Day 109- Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compestela - 20 kms - Wed 10/9
A nice early start for the final leg of my journey. I leave at 7 without breakfast but I know it is available not far down the track. I walk with a girl from Denmark and there are other pilgrims ahead and behind as we come to the forest. Which way to go? 3 paths & no signs but I have done this before so we have a laugh and follow a very pale indistinct yellow arrow along a forest track. Head torches creating dancing lights as we tramp, tramp, tramp beneath the eucalypts. Down and alongside a road then thru a tunnel and into the bright courtyard of the hotel at Amenal. Breakfast of toast, coffee & fresh OJ. Then it's up the hill, more eucalypts, past the airport runway where we drop down under the landing lights before climbing again to San Payo. It is a misty morning and we get a few spits of rain coming into Lavacolla, where I get a coffee. In years past this was the traditional washing place for pilgrims to get clean before entering Samtiago. Then a few more ups & downs as the long stream of pilgrims march on to their destination. From Monte de Gozo it is said you can see the steeple of the cathedral but I have yet to see that. The trees have grown & the landscape has changed. At Monte de Gozo a new pilgrim refuge was built a few years ago. It sleeps 500 pilgrims!!! Then through the outskirts, across a major road and the old city is in sight. Coming this way we enter through the Porte de Camino, following the brass scallop shells in the cobblestones. Up past old buildings then down the steps, turn left into Plaza Obradoiro. The cathedral is right there, shrouded in scaffolding as it undergoes restoration. I have mixed emotions being here in this special place. The numbers speak for themselves but it is still hard to comprehend that I actually walked 2543 kilometres in 109 days with only 4 rest days in that time. My next step is to visit the Pilgrim Office where I join a queue and half an hour later I am explaining to an Irish volunteer the reasons for my journey. I have 2 pilgrim credentials with a stamp for every day I walked. There is no empty place for Santiago but that's ok. She puts it on the map on the back. The final stamp of the Cathedral of Santiago. This year there is also another Certificate of Distance that I can get, apart from my Compostela so now I have 2. I spend some time then with the Dutch Friends of the Camino who have a welcome room right nearby. Now it's time to take the boots off and 'pilgrim watch'. We sit around watching other pilgrims arrive. Big hugs & smiles and calls of congratulations as familiar faces we have seen along the way complete their journey also.
My walking is completed but for many women in Ethiopia they are just starting their walk in the hope of being healed. If you have not already done so please make your donation now.
hamlinfistulafundraising.com/NolaVulling
Friday, 12 September 2014
Tuesday, 9 September 2014
Thankyou
I would like to say a very big thankyou to the many people who have been so generous in making a donation to the Catherine Hamlin hospital and midwife training centre in Ethiopia. If you have enjoyed reading this blog and would like to make a huge difference to some of the most marginalised women in the world please make your donation now.
Several pilgrims I have met along the way have made donations including 2 of my Irish mates I met in the last few days.
To those who have made donations on line recently many thanks for your generosity. Every dollar makes a difference.
www.hamlinfistulafundraising.com/NolaVulling
Several pilgrims I have met along the way have made donations including 2 of my Irish mates I met in the last few days.
To those who have made donations on line recently many thanks for your generosity. Every dollar makes a difference.
www.hamlinfistulafundraising.com/NolaVulling
Day 107-108 La Coruna
Day 107- Palas de Rei - Arzua 29.4km
Another awesome day with perfect walking weather. Cool start, then sunshine later. Past numerous horreos, rectangular buildings built above ground on pillars, usually stone ends & ventilated sides, used for storing grain/corn/ produce, free from vermin. Very typical for this area. Some are several metres long & very old. Rural Spain, maize/corn, hops, vegetable gardens. Then forests of oak, pine, chestnut & eucalypt. Aaah the smell of home. So appropriate for these last few days. Like being welcomed. Lots of pilgrims from many countries. Coffee stops are frequent now as little bars pop up every few kms. Past stone crosses, in the centre of a village, at a crossroad, or on top of a fence. Lots of ups & downs but nothing too strenuous. I couldn't get a bed where I had planned to stay at Ribadiso so another 3km brought me to Arzua. Here I catch up with the Irish guys I have seen a few times, as well as Tara from NY and Deb from Toronto. A great day. Only 2 women in our albergue tonight with about 16-18 men. But happy to say no snoring & no early risers.
