Day 13-15
Day 13- Maastricht to Vise-16km
Left Max at the hostel where he headed off to the station and I started off upstream along the Maas, first across the bridge then along a path passing under govt buildings. Now with a new guide book - the Via Wallonia - a variation from the Via Mosana. Sometimes red shells on white and other times gold on blue symbols to follow. From here to St Severin the blue & gold are affixed by George Meurs who I later stay with. Today the kms fly by under my feet. There are cherry orchards, corn, maize & wheat. Around the 13km mark I cross into Belgium across an invisible line. Across the bridge in Vise to knock on the door of Pension Au Quai. Claire & Christian welcome me with a long cold drink sitting out in the garden. After dropping my luggage I head back across the bridge to enjoy a cool glass of rose with nibbles overlooking the river. Back at the pension around 5.30 Christian's son Philippe arrives & the refresents commence. Later other guests arrive, friends of the family and we enjoy a most convivial evening with a delicious meal served outside in the walled garden. The evening flows beautifully, with a mixture if Dutch & English. Finally to bed around 10pm in a delightful room with blackout curtains in the window overlooking the river.  The only noise that of the geese arguing on the riverbank below. Claire has made a booking for me in Angleur tomorrow night so I can rest easy knowing that is sorted.

Day 14 - Sat 7/6 - Vise to Angleur. 24kms
Eggs, bacon, yoghurt, bread, cheese, juice & coffee for breakfast. Some off road walking mixed with forest paths. A little field mouse sits in the middle of the footpath as I walk by. Up and down through forests & alongside the Julienne Brook for a few kms - very pleasant. Fields on one side, forest on the other. On the outskirts if Liege I see the first brass scallop shell in the footpath- a symbol of the Camino with which I am familiar from Spain. The route takes me along an island in the Meuse (Maas) river- passing under 5 bridges before a footbridge takes me back to the main land. I findy refuge for the night but as I was told not roar rive before 5pm and it is now only 3.15 I take a rest/nap on the church steps waiting for time to pass. George Meurs (82yo)is the warden of the refuge & in fact the owner, builder & inspiration for the refuge here. He has 6 units for students but one is dedicated to pilgrim accommodation. It can sleep 3-4 comfortably but tonight I am the only one. George cooked me dinner in his own home, sent me up the ladder to pick cherries from the tree in his back yard. A most interesting evening.

Day 15- Angleur to St Severin - 25kms
It's Sunday (Pinkster) & after a cooked breakfast Geirge sends me off pointing me towards the via Mosana. But, that is too long (at more than 30kms ) so I take the path along the river, through the industrial area. After 5kms it starts to rain, gently at first but then the heavens open & I am just a a roundabout where I have to change direction. I spy a flapping door and run towards it. A construction site toilet where I shelter as the thunder rolls, lightning flashes and I waitfor the 20 mins it takes for the storm cell to pass. Not only that but there is plenty of paper to dry myself off. Soon the sun comes out like there never was a storm. At one stage the trail takes me on a very overgrown path with blackberries, tall grass & nettles before reaching a muddy path alongside a filthy waterway. Uggghh!!
Uphill, steep, leaf littered ground, off road bikes, oak & beech trees, on road again up past  the castle of St Hubert to the village of Neuville en Condroz. Across the meadows, down past another castle to arrive at the round pond in front of the 12C (Romanesque) church of St Severin. There is a message in English on the door of the refuge inviting arriving pilgrims to make themselves at home & that at 7.30 the lady in the farmhouse next door will get us for dinner. I had not booked here as George had made a phone call in the morning before I left but got now answer. I assumed he had tried & got through later but that turned out not to be so. I made myself at home upstairs in the building attached to the church & hung my washing out to dry on the scaffolding at the end if the building. Later a German man with his son & daughter arrive & confirm they are the expected pilgrims. Nevertheless we all go over to the farmhouse at 7.30. Would you believe it. The table is set for 5. 3 other pilgrims, our hostess, Marie-Paul and me - the unexpected guest. We are treated to a delicious meal of home grown, home made vegetable soup, stuffed peppers, baby boiled potatoes followed by home grown rhubarb stewed with vanilla. All accompanied by elderberry spritzer. Blessed.