right over head, lightning flashes & the storm descends. Lashings of rain, we are pelted with hailstones to size if ball bearings and in moments we are drenched through, feet squelching in our boots. This continues for 40 minutes. We just keep on walking. No point in doing anything else. We laugh and laugh. It is ridiculously funny, 3 drowned rats. We emerge from the forests as the rain eases and we are soon at Chateau Grossouvre, today's destination. We are staying in the annexe. We are soon warm with all our stuff drying out. Later our host Jacques Chevaux shows us through the chateau which he is restoring to make into a museum for his collection of old military uniforms, swords & paraphernalia. He has been at it for 16 years so far. & hopes to have the ground floor open in 2 years time. A huge task.
We leave without breakfast but with rain gear on as it is raining lightly. Road walking all the way. We pass 4 donkeys, which stand close together for a picture. The landscape is changing and in many places I could be somewhere in Australia with rolling hills, cattle in the paddocks, pastures, wheat & canola. In St Reverian we hail a travelling epicerie to buy some food which we eat standing up in the doorway of a barn. Along the way the villages are all closed up, no shops, almost abandoned. In St Reverian we take the Roman road, which is very rocky, but away from traffic. In Moussy we pass the a abandoned Hotel de la Perdats with it's faded sign. We shelter from the rain in the shed of a gite before continuing, thunder rolling all around. We make it into Premery to our accommodation at "des Routiers" at 1.30, have our lunch & a long cold panache.
Day 42-Premery to Nevers- 31kms
The three of us start off together, Jean-Pierre, Hiltrud & me aiming for Guerigny, 17kms. It is raining when we leave, which continues for the first hour. The road walking is getting to us, with the camber sloping. Sharply away on our left side. I lengthen that walking pole to compensate. Lovely scenery with undulating hills, no serious ups or downs. We cross the Clamecy to Nevers railway line several times. At each crossing there is the small railway house from the days when the crossings were manually operated. We follow the blue& yellow scallop shell signs to find our way. We pass a chateau behind its high stone walls, past white cows, fields of green corn, golden wheat & stubble. We walk thru silent forests, black clouds overhead. As we come into Guerigny we pass what looks like a former brick factory. Many tall chimneys, long buildings with tiled roof, all in apparent disrepair. In Guerigny we have a delicious crepe for lunch and JP & I decide to walk on. It is no longer raining and with only 14 kms to go to Nevers we set off. Hiltrud will stay in Guerigny as she was only going to walk as far as Nevers before returning home and she us not yet ready to finish. After a short stop along the way we walk into Nevers around 4pm. Here I can finally replace my phone charger which died a few days ago. We wind our way thru the narrow streets, past the ugly war memorial, across the park and find St Bernadettes, where we will stay the night in the pilgrim accommodation, way down the back corner. Here we meet up with Salome, a Swiss pilgrim. She shares our room & we eat our evening meal together in the communal dining room.
Day 43-Nevers to Grossouvre- 26kms
After breakfast we visit the chapel of St Bernadette where her body lies intact in a glass case. It has lain here since 1925. She was tiny. On our way our of town we visit the cathedral which had very modern stain glass windows but a very lovely old clock with the sun for a face. It is raining as we leave and continues, raining, raining. We take shelter for a short while in a farm shed. In Gimouille we stop for coffee before crossing the canal again. At Pont Canal we cross the Seine, on a footbridge alongside the canal Laterale a la Loire. Here the fall at the lock would be at least 5metres. In Apremont-sur-Allier, one of the beaux villages de France, we enjoy lunch in sunshine alongside the river. Soon after leaving Apremont we take the D76, which is also the GR654, that leads us through forests on either side (private), for km after km, straight as a narrow. All is silent, a breeze springs up, we quickly don our wet weather gear and take shelter under some large oaks for 5 minutes while the thunderstorm passes over. We set off again when the rain eases. Suddenly the thunder cracks right over head, lightning flashes & the storm descends. Lashings of rain, we are pelted with hailstones to size if ball bearings and in moments we are drenched through, feet squelching in our boots. This continues for 40 minutes. We just keep on walking. No point in doing anything else. We laugh and laugh. It is ridiculously funny, 3 drowned rats. We emerge from the forests as the rain eases and we are soon at Chateau Grossouvre, today's destination. We are staying in the annexe. We are soon warm with all our stuff drying out. Later our host Jacques Chevaux shows us through the chateau which he is restoring to make into a museum for his collection of old military uniforms, swords & paraphernalia. He has been at it for 16 years so far. & hopes to have the ground floor open in 2 years time. A huge task.