Day 108- Arzua to O'Pedrouzo 20km Tue 9/9
Breakfast at the bar next door then off into the early morning mist. Dripping from the trees but no rain. Lots of pilgrims, tap tapping with their walking poles, lots of Spanish chatter, people striding by, heads down. We all have the same destination -Santiago. Most will not get there until tomorrow but many are determined to do it today so are very focused on their goal. Lots of ups & downs. We start with a climb of almost an hour, between stone walls, through eucalypt forests, across bridges & small streams. I have coffee at A Calle where 2 small puppies are running around between the tables & chairs. They are so cute. More eucalypts, more ups & downs then alongside a busy road into Pedrouzo. Not much of a town but plenty of places to eat. And now it's dinner time. Until tomorrow.
Another awesome day with perfect walking weather. Cool start, then sunshine later. Past numerous horreos, rectangular buildings built above ground on pillars, usually stone ends & ventilated sides, used for storing grain/corn/ produce, free from vermin. Very typical for this area. Some are several metres long & very old. Rural Spain, maize/corn, hops, vegetable gardens. Then forests of oak, pine, chestnut & eucalypt. Aaah the smell of home. So appropriate for these last few days. Like being welcomed. Lots of pilgrims from many countries. Coffee stops are frequent now as little bars pop up every few kms. Past stone crosses, in the centre of a village, at a crossroad, or on top of a fence. Lots of ups & downs but nothing too strenuous. I couldn't get a bed where I had planned to stay at Ribadiso so another 3km brought me to Arzua. Here I catch up with the Irish guys I have seen a few times, as well as Tara from NY and Deb from Toronto. A great day. Only 2 women in our albergue tonight with about 16-18 men. But happy to say no snoring & no early risers.
Day 108- Arzua to O'Pedrouzo 20km Tue 9/9
Breakfast at the bar next door then off into the early morning mist. Dripping from the trees but no rain. Lots of pilgrims, tap tapping with their walking poles, lots of Spanish chatter, people striding by, heads down. We all have the same destination -Santiago. Most will not get there until tomorrow but many are determined to do it today so are very focused on their goal. Lots of ups & downs. We start with a climb of almost an hour, between stone walls, through eucalypt forests, across bridges & small streams. I have coffee at A Calle where 2 small puppies are running around between the tables & chairs. They are so cute. More eucalypts, more ups & downs then alongside a busy road into Pedrouzo. Not much of a town but plenty of places to eat. And now it's dinner time. Until tomorrow.
Sunday, 7 September 2014
Day 106- Portomarin to Palas de Rei in the rain
Day 106- Portomarin to Palas de Rei - 26 km Sun 7/9
Last night I moved to a bunk as far from the door as possible & had a great sleep. I was the first one up at 10 to 7. A passing shower meant I tested my new rain poncho this morning. Slung over my backpack but open at the front as the climb soon warms me up after crossing the bridge. Through the dark forest to Gonzar for coffee & toast. Here I chat with a couple of young Sth African accountants from Johannesburg. We exchange email addresses and go on our way. At 10.30 it starts to rain. At first I seek shelter but it is not stopping so keep on. Then I share a barn with some cows and chat with the farmer who tells me "welcome to rainy Galicia". We laugh and I move on. This is absolutely ridiculous, hilarious & crazy. All these pilgrims walking in the rain. All sorts of people in their multicoloured rain gear and some with no protection at all. The rain does not let up for the rest of the day. At least the terrain is good for walking and not dangerous for this pilgrim with her unroadworthy boots. My feet are wet but my walking poles give me good grip and stability, even when I lend one to another pilgrim to negotiate what is now a stream of muddy water running over rocks in a narrow gully between a rock wall and grassy stuff on the other side. I use 1 pole and hold onto the rocks with the other hand as we straddle the stream of water. At the bottom I take a photo of the line of pilgrims following. It makes me laugh out loud. We look so silly. Grown up people walking in the rain, sloshing around in the mud. Hilarious. Finally it's into Palas de Rei. My new poncho which I bought in Burgos has served me well. Apart from my feet I and my backpack are warm and dry. I check into a new Albergue- Castro where I can have a bed in an 8 bed room, sharing with three other pilgrims. Great. For the first time when I tried to get into the new albergue San Marcos, opposite the church, I was told no go because they only had a room for 4 not 1. An interesting way of doing things. I guess they are only catering for groups.
