Belgium

Day 18-20

Day 18-Namur to Bois-Vallon (Profondeville) 20+kms
Buffet breakfast at the youth hostel then back into town, up through the citadelle - very steep stairs- through the parade ground, up again to the forest. Now we are 3 female pilgrims making our way along the scallop shell way. There are splendid views of Namur from the ramparts of the citadelle. The forest paths are muddy, slippery, lots of puddles & often squelchy thanks to the recent storms. Cool shady forests, long wet grass & much paved road. We watch the talented tradesmen laying the granite cobblestones, piece by piece, just like a jigsaw as they choose each stone to lay side by side. We ask for water from a house where we are directed to backtrack to find our accommodation for the night- Ingrid's B&B. A welcome awaits us. The sun is warm to dry the washing while we relax with a cool drink. Ingrid drives us back to the village for dinner- delicious local fare- salad of goat's cheese wrapped in finely sliced ham, followed by cherry clafoutis & a glass of rose. We walk the 25 mins back to Ingrid's & go early to bed.

Day 19- Profondeville to Dinant - 21km
We make a deviation direct to the Meuse river which we follow all day upstream to Dinant. Carla is having trouble with her knee/hip/back so we take it slowly. Boats come & go through the numerous locks. Some interesting houses but many looking rather delapidated. We cross a small stream rushing and tumbling to join the Meuse. On the hills above the river we see remains/ruins of castles & forts. We cross the Meuse at a lock then walk alongside through fields if canola with red poppies waving in the breeze- an old bike strapped to a tree & a graveyard for old tourist boats. We stay tonight at the Abbey Leffe where accommodation is very basic. We do have beds but - no bedding, no hot water, no shower, communal toilet room where we walk past the urinals to get to the toilets. We are sleeping upstairs and the bathroom facilities are down a very creaky wooden staircase on the ground floor. We share a communal evening meal with monks & other residents/ guests. Dinant had a bridge lined with brightly coloured saxophones, each with the name of a European country on its base. Max arrived just before dinner & will walk with me a few days.

Day 20 - Dinant to Niverlee 33kms - 9 hours
Cross the river at the lock then head up through the forest with muddy paths then later a younger forest of beech & birch. Through fields on paved roads then through another forest with slippery down hill tracks still wet from the recent rains. In Hastiere we enjoy a cold drink & short rest then get some bananas. & water from the supermarket. We criss cross over & under old railway lines whichever become our path. We climb gently for several kms, past the old railway station at Agimont village then cross a main road and find a farm selling glaces artisinale (ice creams). Lovely. The guide book has an error which temporarily puts us off track but Google soon sets us right. Up to the village of Romeree then down & up to Niverlee   Here we are staying with Theresa & Philippe. They are only expecting me but there is also room for Max. A lovely evening meal, glass if wine, great company ends an exhausting day.