Day 35-37
Day 35-Ervy-le-Chatel to Vezannes- 23kms
JP goes to the bakery for fresh croissants & bread for our breakfast & lunch. We make our own coffee & I eat the rest of my strawberries I bought at the market yesterday. We start in a light misty sprinkle but not enough to need the rain jacket. More grain fields then while we stop for a break a heavy shower passes thru. We are under shelter but put on our rain gear when we get going again. Down to the canal Bourgogne which we follow for around 3 kms. Boats on the canal for the first time. This canal is 242km long with 189 locks. We see canola being harvested, off with the heads and straight into the truck, not like in WA where it is cut then lies on the ground to finish off. Up thru the village of Roffey, past the church of St Jacob at Bernouil, then a gentle slope down to the village of Vezannes. Here we enjoy a complimentary bottle of Chablis. We are now in the Chablis appellation area. We chose not to have an evening meal here at €25 each and instead eat what we brought with us. There are other non-pilgrim guests here in a big old farmhouse.
Day 36- Vezannes via Chablis to St-Cyr-les-Colons. 25km
Weather is overcast & threatening rain as we set off. Up the hill and over the TGV train line. Some markings are now on a small square of concrete in the ground and are not always easy to find. Jo is good at finding the way. Fields of maize, lucerne, canola, wheat, barley & oats. Sometimes we follow the GR 654 white on red markings. Gradually upwards, upwards along very stoney farm paths. We come to the vineyards of the Chablis area. The ground in which the vines grow is so stoney you wonder how it can be worked. We gradually descend into Chablis and arrive just as the rain starts. It quickly passes so. We can enjoy the market & get some supplies. While we have our lunch there is another downpour but we are warm & dry. Here when we ask for l'eau du Maison (tap water) we meet a sense of humour and are brought l'eau du Chablis. We pass thru the village of Courgis, along the stoney road, down thru the vineyards then a very steep climb to Prehy where we feast on plump ripe rain washed cherries from an overhanging tree. We descend share again, clay sticking to our boots, then steep up againto St-Cyr-les-Colons. We stay in The municipal gite which has great facilities assisted by a bottle of Chablis.
Day 37-St-Cyr to Arcy-sur-Cure. 22km
Gently upwards as we leave the village behind us. Thru woods & across fields then down into Cravant thru the Porte d'Arbaalt, between the watchtowers of the old ramparts. Here we join an English couple at a bar for coffee. We also buy food for the way, check out the church which is covered in scaffolding and enjoy the beautifully restored half timbered Vakwerkhuizen building. We pass the memorial to the 4500 French & Scottish soldiers who died here on 31July 1423. We see our first sunflowers in bloom, protected by an electric fence which gives me a zap when I touch it with my walking pole. Down into Accolay, past the large ceramic vase on the corner. Here we have lunch by the river Cure. We cross the bridge, thru the village and follow a path through shady oak & beech forests, alongside but above the river Cure. A couple of donkey's nod as we walk by. In Arcy-sur-Cure we stay in a house just metres from the church, very old. Up 2 flights if very steep, narrow, winding stairs like climbing through a cupboard door, to our spacious, airy room in the attic. Mind your head on the beams.
JP goes to the bakery for fresh croissants & bread for our breakfast & lunch. We make our own coffee & I eat the rest of my strawberries I bought at the market yesterday. We start in a light misty sprinkle but not enough to need the rain jacket. More grain fields then while we stop for a break a heavy shower passes thru. We are under shelter but put on our rain gear when we get going again. Down to the canal Bourgogne which we follow for around 3 kms. Boats on the canal for the first time. This canal is 242km long with 189 locks. We see canola being harvested, off with the heads and straight into the truck, not like in WA where it is cut then lies on the ground to finish off. Up thru the village of Roffey, past the church of St Jacob at Bernouil, then a gentle slope down to the village of Vezannes. Here we enjoy a complimentary bottle of Chablis. We are now in the Chablis appellation area. We chose not to have an evening meal here at €25 each and instead eat what we brought with us. There are other non-pilgrim guests here in a big old farmhouse.
Day 36- Vezannes via Chablis to St-Cyr-les-Colons. 25km
Weather is overcast & threatening rain as we set off. Up the hill and over the TGV train line. Some markings are now on a small square of concrete in the ground and are not always easy to find. Jo is good at finding the way. Fields of maize, lucerne, canola, wheat, barley & oats. Sometimes we follow the GR 654 white on red markings. Gradually upwards, upwards along very stoney farm paths. We come to the vineyards of the Chablis area. The ground in which the vines grow is so stoney you wonder how it can be worked. We gradually descend into Chablis and arrive just as the rain starts. It quickly passes so. We can enjoy the market & get some supplies. While we have our lunch there is another downpour but we are warm & dry. Here when we ask for l'eau du Maison (tap water) we meet a sense of humour and are brought l'eau du Chablis. We pass thru the village of Courgis, along the stoney road, down thru the vineyards then a very steep climb to Prehy where we feast on plump ripe rain washed cherries from an overhanging tree. We descend share again, clay sticking to our boots, then steep up againto St-Cyr-les-Colons. We stay in The municipal gite which has great facilities assisted by a bottle of Chablis.