Last night I moved to a bunk as far from the door as possible & had a great sleep. I was the first one up at 10 to 7. A passing shower meant I tested my new rain poncho this morning. Slung over my backpack but open at the front as the climb soon warms me up after crossing the bridge. Through the dark forest to Gonzar for coffee & toast. Here I chat with a couple of young Sth African accountants from Johannesburg. We exchange email addresses and go on our way. At 10.30 it starts to rain. At first I seek shelter but it is not stopping so keep on. Then I share a barn with some cows and chat with the farmer who tells me "welcome to rainy Galicia". We laugh and I move on. This is absolutely ridiculous, hilarious & crazy. All these pilgrims walking in the rain. All sorts of people in their multicoloured rain gear and some with no protection at all. The rain does not let up for the rest of the day. At least the terrain is good for walking and not dangerous for this pilgrim with her unroadworthy boots. My feet are wet but my walking poles give me good grip and stability, even when I lend one to another pilgrim to negotiate what is now a stream of muddy water running over rocks in a narrow gully between a rock wall and grassy stuff on the other side. I use 1 pole and hold onto the rocks with the other hand as we straddle the stream of water. At the bottom I take a photo of the line of pilgrims following. It makes me laugh out loud. We look so silly. Grown up people walking in the rain, sloshing around in the mud. Hilarious. Finally it's into Palas de Rei. My new poncho which I bought in Burgos has served me well. Apart from my feet I and my backpack are warm and dry. I check into a new Albergue- Castro where I can have a bed in an 8 bed room, sharing with three other pilgrims. Great. For the first time when I tried to get into the new albergue San Marcos, opposite the church, I was told no go because they only had a room for 4 not 1. An interesting way of doing things. I guess they are only catering for groups.
Day 103-105 Santiago beckons
Day 103- Trabadelo to Triacastela - 39km Thur 4/9
Two pilgrims get up at 4.30 which sort of determines my day. A cool start in the Valcarce valley as the route criss crosses the rio Valcarce several times. The Hotel Valcarce is lit up like a Christmas tree and shines like a beacon in the pre dawn darkness. I stop at Ambasmetas for breakfast, toast with Vegemite. Yum. Here in the valley a highway has been built on pylons probably 50m up above the small villages. So now instead of heavy transports going thru the village you can here them high above. In Herrerias a big friendly bull looks me in the eye then wanders off for his day in the meadow with his cows. Along the road for a bit before heading left gently down then up, climbing up & up to La Faba where I stop for a cold drink. Upwards for the next hour or so. Fabulous views across the valleys and the mountains shrouded in mist. Then the welcome wall of O'Cebreiro at 1330m, I've climbed 700 metres since starting this morning. The path goes up and then down again before rising to Alto San Roque at 1270m. Past wild dianthus, pretty in pink amongst the other wild flowers. Now the old km markers start counting down to Santiago. No longer accurate but an indication that the end of the walking is approaching. A pity they have been spoiled by graffiti. I give the albergue at Hospital de la Condesa a miss when I see the 4.30am risers waiting there. At Alto do Poio the wind is strong & cold so I continue until making Triacastela. Here I can get a single room in a pension. Oh bliss. A towel & sheets. Yay. A really great day.
Day 104- Triacastela to Sarria 19km
A nice short day is planned and it works out well. A start in the early morning mist hanging around the valley, but not cold. Thru San Xil where the small chapel is now an art space, open @ 8 in the morning. Through the middle of another farmyard at Montan, with liquid cow pats on the path & chickens scratching, roosters crowing, & a dog sleeping amongst the pilgrim traffic. More misty mountains, the scallop dominated fountain, stone fences, ancient trees & slate roofs on stone buildings. Trees are already starting to lose their leaves which flutter down around our feet. The way is up & down, sometimes more difficult than others. Church bells ring out through the mist, echoing around the valley as I descend into Sarria, past the 112km post. It is from here that many pilgrims start their journey to Santiago as in order to get a Compostela, pilgrims must prove they have walked 100kms. Later I meet a couple from Holland who were dropped off by their bus at 103km. In Sarria I check in to Pension Matias. A lovely single room tucked up amongst the slate roofs of the adjoining buildings in the old town.
Day 105- Sarria to Portomarin 23km
After a great buffet breakfast at Matias the way is up, past the market, setting up for the day. Great views over sleepy Sarria in the valley below. Then a very steep descent to cross a small stone medieval bridge, alongside then across the railway line on the rocky path, through forests it climbs steeply between the centuries old oak trees, gnarled, broad & shady. As the sun rises behind me it is clear this will be another beautiful day. After 2 hours a coffee stop where the farmer moves her cows alongside then across the road. Climbing between moss covered stone fences/walls, another stone cross, old stone buildings with slate roofs, some tumbling down. Out of the woods, thru Ferrerios, down the hill to Mirallis where another farming couple are moving their cows, straight down the middle of the road. It stops the traffics but not some rather silly pilgrims who just walk thru the middle of the herd. It's another long steep down to cross the rio Mino on the high bridge into Portomarin. Then up the steep stone steps on the other side and under the archway I turn left where I check in to Albergue Ferramenteiro. This albergue has beds for 130 pilgrims in one long room divided by curtains. It is immaculate and everything works. Here all the bunks are made up with their disposable bottom sheet & pillowcase. It almost looks like a hospital except they are bunk beds. The staff even wear long white tops. The view over the dammed river is just beautiful. A great meal at the Mirador restaurant later tops off another great day.
Two pilgrims get up at 4.30 which sort of determines my day. A cool start in the Valcarce valley as the route criss crosses the rio Valcarce several times. The Hotel Valcarce is lit up like a Christmas tree and shines like a beacon in the pre dawn darkness. I stop at Ambasmetas for breakfast, toast with Vegemite. Yum. Here in the valley a highway has been built on pylons probably 50m up above the small villages. So now instead of heavy transports going thru the village you can here them high above. In Herrerias a big friendly bull looks me in the eye then wanders off for his day in the meadow with his cows. Along the road for a bit before heading left gently down then up, climbing up & up to La Faba where I stop for a cold drink. Upwards for the next hour or so. Fabulous views across the valleys and the mountains shrouded in mist. Then the welcome wall of O'Cebreiro at 1330m, I've climbed 700 metres since starting this morning. The path goes up and then down again before rising to Alto San Roque at 1270m. Past wild dianthus, pretty in pink amongst the other wild flowers. Now the old km markers start counting down to Santiago. No longer accurate but an indication that the end of the walking is approaching. A pity they have been spoiled by graffiti. I give the albergue at Hospital de la Condesa a miss when I see the 4.30am risers waiting there. At Alto do Poio the wind is strong & cold so I continue until making Triacastela. Here I can get a single room in a pension. Oh bliss. A towel & sheets. Yay. A really great day.
Day 104- Triacastela to Sarria 19km
A nice short day is planned and it works out well. A start in the early morning mist hanging around the valley, but not cold. Thru San Xil where the small chapel is now an art space, open @ 8 in the morning. Through the middle of another farmyard at Montan, with liquid cow pats on the path & chickens scratching, roosters crowing, & a dog sleeping amongst the pilgrim traffic. More misty mountains, the scallop dominated fountain, stone fences, ancient trees & slate roofs on stone buildings. Trees are already starting to lose their leaves which flutter down around our feet. The way is up & down, sometimes more difficult than others. Church bells ring out through the mist, echoing around the valley as I descend into Sarria, past the 112km post. It is from here that many pilgrims start their journey to Santiago as in order to get a Compostela, pilgrims must prove they have walked 100kms. Later I meet a couple from Holland who were dropped off by their bus at 103km. In Sarria I check in to Pension Matias. A lovely single room tucked up amongst the slate roofs of the adjoining buildings in the old town.