Day 37-St-Cyr to Arcy-sur-Cure. 22km
Gently upwards as we leave the village behind us. Thru woods & across fields then down into Cravant thru the Porte d'Arbaalt, between the watchtowers of the old ramparts. Here we join an English couple at a bar for coffee. We also buy food for the way, check out the church which is covered in scaffolding and enjoy the beautifully restored half timbered Vakwerkhuizen building. We pass the memorial to the 4500 French & Scottish soldiers who died here on 31July 1423. We see our first sunflowers in bloom, protected by an electric fence which gives me a zap when I touch it with my walking pole. Down into Accolay, past the large ceramic vase on the corner. Here we have lunch by the river Cure. We cross the bridge, thru the village and follow a path through shady oak & beech forests, alongside but above the river Cure. A couple of donkey's nod as we walk by. In Arcy-sur-Cure we stay in a house just metres from the church, very old. Up 2 flights if very steep, narrow, winding stairs like climbing through a cupboard door, to our spacious, airy room in the attic. Mind your head on the beams.
Thursday, 10 July 2014
Day 38-40
Day 38- Arcy-sur-Cure to Vezelay - Tues July 1- 22 kms
Another beautiful day for walking. Leaving Arcy we pass the chateau & ruins if earlier buildings, perhaps a wall and it's watchtowers. Through forests where we climb steadily, minding every step as we watch for rocks & tree roots on the path. Shady paths with dappled sunlight, past a worn cross to emerge into a sunny meadow, downwards to Saint More- hollyhocks & sweet peas. Stone buildings with so much character and warmth but so many in a state of disrepair. We follow the Cure river between the water & the walls of limestone. We eat our cherries in La Jarrie, and buy nectarines from a travelling epicerie. We also meet the travelling baker on our way out of town and get some bread fir lunch. After a steep climb we can see Vezelay away in the distance. Then a very steep and awkward down hill rocky slope to a meadow of wild grasses. Just outside the village of Asquins we pause for a while at the red wooden cross under the linden tree before going on past the white wooden cross towards our mountain top destination. Vezelay draws closer. Upwards, upwards and up, so very steep 'til finally we come out on the square in front of the basilica of Vezelay. It is so very beautiful for its simplicity and lack of adornment. We stay at St Madeleine pilgrim accommodation where we again meet up with Siets. Here we meet Hiltrud a German lass who joins us for Jozef's last dinner. He will return home tomorrow & we will miss him.
Day 39- Vezelay to le Chemin-25km
I go to the basilica for the beginning of the 7am service but leave after 15 minutes. After breakfast we farewell Jozef on his bus then head off down the hill to Dt Peter sous Vezelay. Vezelay is one of the major starting points for pilgrims walking from France but we see only a few, most if whom started elsewhere. In Bazoches we buy a cold drink and later discover that the German guide book describes the village as not welcoming pilgrims. We later discover a gite here even refused to accept a black lady who had a reservation, and this in the last 3 months. Some of the way today is along shady paths but most is in the sun on bitumen, with steep ups and downs. We arrive into le Chemin where we are staying with people who I have stayed with previously in St Jean Pied de Port, Huberta & Arno at L'Esprit du Chemin. They have sold their refuge in St Jean and opened a new one here. Just fabulous, even though the masons are still working. A medieval building with walled gardens. Beautiful. Our room ovelooks the village of Anthien.
Day 40- Le Chemin to Guipy- 27 kms
Down the hill to Anthien, warm & sunny. Too much bitumen roads. Chitry-les-Mines where many children are enjoying an end of school picnic under the shade of the giant chestnut trees. Sun shine all day with little shade. More upwards paths to Le Bouquin, then down to Pazy before climbing again past a farm with stone walls and a round tower with scenic views over surrounding pasture. Cows white & brown come to greet us as we pass by. 80+ year old Phillippe Oger hosts us tonight. He cooks a delicious meal which we eat under the linden tree with heavy silver cutlery & crystal glasses for the wine. In the garden are many pots if brightly coloured geraniums but the house is in need of some care and repair as well as a thorough going over. But, we enjoy a pleasant evening and a friendly chat.