Day 105- Sarria to Portomarin 23km
After a great buffet breakfast at Matias the way is up, past the market, setting up for the day. Great views over sleepy Sarria in the valley below. Then a very steep descent to cross a small stone medieval bridge, alongside then across the railway line on the rocky path, through forests it climbs steeply between the centuries old oak trees, gnarled, broad & shady. As the sun rises behind me it is clear this will be another beautiful day. After 2 hours a coffee stop where the farmer moves her cows alongside then across the road. Climbing between moss covered stone fences/walls, another stone cross, old stone buildings with slate roofs, some tumbling down. Out of the woods, thru Ferrerios, down the hill to Mirallis where another farming couple are moving their cows, straight down the middle of the road. It stops the traffics but not some rather silly pilgrims who just walk thru the middle of the herd. It's another long steep down to cross the rio Mino on the high bridge into Portomarin. Then up the steep stone steps on the other side and under the archway I turn left where I check in to Albergue Ferramenteiro. This albergue has beds for 130 pilgrims in one long room divided by curtains. It is immaculate and everything works. Here all the bunks are made up with their disposable bottom sheet & pillowcase. It almost looks like a hospital except they are bunk beds. The staff even wear long white tops. The view over the dammed river is just beautiful. A great meal at the Mirador restaurant later tops off another great day.
Friday, 5 September 2014
Day 100-102
Day 100- that's exciting. Murias de Rechivaldo to Foncebadon 22km
Today I climb into the Irago mountains which I have seen for a few days ahead of me. Initial walking is a little like the Flinders Ranges/outback SA. Lots of jet streams in the sky. Mostly on gravel paths alongside the road and beside stone walls. Coffee in El Ganso then back on the dusty path, below the power lines sizzling overhead then lots of uphill amongst the heather and loose stone. Sheep bells ring as they move up the hillsides. I choose the Druid Place to stay but eat at Monte Irago, opposite. Delicious paella served from a huge shallow pan. Yum
Day 101- Foncebadon to Ponferrada 26 km
First up to the tiny iron cross which is affixed to a tall wooden pole. Here pilgrims traditionally leave a stone or other memento from home. Early morning brings beautiful sunrise views over the mountains. The route today is difficult with lots of rock to cross as it goes down for a long way. Warm & sunny into Ponferrada where the albergue is huge. Not the best place to stay and definitely not somewhere I would recommend. Put it on the miss list. Play tourist & visit some churches and the Knights Templar castle.
Day 102- Ponferrada to Trabadelo. 33 km
A rather early wake up call when the girl on the bunk above takes a phone call at 5am. At least I get an early start. Thru the silent city which has very poor way marking. I walk a lot of today with Alex from Melbourne. Past numerous stone crosses, along dirt tracks, very dusty, thru vineyards, often stoney, ups & downs. The way climbs up after Cacabelos where all we have to walk on is the very edge of the road. After Pieros we can walk through vineyards which is much better & safer. Stunning views all round, up & down until we reach Villafranca de Bierzo. Straight thru, although actually it's anything but straight or flat. Across the little stone bridge then alongside the road again as Alex & I track on thru Pereje & into Trabadelo. That's it for me but Alex goes on. A long hot day & I'm glad to finish. There is a hot wind blowing and the temp is in the 30s even though we are deep in the Valcarce valley.
Today I climb into the Irago mountains which I have seen for a few days ahead of me. Initial walking is a little like the Flinders Ranges/outback SA. Lots of jet streams in the sky. Mostly on gravel paths alongside the road and beside stone walls. Coffee in El Ganso then back on the dusty path, below the power lines sizzling overhead then lots of uphill amongst the heather and loose stone. Sheep bells ring as they move up the hillsides. I choose the Druid Place to stay but eat at Monte Irago, opposite. Delicious paella served from a huge shallow pan. Yum
Day 101- Foncebadon to Ponferrada 26 km
First up to the tiny iron cross which is affixed to a tall wooden pole. Here pilgrims traditionally leave a stone or other memento from home. Early morning brings beautiful sunrise views over the mountains. The route today is difficult with lots of rock to cross as it goes down for a long way. Warm & sunny into Ponferrada where the albergue is huge. Not the best place to stay and definitely not somewhere I would recommend. Put it on the miss list. Play tourist & visit some churches and the Knights Templar castle.