Another beautiful day for walking. Leaving Arcy we pass the chateau & ruins if earlier buildings, perhaps a wall and it's watchtowers. Through forests where we climb steadily, minding every step as we watch for rocks & tree roots on the path. Shady paths with dappled sunlight, past a worn cross to emerge into a sunny meadow, downwards to Saint More- hollyhocks & sweet peas. Stone buildings with so much character and warmth but so many in a state of disrepair. We follow the Cure river between the water & the walls of limestone. We eat our cherries in La Jarrie, and buy nectarines from a travelling epicerie. We also meet the travelling baker on our way out of town and get some bread fir lunch. After a steep climb we can see Vezelay away in the distance. Then a very steep and awkward down hill rocky slope to a meadow of wild grasses. Just outside the village of Asquins we pause for a while at the red wooden cross under the linden tree before going on past the white wooden cross towards our mountain top destination. Vezelay draws closer. Upwards, upwards and up, so very steep 'til finally we come out on the square in front of the basilica of Vezelay. It is so very beautiful for its simplicity and lack of adornment. We stay at St Madeleine pilgrim accommodation where we again meet up with Siets. Here we meet Hiltrud a German lass who joins us for Jozef's last dinner. He will return home tomorrow & we will miss him.
Day 39- Vezelay to le Chemin-25km
I go to the basilica for the beginning of the 7am service but leave after 15 minutes. After breakfast we farewell Jozef on his bus then head off down the hill to Dt Peter sous Vezelay. Vezelay is one of the major starting points for pilgrims walking from France but we see only a few, most if whom started elsewhere. In Bazoches we buy a cold drink and later discover that the German guide book describes the village as not welcoming pilgrims. We later discover a gite here even refused to accept a black lady who had a reservation, and this in the last 3 months. Some of the way today is along shady paths but most is in the sun on bitumen, with steep ups and downs. We arrive into le Chemin where we are staying with people who I have stayed with previously in St Jean Pied de Port, Huberta & Arno at L'Esprit du Chemin. They have sold their refuge in St Jean and opened a new one here. Just fabulous, even though the masons are still working. A medieval building with walled gardens. Beautiful. Our room ovelooks the village of Anthien.
Day 40- Le Chemin to Guipy- 27 kms
Down the hill to Anthien, warm & sunny. Too much bitumen roads. Chitry-les-Mines where many children are enjoying an end of school picnic under the shade of the giant chestnut trees. Sun shine all day with little shade. More upwards paths to Le Bouquin, then down to Pazy before climbing again past a farm with stone walls and a round tower with scenic views over surrounding pasture. Cows white & brown come to greet us as we pass by. 80+ year old Phillippe Oger hosts us tonight. He cooks a delicious meal which we eat under the linden tree with heavy silver cutlery & crystal glasses for the wine. In the garden are many pots if brightly coloured geraniums but the house is in need of some care and repair as well as a thorough going over. But, we enjoy a pleasant evening and a friendly chat.
Day 32-34
Day 32-Savieres to Troyes- 12kms
At breakfast I bring our the Vegemite to have with my toast. We head back to the canal which we continue to follow, straight, flat, grassy or bitumen, depending on which side we choose. At the locks there are little houses which would have been for the lock master in the days when the canal was in use. On the ground we walk thru fluffy bundles of kapok, fallen from the trees above. After 12+km the path along the canal ends at Barbery-St-Sulpice. Here we are met by Jean-Pierre our dinner companion from last night. He drives the 3 of us to Troyes, first to check in to Maison Notre Dame to leave our back packs, then a personal guided tour. The cathedral, where because of the unstable ground there is only one tower, and inside the vaulted apses are slightly askew. We vist the Eglise of Saint Madelaine with its intricate gothic over altar gallery, masterpiece of the master mason of Troyes, Jehan Gailde. We are driven past other interesting places like Hotel-dieu -le-Comte with its gold embellished gateway, and the half timber buildings- distinctive in the Troyes style. We farewell our generous and kind friend who leaves us with a tear in his eye. The 3 pilgrims enjoy lunch in a courtyard off the Rouelle les Chats. Delicious. Back at our accommodation we meet up with Siets the Dutch Kiwi again.
Day 33-Thur 26/6- Troyes to Foret-Chenu- 29km
Today there are 4 pilgrims, including Siets. We first take the bus outside to city and start walking from La-Rivière-de-Corps. Across fields, through villages with no shops. We have started without breakfast for the first time. In Laines-aux-Bois a lovely lady makes us coffee and gives us fresh croissants from the bakery she visits while we wait for her to go out then come back to us. Such beautiful generosity from an angel. We stop for lunch at the Fontaine de Montaigu, where we also fill our water bottles. Upwards thru the woods on a carpet of oak & beech leaves. More grain fields, huge expanses of golden wheat & barley as far as the eye can see. We make good time climbing & descending through the warm sunny day. Mainly on farm tracks. At 2 Grande Rue we leave Siets who goes on. We stay in a small garden house up the back of the property in the vegetable garden. I will sleep in the kitchen on a fold out bed.