Day 102- Ponferrada to Trabadelo. 33 km
A rather early wake up call when the girl on the bunk above takes a phone call at 5am. At least I get an early start. Thru the silent city which has very poor way marking. I walk a lot of today with Alex from Melbourne. Past numerous stone crosses, along dirt tracks, very dusty, thru vineyards, often stoney, ups & downs. The way climbs up after Cacabelos where all we have to walk on is the very edge of the road. After Pieros we can walk through vineyards which is much better & safer. Stunning views all round, up & down until we reach Villafranca de Bierzo. Straight thru, although actually it's anything but straight or flat. Across the little stone bridge then alongside the road again as Alex & I track on thru Pereje & into Trabadelo. That's it for me but Alex goes on. A long hot day & I'm glad to finish. There is a hot wind blowing and the temp is in the 30s even though we are deep in the Valcarce valley.
Sunday, 31 August 2014
Days 95-99 Across the meseta & beyond
I 'm going to combine a few days here to get up to date.
Day 95- Terradillos to El Burgo Ranero 31 km
Day 96- El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas 19.1km
Day 97- Mansilla to Leon 18.6 km
Day 98- Leon to San Martin del Camino 27km
Day 99- San Martin del Camino to Murias de Rechivaldo 29.3km
Lots of early mornings, walking in the dark then as the sun rises behind me the most beautiful colours in the sky, all around. The usual routine is to walk a few kms then stop for breakfast. Fresh OJ, coffee & toast or pastry. I have my tube of Vegemite so usually choose toast on which I can spread it. The weather has been warm & sunny but also often high cloud and light breezes. Good walking temps. Along the way there are many chapels, churches, often with storks' nests on the bell towers, stone bridges and concrete, above ground small v shaped irrigation channel with lots of leaks. I meet an American author and we chat for a while, then later a couple of Aussie women. We are all heading west to Santiago. The first couple of days were fairly straight but now there are more hills. Much has also been alongside roads. Trees have been planted alongside the path and provide very welcome shade from the afternoon sun. Both Mansilla & Leon have old city walls, much of which is still intact, up to 14m high and 3m thick. Very sturdy. In Leon I stay at the Hotel Isidoro which is behind the old city wall, part of the Pantheon building complex. Streets are paved with large river pebbles although I wonder if perhaps this part of Spain was once under water because those same rounded river pebbles are all over the pilgrim path as well as in the fields. Today I crossed one of the prettiest and longest arched bridges on the Camino, in Hospital de Orbigo with more than 20 arches. It has a lot of romantic history about knights jousting and unrequited love. After Hospital the way becomes more hilly. In the distance can be seen the Cantabrian mountains which draw closer every day. Tomorrow will be the first serious climb for some time. Santiago is now only a couple of weeks away. The days are changing as Autumn arrives.
Day 95- Terradillos to El Burgo Ranero 31 km
Day 96- El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas 19.1km
Day 97- Mansilla to Leon 18.6 km
Day 98- Leon to San Martin del Camino 27km
Day 99- San Martin del Camino to Murias de Rechivaldo 29.3km
Lots of early mornings, walking in the dark then as the sun rises behind me the most beautiful colours in the sky, all around. The usual routine is to walk a few kms then stop for breakfast. Fresh OJ, coffee & toast or pastry. I have my tube of Vegemite so usually choose toast on which I can spread it. The weather has been warm & sunny but also often high cloud and light breezes. Good walking temps. Along the way there are many chapels, churches, often with storks' nests on the bell towers, stone bridges and concrete, above ground small v shaped irrigation channel with lots of leaks. I meet an American author and we chat for a while, then later a couple of Aussie women. We are all heading west to Santiago. The first couple of days were fairly straight but now there are more hills. Much has also been alongside roads. Trees have been planted alongside the path and provide very welcome shade from the afternoon sun. Both Mansilla & Leon have old city walls, much of which is still intact, up to 14m high and 3m thick. Very sturdy. In Leon I stay at the Hotel Isidoro which is behind the old city wall, part of the Pantheon building complex. Streets are paved with large river pebbles although I wonder if perhaps this part of Spain was once under water because those same rounded river pebbles are all over the pilgrim path as well as in the fields. Today I crossed one of the prettiest and longest arched bridges on the Camino, in Hospital de Orbigo with more than 20 arches. It has a lot of romantic history about knights jousting and unrequited love. After Hospital the way becomes more hilly. In the distance can be seen the Cantabrian mountains which draw closer every day. Tomorrow will be the first serious climb for some time. Santiago is now only a couple of weeks away. The days are changing as Autumn arrives.
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