Day 34-Foret-Chenu to Ervy-le-Chatel. 15km
Up the hill, through the woods, brilliant sunshine, hectares of golden grain waiting for the harvester. More fields of grain with canola more than a metre high, across parched pathways with huge cracks then into the cool forest where the road is deeply rutted with puddles, frogs swimming & green slimy water. We have to watch every step. In Ervy-le-Chatel it is market day & we are met at the roundabout by the warden of the refuge. There are 2 rooms, each sleeping 2 pilgrims so I am on my own in the one which also has a small dining area. We hang our washing in the sun in the street then take a walk around the town, past St Nicholaaspoort(1450), St Peters church(1433) damaged in the 100year war but later rebuilt, and back to the round Korenbeur(corn exchange) in the centre of town.
At breakfast I bring our the Vegemite to have with my toast. We head back to the canal which we continue to follow, straight, flat, grassy or bitumen, depending on which side we choose. At the locks there are little houses which would have been for the lock master in the days when the canal was in use. On the ground we walk thru fluffy bundles of kapok, fallen from the trees above. After 12+km the path along the canal ends at Barbery-St-Sulpice. Here we are met by Jean-Pierre our dinner companion from last night. He drives the 3 of us to Troyes, first to check in to Maison Notre Dame to leave our back packs, then a personal guided tour. The cathedral, where because of the unstable ground there is only one tower, and inside the vaulted apses are slightly askew. We vist the Eglise of Saint Madelaine with its intricate gothic over altar gallery, masterpiece of the master mason of Troyes, Jehan Gailde. We are driven past other interesting places like Hotel-dieu -le-Comte with its gold embellished gateway, and the half timber buildings- distinctive in the Troyes style. We farewell our generous and kind friend who leaves us with a tear in his eye. The 3 pilgrims enjoy lunch in a courtyard off the Rouelle les Chats. Delicious. Back at our accommodation we meet up with Siets the Dutch Kiwi again.
Day 33-Thur 26/6- Troyes to Foret-Chenu- 29km
Today there are 4 pilgrims, including Siets. We first take the bus outside to city and start walking from La-Rivière-de-Corps. Across fields, through villages with no shops. We have started without breakfast for the first time. In Laines-aux-Bois a lovely lady makes us coffee and gives us fresh croissants from the bakery she visits while we wait for her to go out then come back to us. Such beautiful generosity from an angel. We stop for lunch at the Fontaine de Montaigu, where we also fill our water bottles. Upwards thru the woods on a carpet of oak & beech leaves. More grain fields, huge expanses of golden wheat & barley as far as the eye can see. We make good time climbing & descending through the warm sunny day. Mainly on farm tracks. At 2 Grande Rue we leave Siets who goes on. We stay in a small garden house up the back of the property in the vegetable garden. I will sleep in the kitchen on a fold out bed.
Day 34-Foret-Chenu to Ervy-le-Chatel. 15km
Up the hill, through the woods, brilliant sunshine, hectares of golden grain waiting for the harvester. More fields of grain with canola more than a metre high, across parched pathways with huge cracks then into the cool forest where the road is deeply rutted with puddles, frogs swimming & green slimy water. We have to watch every step. In Ervy-le-Chatel it is market day & we are met at the roundabout by the warden of the refuge. There are 2 rooms, each sleeping 2 pilgrims so I am on my own in the one which also has a small dining area. We hang our washing in the sun in the street then take a walk around the town, past St Nicholaaspoort(1450), St Peters church(1433) damaged in the 100year war but later rebuilt, and back to the round Korenbeur(corn exchange) in the centre of town.
Day 29-31
Day 29-Sun 22/6- Baye to Sezanne 17km
Our host drives us to Baye to start our walking at the Abbey there. Along the D951, up and down until St Six where we get a long uphill haul along the tree lined road offering shade and a slight breeze. Along the road are km markers -Voi de la Liberte 1944- We wonder whether this was the road the allies came when liberating France after the war. The small villages we pass thru offer no shops of any kind. We have been told that in this area there are 25 villages with only 5 bakeries to service them. We pass a chateau with its grand wrought iron gates, then a couple of large walled farmhouses, through fields, along a forest track, thru green & shady woods before emerging into a vineyard. We enter Sezanne as the clock strikes 12. After getting supplies at the marche we check in to an aged care facility where we are staying the night. Smiling nuns in grey habits welcome us. Lunch is immediately offered. Here we will also have dinner & breakfast. A most delightful place. Here also we meet 75yo Jozef from Belgium who is to become our new travelling companion.
Day 30-Sezanne to Anglure- 23km
After 4 we reach the village if Vindey with its "Put"- the stone shaped bottle - which marks the border between Brie-Champenoise and Champagne Crayeuse. Through grain fields, we feast off cherrys overhanging the path, much of which is alongside the disused railway line. We pass a grain silo busy with trucks bringing in the harvest. The horse flies are biting again. Harvesters are busy heading the wheat. Tractors pull large trailers filled with grain on their way to the silos. Arriving in Anglure there is a complex of massive silos, very busy with trucks & tractors rumbling in with their loads of grain. Here JP & I are at no 5 Rue de Pont & Jozef is at the hotel. A shorter day, grassy unpaved pathways. In the village there is the remains of a large water mill from medieval times.
Day 31-Tue 24/6-Anglure to Savierres 26km
Another sunny day. Across the bridge through the fields. We chat with a man tending his vegetable garden. We come to the canal de la Haute Seine. Serene white swans gliding in the waterlilies. Little black water birds dancing across the lily pads like they are running on water. In Mery-sur-Seine, Joan of Arc stands watch on top of the tower, while at street level there is a statue if Valmy Jemmapes- waving his rifle in one hand over his head (1702). We have lunch here & Jo catches us up so now we can walk together again. We follow the canal, crossing occasionally from side to side for shade and grassy paths, past locks (ecluses) and finally turn right to go into Savieres. Once there we have to walk am extra 1.1km to our gite. Mme Noble makes a dinner party of our stay and we meet her friends, making 7 altogether. Another Jean-Pierre who offers to show us his city of Troyes tomorrow and also to drill a hole in a scallop shell for JP who broke his today. We even get clafoutis cerises for dessert. Yum.
Our host drives us to Baye to start our walking at the Abbey there. Along the D951, up and down until St Six where we get a long uphill haul along the tree lined road offering shade and a slight breeze. Along the road are km markers -Voi de la Liberte 1944- We wonder whether this was the road the allies came when liberating France after the war. The small villages we pass thru offer no shops of any kind. We have been told that in this area there are 25 villages with only 5 bakeries to service them. We pass a chateau with its grand wrought iron gates, then a couple of large walled farmhouses, through fields, along a forest track, thru green & shady woods before emerging into a vineyard. We enter Sezanne as the clock strikes 12. After getting supplies at the marche we check in to an aged care facility where we are staying the night. Smiling nuns in grey habits welcome us. Lunch is immediately offered. Here we will also have dinner & breakfast. A most delightful place. Here also we meet 75yo Jozef from Belgium who is to become our new travelling companion.
Day 30-Sezanne to Anglure- 23km
After 4 we reach the village if Vindey with its "Put"- the stone shaped bottle - which marks the border between Brie-Champenoise and Champagne Crayeuse. Through grain fields, we feast off cherrys overhanging the path, much of which is alongside the disused railway line. We pass a grain silo busy with trucks bringing in the harvest. The horse flies are biting again. Harvesters are busy heading the wheat. Tractors pull large trailers filled with grain on their way to the silos. Arriving in Anglure there is a complex of massive silos, very busy with trucks & tractors rumbling in with their loads of grain. Here JP & I are at no 5 Rue de Pont & Jozef is at the hotel. A shorter day, grassy unpaved pathways. In the village there is the remains of a large water mill from medieval times.
Day 31-Tue 24/6-Anglure to Savierres 26km
Another sunny day. Across the bridge through the fields. We chat with a man tending his vegetable garden. We come to the canal de la Haute Seine. Serene white swans gliding in the waterlilies. Little black water birds dancing across the lily pads like they are running on water. In Mery-sur-Seine, Joan of Arc stands watch on top of the tower, while at street level there is a statue if Valmy Jemmapes- waving his rifle in one hand over his head (1702). We have lunch here & Jo catches us up so now we can walk together again. We follow the canal, crossing occasionally from side to side for shade and grassy paths, past locks (ecluses) and finally turn right to go into Savieres. Once there we have to walk am extra 1.1km to our gite. Mme Noble makes a dinner party of our stay and we meet her friends, making 7 altogether. Another Jean-Pierre who offers to show us his city of Troyes tomorrow and also to drill a hole in a scallop shell for JP who broke his today. We even get clafoutis cerises for dessert. Yum.
Day 26-28
Day 26- Thursday 19/6-Bazancourt to Reims-18kms
We have breakfast then head to the local bar for our early morning caffeine fix. We trek out of town along farm roads, through grain fields. The terrain is changing. Now the soil is chalky white clay/limestone, very fine dust like talcum powder. We arrive into Reims and the grand cathedral where a Canadian lady takes our group photo. We do a quick skip thru the cathedral where security is grumpy & the staff at the shop need to learn about customer relations. On one portal of the cathedral is an angel with open wings, a smile on her face & a twinkle in her eye. Here, in the afternoon a Friends of St Jacques group are very helpful & friendly. They book our accommodation at the monastery St Sixte. We also meet a Dutch Kiwi pilgrim Siets, who is having a rest day. Max buys his train ticket for tomorrow when he will return to Amsterdam. Later in the evening I am cleaning my boots at the window -we are on the 3rd floor- when one boot flies out the window. Thud, onto the roof 2 floors below. It is 8.30pm & no staff around. It will have to wait until the morning.
Day 27-Reims to Mardeuil 39km
First things first. Retrieve the boot. The man from security is most helpful. He gets a key for the room immediately below ours, on the first floor and also a large broom. Max takes his long walking stick. Together they retrieve my boot. Hooray!! Jean-Pierre & I set off, across the candles then follow the canal. We miss a turn. By the time we realise our mistake we have gone 2.5kms. Only way is to backtrack. Approaching the village if Trois-Puits we see our first champagne grape vines. The soil is very fine, white & chalky. We top up our water bottles at the public wash house (lavoire) in Rilly-la-Montagne. Most villages have a lavoire and we wonder how long since they were last used as many are not old buildings. At Bellevue near the Royal Champagne restaurant there is a spectacular view over Epernay & the surrounding valley. We have climbed some steep tracks on unmarked paths through forests to get here. A long steep downward road before again climbing to the hilltop village of Hautevillers, where Dom Perignon's tomb is in the church. Very steep descent on very rough tracks between the vines to Cumieres. Then across the narrow stone bridge with a queue of traffic in both directions and into Mardeuil at 5.30pm. At the Mairie(town hall) we are met by the Mayor's assistant who welcomes us with a big smile, stamp & keys to the refuge in one hand & a bottle of champagne in the other. Campaspe could learn something here perhaps??? Our refuge for the night is also the building used for preschool & after school care. Some children are still here until 6pm. We are to to help ourselves to the well stocked fridge, with soup, salads, vegetables, meat, milk, cheese, orange juice etc. Bread is also provided. Everything we need & more. The mayor's assistant also makes our reservation for tomorrow night. The Mayor himself calls in to have a chat & even goes out in his car to look for an overdue pilgrim. Service with a smile.
Day 28-Mardeuil to Champaubert via Montmort. 24.2km
Our trail starts with a climb up the white chalk hills, thru vineyards, steep, up. All is quiet apart from occasional agricultural machinery. The vines are being trimmed. Delightful views across the valleys, small champagne villages, row upon row of grape vines & a clear blue sky. We have a break in Moussy then up past the Eglise Charot, up past the lookout point, through the woods to Morangis where we enjoy our lunch under the shady branches of an ancient walnut tree. Our path later becomes more overgrown with thigh high grass. We arrive in Montmort-Lucy, past the beautiful chateau, just before 3pm. We sit at a bar near the town hall for a cold drink & call our host contact for tonight. She picks us up in her car
We have breakfast then head to the local bar for our early morning caffeine fix. We trek out of town along farm roads, through grain fields. The terrain is changing. Now the soil is chalky white clay/limestone, very fine dust like talcum powder. We arrive into Reims and the grand cathedral where a Canadian lady takes our group photo. We do a quick skip thru the cathedral where security is grumpy & the staff at the shop need to learn about customer relations. On one portal of the cathedral is an angel with open wings, a smile on her face & a twinkle in her eye. Here, in the afternoon a Friends of St Jacques group are very helpful & friendly. They book our accommodation at the monastery St Sixte. We also meet a Dutch Kiwi pilgrim Siets, who is having a rest day. Max buys his train ticket for tomorrow when he will return to Amsterdam. Later in the evening I am cleaning my boots at the window -we are on the 3rd floor- when one boot flies out the window. Thud, onto the roof 2 floors below. It is 8.30pm & no staff around. It will have to wait until the morning.
Day 27-Reims to Mardeuil 39km
First things first. Retrieve the boot. The man from security is most helpful. He gets a key for the room immediately below ours, on the first floor and also a large broom. Max takes his long walking stick. Together they retrieve my boot. Hooray!! Jean-Pierre & I set off, across the candles then follow the canal. We miss a turn. By the time we realise our mistake we have gone 2.5kms. Only way is to backtrack. Approaching the village if Trois-Puits we see our first champagne grape vines. The soil is very fine, white & chalky. We top up our water bottles at the public wash house (lavoire) in Rilly-la-Montagne. Most villages have a lavoire and we wonder how long since they were last used as many are not old buildings. At Bellevue near the Royal Champagne restaurant there is a spectacular view over Epernay & the surrounding valley. We have climbed some steep tracks on unmarked paths through forests to get here. A long steep downward road before again climbing to the hilltop village of Hautevillers, where Dom Perignon's tomb is in the church. Very steep descent on very rough tracks between the vines to Cumieres. Then across the narrow stone bridge with a queue of traffic in both directions and into Mardeuil at 5.30pm. At the Mairie(town hall) we are met by the Mayor's assistant who welcomes us with a big smile, stamp & keys to the refuge in one hand & a bottle of champagne in the other. Campaspe could learn something here perhaps??? Our refuge for the night is also the building used for preschool & after school care. Some children are still here until 6pm. We are to to help ourselves to the well stocked fridge, with soup, salads, vegetables, meat, milk, cheese, orange juice etc. Bread is also provided. Everything we need & more. The mayor's assistant also makes our reservation for tomorrow night. The Mayor himself calls in to have a chat & even goes out in his car to look for an overdue pilgrim. Service with a smile.
Day 28-Mardeuil to Champaubert via Montmort. 24.2km
Our trail starts with a climb up the white chalk hills, thru vineyards, steep, up. All is quiet apart from occasional agricultural machinery. The vines are being trimmed. Delightful views across the valleys, small champagne villages, row upon row of grape vines & a clear blue sky. We have a break in Moussy then up past the Eglise Charot, up past the lookout point, through the woods to Morangis where we enjoy our lunch under the shady branches of an ancient walnut tree. Our path later becomes more overgrown with thigh high grass. We arrive in Montmort-Lucy, past the beautiful chateau, just before 3pm. We sit at a bar near the town hall for a cold drink & call our host contact for tonight. She picks us up in her car
Day 23-25
Day 23-Rocroi to Signy-l'Abbaye 32+kms
We leave Rocroi crossing the ramparts of the old walled town travelling south. Quiet local roads, whispering fir trees, rustling oaks & beech. No other noises but birds, trees & the tap of walking poles. Undulating landscape, cows come to the fence to greet us as we walk by. Weather warm & sunny. We follow the scallop shell signs, through overgrown paths, woods & on a narrow space between 2 rows of barbed wire fencing a metre apart. Here we stay in a privat home. There is a Commonwealth War Grave in the cemetery but I can't see it when I look among the white crosses.
Day 24-Signy to Chateau-Porcien 26.5kms
Off along the road to Lalobbe, after first buying supplies for our journey at the local boulangerie. We pass through the small village if Wasigny with it's beautifully restored, very large market hall/place in the town square. We stop for lunch under a large walnut tree before taking the path through grass, between the fields of wheat. Just outside Hauteville we meet another pilgrim, Jo, from Belgium. Maize, golden barley, wheat, peas straight on towards the wind turbines which we pass between. A stamp for our pilgrim passport at the town hall and the code for the door at the municipal refuge. We will be 4 in a room just over 2 m wide x 4 m long. My bed is a fold out one which, when made up blocks the door to the bathroom. Washing hangs to dry on the fence of the school next door.
Day 25-Chateau-Porcien to Bazancourt 22km
We get our morning coffee at the bar where we had dinner last night but we provide our own food. Along farm roads, past a factory, through fields, gentle ups & downs, maize, beets, canola, wheat, barley, lucerne and even a field of opium poppies with no security. We enter the Champagne region but no grape vines just yet. We wait for the town hall to open at 3pm to get our stamp and the key to the refuge- through the green gate. Part of a community performing arts complex. The local restaurant is closed to we get supplies at the supermarket, make our dinner & have enough also for breakfast.
We leave Rocroi crossing the ramparts of the old walled town travelling south. Quiet local roads, whispering fir trees, rustling oaks & beech. No other noises but birds, trees & the tap of walking poles. Undulating landscape, cows come to the fence to greet us as we walk by. Weather warm & sunny. We follow the scallop shell signs, through overgrown paths, woods & on a narrow space between 2 rows of barbed wire fencing a metre apart. Here we stay in a privat home. There is a Commonwealth War Grave in the cemetery but I can't see it when I look among the white crosses.
Day 24-Signy to Chateau-Porcien 26.5kms
Off along the road to Lalobbe, after first buying supplies for our journey at the local boulangerie. We pass through the small village if Wasigny with it's beautifully restored, very large market hall/place in the town square. We stop for lunch under a large walnut tree before taking the path through grass, between the fields of wheat. Just outside Hauteville we meet another pilgrim, Jo, from Belgium. Maize, golden barley, wheat, peas straight on towards the wind turbines which we pass between. A stamp for our pilgrim passport at the town hall and the code for the door at the municipal refuge. We will be 4 in a room just over 2 m wide x 4 m long. My bed is a fold out one which, when made up blocks the door to the bathroom. Washing hangs to dry on the fence of the school next door.
Day 25-Chateau-Porcien to Bazancourt 22km
We get our morning coffee at the bar where we had dinner last night but we provide our own food. Along farm roads, past a factory, through fields, gentle ups & downs, maize, beets, canola, wheat, barley, lucerne and even a field of opium poppies with no security. We enter the Champagne region but no grape vines just yet. We wait for the town hall to open at 3pm to get our stamp and the key to the refuge- through the green gate. Part of a community performing arts complex. The local restaurant is closed to we get supplies at the supermarket, make our dinner & have enough also for breakfast.
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